François

With the differential done, I'm slowly progressing back towards the front of the car. I did the rear brakes and started the transmission housing. It's composed of 3 parts. The tail housing, the bell housing and the shifter housing. Having restored this car for real, l have a ton of literature. One of these books (the tr6 maintenance book) is full of really nice hand made 3d drawings (remember that it dates back to the pre-computer era) and some just as nice cross section views. There's one of the transmission that I used to 3d model it. Combined with pictures from the net and measurements from my car, I was able to do a decent job of it. It's not finished but not to far either. I still have the complete shifter housing to do. On the hydra, I made a mecanism activated by the shifter to engage the rear wheels but it didn't work well. For this one, I would like to make the actual friction clutch and engage it using the shifter instead of the clutch pedal. Cross section from maintenance manual 3d model of transmission so far the transmission from my car after it was restored And the rear brakes

Thank you Bainford. A miniature working differential is actually quite common in the rc world (which I am not into). The difficulty here is to keep it to scale an to not oversize everything. It's relatively easy to do since, contrary to rc cars, my models are for show only so not subject to impacts and rough handling.

Yesterday I said that I would not be making a real differential, well I lied. I decided to try and see if it could work. So today, I designed the internal components that makes a differential do what it does which is to drive both wheels while permitting the wheels to rotate at different speeds. It's a beautiful feat of engineering invented back in 1827 by a French guy named Pecqueur. I also redid the half shafts with more accurate universal joints along with the drive shaft. I incorporated the small bearing (which I received today and boy, are they tiny) in the front hubs. I had to find slightly larger bearings for the differential, I went with 4mm id instead of the 3mm id used in the hubs. Redesigned half shafts Differential internal bits Working differential (in cad at least) 20251117_194827.mp4

I started this project stating that I wanted a running engine and drive train as I did on the Hydra. I would also like it to be a better design. The hydra motor broke, yes because the weak point was the crank but also because there was a lot of friction from the different rotating components. So I'm trying to reduce this friction by using ball bearings wherever possible. I'll have then at the rear hubs, inside the differentiel, the transmission and, if possible, the engine. I bought a bunch of 3mm id x 7mm od x 3mm thk bearings. With this in mind, I 3d modeled the rear drive train and differentiel today. It's not 100% finished but it's close. Inside the differentiel, I'll probably use the same setup as I used on the hydra which means it's not a real differentiel but rather a 90 deg gearbox. I also finished the trailing arms, I got them looking a lot more like the real ones now. Almost finished differentiel Trailing arm with drum and half shaft cross section of rear drive train with bearings in place (not final yet)

Unatural, it's actually for both reasons I'm looking. I already went through 1 LCD screen and ever since I changed it, I find that it doesn't print as good as it used to. I often tried to print at a thinner layer height (25um) but never got good results and frankly, my prints are fine at 50um. I know they could be better but like you said, at the scales I work with... l could really use a larger print volume though. I'm looking at the Uniformation GK3 16k with the T screw. Does anyone now this printer?

I've been busy 3d modeling the last 2 days. The frame is pretty much finished, all that is left to do is to split it in printable sections. Probably 3. I also started on the rear suspension, I have the lever shock done and am trying to do the swing arms. These are very complex parts with many planes and axes, not one being square or parallel to another. I'll figure it out eventually. The finished frame model compared to a real frame Rear suspension bits Vs real bits And an overall view Compared to the resl thing (not mine)

Hello Armando, very glad to see your finished model! You did a fine job of it too. Since we last spoke, I finished the Hydra Coupe and have started a new project. You can follow it here. it's a rather personnal project since I've owned such a car for close to 20 years. good luck on your next build

Dphipps, the magnet idea is intended exactly as you described it. Even if everything on my models work (from steering to motor to drive train) they are only for display and always on a stand. As for the printing, I use the Anycubic M5 resin printer. It's a 12k printer so the results are pretty good but I'm starting to look for something new. I see that there are 16k printers out there. We'll see...

Ok, so here's where I'm at. I test printed the drivers side suspension components along with the from portion of the frame. Everything went together fairly easily, didn't have to make many modifications. I did have to hide a secondary compression spring inside the shock absorber since the printed coil spring is too weak. I'll probably end up using real springs instead of the printed ones. I just need to find the correct size. Remember, this is only a mockup so nothing is sanded or finished. I just wanted to confirm that the geometry was ok. I also painted a wheel to see what it looks like but again, only a mockup. I didn't paint the ring yet since i'm out of chrome paint. I ordered a new type of chrome paint from Green Stuff, apparently, it's more touch resistant then the revell. I was able to confirm that using 2 magnets to hold the wheel in place is a good idea. Here are some pictures And some videos 20251110_145840.mp4 20251110_150258.mp4

Suspension test print seem 100% ok. I'll know for sure once everything is washed.

Probably, i did print some a few weeks ago for a 1/25 vega and they worked ok but again, it was just to try.

Sorry Messer but the grease fitting don't work. I did put grease on the rack before assembly. Before going further with the frame and rear suspension 3d modeling, I'm test printing the front suspension components. I'm even trying to print the coil spring. I don't expect it to work but I'm curious.

