PhilipLeblanc

Nice stand for painting. I just use my wife's old cake stand and some film. It's easy to spin the car in any direction while spraying the paint.

Nice stand for painting. I just use my wife's old cake stand and some film. It's easy to spin the car in any direction while spraying the paint.

Agree all these aspects should be specified in the rules. If not, then you can do it if it's not clearly stated that it's forbidden.

I drive a new Volvo XC90 now, and I really like it way more than the VW Touareg I used to have. It was great for my "drive around the countryside all day" job, but the XC90 just feels more luxurious for the city, too, and the ride is very smooth. It's also got all these tech features that work very well for automated cruising when I'm stuck in traffic. I ended up selling the Touareg at an auction, btw, which was the better choice for getting a fair price as quickly as possible so I could fund the Volvo. You can look through https://carauctionsusa.net/car-auctions/dealers/ to see for yourself why it's less hassle than trying to sell it yourself online or dealing with loads of buyers. Anyway, I respect both cars, but I certainly prefer my new one.

In my opinion, if your model kit doesn't include a specific part to prop the hood open, then using an alternative like a wire or toothpick might be viewed as adding or modifying parts. Personally, I think this could lead to your model being disqualified from the Out-of-the-Box category. It's worth noting, though, that rules can vary greatly from one competition to another or between different organizing groups.

Awesome work! You definitely have a talent for vintage cars.

Awesome job! Great color choice! I'm thinking of buying the same car model but in black. Looks like I'm gonna be busy for a while.

You usually need to ask the owner to take a few pictures for you. At exhibitions, they usually aren't allowed to do something like this.

It's usually not a good idea to glue leather when it's still wet. The water can stop the glue from sticking well, making the bond weak. Make sure the leather is completely dry before you glue it. Also, make sure to use the right kind of glue that works well with leather, because not all glues are the same in how strong they hold or last on leather.

I just saw your post. I think you got me wrong. I mean this car model in real life. Well, personally, for me, it's important to see a car in real life before making a mini version of it. It helps me make it more realistic. That's why I'm pretty sure that the chances of seeing this Bently are pretty low. I once saw this car at a car exhibition, but it was way before I became into car modeling. Now I need to have a look again. But yours look fabulous!

I also heard about this. But I've never seen it (in real life, at least). Looks like Crysler is not a very popular model where I live. But I saw a bunch of details for this car and wanted to make a small model of it. At least it's in my plans.

From what I understand, car makers in the 1980s, including Chrysler, used a consistent protective layer on the bottom of cars instead of spraying the body's color over a primer like they did with older models. This protective layer was usually black or dark gray and helped protect the car from rust and stuff kicked up from the road. This information could be useful for making car models more realistic.

Awesome work! Now update us when you paint them! I'm sure it will look great!

Wow! That's all I can say. I love the attention to detail and how you make each part of this car look so realistic. It even looks like this car is a bit old, but have been taken good care of. One guy who's also in car modeling calls this process 'artificial aging.'

That seems easy. Well, when I do something, I always struggle to do the interior. I love it when everything looks so detailed. But I struggle to make everything so realistic. I always screw the interior.