François

Unatural, I used anycubic's waterwash resin for the entire model. I probably should have used a stronger resin for the crank but it is what it is. The biggest error I did was the gearmotor location. My original design had the gearmotor located at the transmission and was to drive the ring gear which is attached to the crank and is a much sturdier area but it didn't fit. So that's when I decided to hide it in the blower and drive everything from the front on the crank. This brought on two problems, first I had a slight misaligment issue between the gearmotor and crank so I needed to put in a universal joint shaft. Second, all the torq needed to rotate everything was taken by front of the crank which was weaker than the rear. I tried to repair but wasn't able to so now the crank is glued in place. But like I said in my previous post, I have it on video. I've learned alot with this build, if I ever do another motor, I won't make the same mistake.

So, the model is complete. The base is done, the lights are connected, all is well. Yes, all is well... until it wasn't. While trying to turn the motor, the crank broke... again. So now the car is in the repair shop. I removed the body, wheels, seats and anything else the is not glued. I temporarely modified the support rack to hold the car upside down and started to analyse the situation. It's not good. The crank shaft broke in 2 places. I'm not sure it's repaireble but I'll try. Best scenario is the I fix everything, worst will be that I glue the broken parts in place and nothing move again. The middle ground would be to link the remaining crank with the gear motor via a straight shaft (no pistons attached to this portion). This would permit rotation of 10 out of 16 pistons plus all of the valve train. I'll see what is possible but I'm not overly confident. I do have a video showing the motor running so at least I have that to prove I was able to pull it off. Here's the situation as of today. Body removed whatever was removable removed Car flip over on temporary cradle Broken crankshaft wish me luck!!

Glad I could help. As for the batteries, since my ref car was built in 2019, it only had one battery. I had done the 2 battery set up but decided to make it as my ref car. This is what it looked like

Armando, here's what I found out. As you probably know, most of what I did on this model was not in the kit but rather based on my ref car and the pictures of it that I had. So some features are accurate (the ones I could find pictures of) and some were left to my imagination (when I didn't have any info). And sometimes, I had to do certain thing in order to accommodate my own selfish need. First, the easy to explain one. The 2 fuel lines coming from the fuel pump are hooked up to the 2 brass tubings that are under the carburators. Next, what comes out of the carburators. You have 2 brass tubings circled in bleu (the ones hooked up to the fuel lines) and the other one, circled in red, would be the throttle rod. Let me know if these are the three tubes you are talking about. Next, the battery cables. This is where it get a bit complicated. The 2 battery cables are made to look like the are connected to the starter motor but in reality, they stop at the jonction circled in red The cables connected to the starter are actually real electrical wires hooked up to a miniature gearmotor hidden inside the started housing (that is part of my own selfish need). So the cables you see running alongside the fuel lines are the gearmotor wires and they go all the way to rear of the car and are connected to the control box. Now I imagine that you are not as crazy as me and don't have a hidden gearmotor to energize so from the battery you could go directly to the starter. I'm not sure if this is how it should be but that's how I would do it. Please let me know if this info helps and if you need into other information. I don't know if you have followed my current project but here is the link just in case. It even crazier then the bentley. Good luck with your be bentley ans sent some pictures. 1/12 scale Hydra coupe scratch built

Hello Armando, Thank you very much for your interest in my Bentley project. I have to check before answering your questions, I really don't remember so I will get back to you. In the meantime, you could check this link which is my photo album of this project from start to finish, it might help. Bentley blower build album

Ok so the base is painted, I raise the car a full inche for a better view of the underside and I but in a grayish floor (a bit like in the bentley's display). And, I don't like it. I don't like it for a 3 reasons. First, it's too big, second, it's too big and third, it's too big. I'm a 'builds first and ask questions later' kinda guy, and the first question I asked myself after completing the didplay was 'where am I going to put this thing'. I didn't have an answer. So in comes plan B. I'll redo the base but much narrower, it has to fit on a 12 inche deep shelf. Instead of overhead lighting, l'll install 4 spot lights on the floor. The grayish cardboard floor will be replaced by a mini graveled surface, I might even try to make some tire tracks in the gravel. Red Skull will still be at the controls, and lastly, there will be no cover as the glare in the plexiglass really bothers me. I wanted to display the car in 'Marvelesque' environment but I think I went overboard with the idea. Here's the completed display case (the too big one). I'll try to find a place for it somewhere, a lot of work went into it and it would be a shame to get rid of it. And here's the proposed plan B

Thank you everyone. The base is done, just need to paint it flat black. And to decide what type of floor to but in. I also installed the quick connect for the lights.

I'm almost done with the display top. Just need to install the top plexiglass. I'm vefy pleased with the result as everything came together nicely and as planned. Wiring the spot lights went as planned also. I still need to make the base and to install all the quick connect plugs. Here are a few pictures of the display top. And with the car

Big John, the lenses are 3d printed in clear resin.