If only that was reason! Nope, just a dump typo. I repaired the typo and modified the P to look a bit more like the logo. the first sub assy is done, the rack and pinion. 20251107_140420.mp4

It was noted to me (thank you Messer) that I made a major typo on the tire. It's should be Pirelli, not Pirelle. Error fixed ! Sorry to all you Pirelli fans and to all english teachers.

I've been doing some printing test these past few days. I have a working rack and pinion with working rod ends. I still need to refine it here and there but it's close. And I've ordered a miniature steel universal joint (5$ on Temu) to replace the printed ones as it will probably be a weak point in the steering mecanism. All components in the rack and pinion And assembled Working rod end with rubber booth (the boot comes from an RC boat I think) I also printed a complete wheel assembly, I am very pleased with the result. I tested my magnet idea to hold the wheel to the rotor and it works very well. It will be a breeze to remove the wheels to show the suspension. All components in 1 wheel And assembled And the real one

Finished the wheels today and the front axel. I wanted to find an easy way to remove the wheels. My first idea was to do like i did with the Hydra, to use the center cap as a screw. But then I thought of another idea, magnets. I'll inbed 2 magnets in the each hubs and 2 in each wheels. I'll test it before going final with it. The finished wheel Vs the real one The magnet idea

So the calipers are finished. I added the rigid fluid line and the brake pads. I also started the rack and pinion. I'm aiming at a working rack but I've never modeled one before. It will be interesting to see if I can pull it off.

The front end is almost done. I added the disc, hubs, calipers, steering levers and a bunch of bolts. It's starting to look like something. I originally painted the calipers red but I have since repainted then blue to match the body color. The calipers on the model will also be bleu.

A bit more work was done on the front suspension and everything looks good so far. And ues Spex84, the madman is disassembling the car, but just a little bit. 20251028_200728.mp4

I'm slowly (very slowly) progressing with the frame modeling. It's very difficult to measure directly on my car since not much of the frame is visible. I removed the caliber and disc to better measure the front suspension turret but there's still alot of guess work. I'll be able to ajust the suspension components as I go along so in the end, I don't think it will matter all that much. So far And a real frame

Blueprint Do we know each other? I've had my car for 20 years so have seen many yellow TR6. Big Messer Have you followed my Hydra build?The 1/6 tr6 will be about the same length as my 1/12 Hydra Coupe so close to the same weight (probably a bit more). The hydra was all printed using a very basic resin and aside for the crankshaft, everything is holding up very good. One of the reasons I do these large models is to test the limits of what can be done with 3d printing. I do admit that the suspension parts would be solicitated if the model was left on it's wheels but, like on the hydra, the tr6 will be on a stand of some sort. This being said, I'll probably experiment with a resin that has better mecanical properties since I will need it for the crankshaft anyway.

Hi all I'm slowly starting the Tr6 project. I settled on the 1/6 scale so it will be a large model. First thing I did was to print the frame's 2d drawing I have at the correct scale. This is an original triumph drawing out of the maintenance manual. Here's the 2d paper print at 1/6 And with the 1/12 Hydra next to it for size comparisons. At 1/6 scale, the tr6 will be close to 26 inches long compared to 25 inches for the 1/12 hydra. So yeah, the tr6 is a small car, and the hydra a monster. It will be quite a challenge to figure out how to print the frame. I've started the frame, steel wheel and tire. I still have a lot of work to do on the frame and some on the tire. I have a friend who owns a antique British car garage, I'll check with him and see if I could borrow some used suspension parts. It would be alot easier to draw the parts if I have them in my hand rather than measuring directly off the car.

Absmiami and Kensar, thank you both for the invite but Atlanta is a long way from home. Especially with a fragile model. I think I'll stay closer to home.

Yes of course working lights, l forgot that. Front and rear plus maybe the flashers. I was looking at car this morning and realized it won't be an easy projet. On the hydra car, aside from the body, I pretty much invented everything. It will be quite different with the tr6, I'll have to represent the reality as much as possible. I should start modeling the frame soon, so expect a few pictures shortly.

Hello everyone, I've finally decided what my next project will be. I'll be doing a 1/6 or 1/8 scale of my Triumph Tr6. The tr6 is a very small car, at 155 inches long by 58 inches wide. So at 1/6 scale, the model would be 25.8 inches x 9.6 inches. At 1/8, it would be 19 3/8 x 7 1/4. So, scale is TBD. There is no kit for this car but a 1/18 diecast is available and I do have it. As with the Hydra, I'll be 3d modeling the car first by measuring the one I have in the garage (and the diecast when necessary) and 3d printing it. Here are my goals for this one. -fonctional engine (crank, pistons, camshaft, rockers...) -driven rear wheels from engine -working steering -opening hood, trunk lid and doors -working side windows (that will be new for me) -working soft top -full leather interior (naturally) -and probably many other things that I'm not thinking of. It may seem like a boring project to some of you (especially after the hydra) but this car means a lot to me. I'm not sure how many more years I'll keep it so I want to scale it now while I still have it. And it will always be a reminder of the fun I had driving it. So I hope you will be as interested in this new project as you were with the Bentley and Hydra . Being in my garage, It's the best reference car l could wish for.