Mopar maniac 74

It does yellow a little over white but I don't notice it over solid colors. I usually only clear if I put decals on a model. As with everything try it over a spare piece to see if you like it.

Milo I use testors 1814 gloss clear enamel on anything with decals like race cars etc. It does not hurt the paint or wrinkle the decals. Model round up usually has in stock. Any cars not having large decals I usually just polish McGuire #7 then #3 then pledge polish.

Jeff, The hood you are talking about is the R/T hood Harts resins has it in 24th and 25th scale. The T/A challenger was built to promote dodge participation in SCCA trans am and the 340 six pack can only be found in that car with the fiberglass hood only You could get the 340 4bbl with R/T hood or any big block. Same rules for the shaker hood. This info is if you are recreating a specific day 1 replica. It is your model kit so if you just like the R/T hood better leave the 340 6 pack under it and call it a done deal.

Kind of embarrassed to admit this but a Pontiac fiero given to me as a gift. Never finished it and I didn't like the real car but it got me started in the hobby.

Not sure how technical you want to get but you said scratch build so a spare parts box radiator cut to approx intercooler size and styrene parts tree bent to the shape of the hoses. If you want to be more detailed measure the real diameters cross to scale and find solder the correct size. It bends easy and is already silver. Just a couple suggestions for you

Good information Steve and John Thank you

Steve. Goldman 1st thank you for communicating w us. 2nd appreciate all these great re releases. Can you tell us if the demon will have the automatic console or a floor shift 4 speed?

I have 2 answers for you. If you want to preserve your modeling history I would finish it as is. I have several I built as a kid and its a look how far I have improved type of thing. If you want it to match recent projects then use the advice above to strip and make new decals. Then build it to your current standards.

2 reasons I built replicas of my cars that I had in the past I wanted an extensive car collection and like others stated this is an affordable way to do it and they fit on a wall in the house

Bob, Great build especially the upholstery on the seat. If you enjoy the mopars and the salvino kit all his chrysler kits are pretty much the same. That's why the 2 piece chassis with pin holes to move the wheel base. Then he puts the different engine in it and wheels and here you go. Not sure about about other car makes in the 70s era because I only build the mopars. I do know his 80s kits are monogram kits w new decals.

Well the good news is peter did reply to me (thank you Peter). and he does have the molds. Unfortunately he doesn't have licensing from chrysler corp so I don't think we will be seeing them any time soon.

Joe, Hate to hear Atlantis maybe has them. They only seem to be interested in brand X on the car side but I sent them an e mail anyway. Guess there is always hope.

Wow Wonder if the revell molds exist anywhere so round 2 could get their hands on them. That body on a scavenged chassis with a blower or tunnel ram engine would make a nice pro street and you wouldn't need a hood.

Make yourself an elmers glue and water solution. Dab it under the decal and smooth out like you would a regular decal. Any excess glue will wash off with water. I have always had trouble with laquer clearcote lifting the edge of the decals. I use a testors enamel or if you are happy with the pledge result stop there.

I think I am getting way off the subject but as long as the kits are molded in white I can usually turn out a good product. Used to hate the kits molded in red or blue where no amount of primer would stop the bleed thru.