I've been busy with the printer these last few days. All display case parts are printed. It took a total of 4 separate prints at approximately 12hrs per print but every part came out perfect. Next step will be to assemble a few sub assemblies, primer and paint then final assembly and wiring of the 6 spotlights. It wasn't easy to figure out a way to bring all the wires to one corner but I think I found a neat way to do it. I'm waiting for some 1/8 inch thick plexiglass to do the front and sides, the top will be made with 1/32 inch thick plexiglass because it needs to be curved. All printed parts (52 total) needed to make the case. The base will be made from wood shaped to look like an Hbeam structure. Finished spot lights

Thank you Dragline. But if I may, I would like to clarify a few things. Anybody (the average Joe) can effectively print good quality parts with a high res printer (which have been around for more than 3 years) but, If you don't possess the key ingredients which are a good design background and a profound knowledge of 3d modeling with a cad system, you will have to print other people's creations which may not always be what you want. So yes, 3d printing is very impressive and can open up a hole new way to do miniature modeling but it's really not as easy as one may think and definitely not for everyone.

I worked a bit on the enclosure design today. I'm not 100% satisfied but not very far either. I want it to be a bit theatrical, red skull being such a drama queen. I think the shape a gave the enclosure, combined with the theater spot lights gives it a bit of a stage look. The structure is somewhat reminiscent of some structures seen in the Captain America movie. Here's what it looks like so far. The cones represents the light beam although I dought that once finished, the spot lights will give much light. I was thinking of 3 spot lights along the front top rail shining down and 3 along the rear lower rail shining up. The way I made the spot lights, the can be oriented in any direction.

I started to tinker with the spot lights today. Not quite there yet but not that far. I was able to find an old instruction booklet with a few dimensions on this old stage lamp so, althought I printed it a bit larger than 1/12 (closer to 1/8) scale, the proportions are ok. The goal My lamp so far

Yes it does

The control console is all done, and it was a pain to do. A lot of wiring and let's say wiring is not my specialty. Hopefully, everything will work as planned once hooked up to the car. I tested the circuits with a small light buld as I went along and for now, it all works. I might do a bit of weathering eventually. A lot of wires Red and his switchs Working bleu cube 20250616_205345.mp4 General location of console in relation to the model

Thank you Bugatti fan. Not sure what the next one will be yet, I might take a little break. But I still need to do the display case for this one first. The top cover for the control console is finished complete with 2 levers to control the car lights and cubes plus 2 handwheels for controlling the motor and display lighting. Speaking of the display lighting, I found 2 types old theater spot lights. Both could be free standing or mounted on the display structure. Maybe 1 spot per corner aimed at the model? TBD... console cover Old theater spot lights, l like both styles but I think the second one if more "Marvelish" in a doomsday/death ray kinda way. Any thoughts/comments welcomed

I printed all the parts for the control console set up, should turn out good. Test fit before paint Potentionmeters and switchs in place Test fit after paint

Thank you everyone, much appreciated. I was asked to take a few pictures of the Hydra next to my other models. They are all 1/12 scale! The hydra is a beast.

Well, it is done. Took me 11 months but it is done. And a reminder of the goal To view the finished album Hydra coupe final gallery

Thank you everyone. Mattilacken, inventor is effectively not very well suited for these kind of shapes. I've been using it for many many years to design machines, so manly squarish parts. The body on this project proved to be very challenging and quite frankly, I had my doughts at first. Here's s print screen wirh tge left side bar showing the steps I used to model the basic fender. Many more steps were needed to properly define the mating edge between the fender and body but it gives you and idea.

Yes, the idea I have is to sit the model on the yellow rack on a sheet of glass and to install a mirror at an angle under the glass. I think that the angled mirror will give a better view. I need to test this before because tge angle would be small.

Well, the car itself is almost done. Just need to install the exhaust pipes to conclude this portion of this project. I've started the design of the control panel where the red skull figurine will be. I couldn't find a 3d modeled red skull that could be opened in Inventor (the model I used to print is a mesh model so to heavy and complicated to use) but I found another model that will do the job for now. And I'm slowly modeling the display case. Here are a few pictures of the almost completed car. I'll take proper pictures shortly. The control panel with the faux red skull And the display so far

I'm done with the figurine. It's my first try at something like this but I think it came out good.

The red skull figurine holds a cube in is right hand behind is back. It's the same cube that I but in the thingy in the trunk. I thought it would be fun to have it glow by Inserting a pico led in it. So I printed the hand in clear resin, made an access hole from the wrist to the cube and inserted the led inside. I painted the glove black and the cube a translucide bleu. The wires go up the arm, into the torso, down the right leg and out under the right foot. Looks kinda neat. Here's a picture of what I think is CG image of the back side of the figurine with the glowing cube. Here's mine

Yesterday, my son asked me if I could print a large dragon for him and his budys for their dungeon and dragon game. He gave me the file and after about 7hrs of printing time, I had a complete and highly detailed dragon. This gave me the idea that I could maybe find a printable file of the red skull caracter that could be set in the display case. After about 5 minutes of search, I found a file for 5$. I had to scale it down a bit, the actor is 6ft 2in so I scaled it down by 33%. It came out great ! Just need to paint it. Here's the dragon And here's red skull