Bernard Kron

Thanx again guys! Someone on another forum suggested some outdoor shots in the hopes of showing off the pearl to better advantage. These were taken in bright sunlight with either a black or a white backdrop. It didn't seem to make a big difference in the pearl but some of the details came out sharper.

Great to see the magnificent monster in paint. As always with your builds, speed never sacrifices quality, it's just the result of a sure and steady hand! Will you be foiling the fins on the fenders and roof?

This is gonna be such a supremely elegant build! But then so was the 1:1! The proportions are so totally right in both. Can't wait to see more, more, more...

Gracias, mi amigo!

Great stuff! Those wheels are killer. What are the fronts? They really pop!

Let's see your undies! Very cool idea. Here are some of mine…

Thanx to everyone for the extremely kind comments!! :lol: Very much appreciated! I'm glad you all dig it. I actually worried about the color combo, thinking it was perhaps too plain, but I think it was leaving all that chrome on - it really sold the show car angle. I usually tend to strip most of the chrome off and do the Metalizer thing. I'm glad I resisted the temptation! Yeah, I agree. It's the collateral damage from an extremely bad allergy I have to CA. Doing the little bitty pieces thing is difficult without the proper adhesive. The fuel lines are something doable because all it is is sticking wires in holes, but the levers required for a decent throttle linkage remain a problem without CA. I've found some alternative adhesives that help. I plan on experimenting with very small styrene bits to make the levers. Also metal bits with some of the most recent adhesives I've found. The problem is that nothing I've found is as thin, strong and transparent as CA...

I dig the thoroughly modern look of this build - breaks all the "traditional" rules. I especially like the motor and the underslung appearance of the chassis rails in front of the firewall. :D

Lil' Pearl - Chopped & Channeled '32 Ford Tudor (More pictures below) I started with a Jimmy Flintstone Revell '32 Rat Rod Sedan resin body shell. Based on the old Orange Crate altered sedan racer and not the current release, it required a scratchbuilt frame. Here are the particulars: Body: Jimmy Flintstone Revell '32 Rat Rod Sedan resin Grill Shell: Model Car Garage 4" chop resin with p/e grill Chassis: Scratchbuilt frame rails based on '32 Ford profile, z'd in rear with AMT '29 Ford Roadster front crossmember and Revell '32 Ford center crossmember. Motor: Hemi from Revell '32 Ford 5-window with Carter AFB carburetors from the AMT Competition Parts Pack Pontiac V8. Headers from Replicas & Miniatures of Maryland (mastered by Lyle Willits). Suspension: Modified Revell '32 Ford 5-window front & rear, airbags removed, monoleaf front spring, and shortened hairpins. Interior: Scratchbuilt with '40 Ford style dashboard and steering wheel from Revell '32 Ford 5-window. Lights: From Revell '32 Ford 5-window. Tires: Modelhaus T-100A Fronts, Modelhaus T-130C Rears. Wheels: Fronts - Winfield "Terra Thrust" from AMT '25 Ford roadster. Rears - Pseudo Cragars from AMT '39-'40 Ford sedan. Paint: Body – White Duplicolor primer, Duplicolor Wimbledon White base, Tamiya TS-45 Pearl White and Krylon Clear. Frame – Duplicolor Dark Toreador Red over gold. Interior – Seats & main surfaces are Duplicolor Wimbledon White; trim & dashboard are Duplicolor Dark Toreador Red over gold. Detailed pictures and discussion of the build can be found here: http://www.modelcars...showtopic=34695 Thanx for lookin' B.

All done! I have to say this has been one of the most satisfying and enjoyable builds yet for me. In no small part due to the encouragement and comments you have all given me along the way. For which, Thanx! So here's one last picture, the first time the car has been shown complete with it's Model Car Garage 4" chop p/e grill and low mounted headlights. All the "beauty shots" of the whole car from a multitude of angles can be found Under Glass here: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=36156 Thanx for following along, B.

Thanx everyone. The kind words are very much appreciated. The chassis seemed to become an end in itself. But now it's gonna get buried under the body. The interior, too, will soon vanish behind tiny slit windows. So here is a picture of the interior floor area before it disappears: I've begun final assembly, and, as usual for me, it's a bit of a battle. The usual failed glue joints, parts that need to be clearanced, etc. Nothing life threatening but I did break one of the wishbones. Fortunately I have a spare... Hopefully things will start to smooth out. Next time I post it'll probably be Under Glass! Thanx for lookin', B.

Yeah the Tamiya pearl white is pretty translucent and really shows the undercoat. It really pops over pure white. I also tried it over poilshed Testors Metalizer Buffing Aluminum Plate. The effect is a really irridescent metallic grey pearl. Very cool!

Wow, so many neat and tidy workbenches (and equally clean builds). I'm in full battle mode trying to finish my chopped and channeled Deuce Tudor. I promise to clean up as soon as I've got it done - maybe later today...

Thanx Bill! No, I didn't know that and I did polish the pearl layer before applying the clear. Makes sense that rubbing down the particles might mute the effect. I'll have to experiment a bit to see what it will tolerate (if anything...).

Thanx to everyone for the extremely kind words! Lucky you! I;d be going over there a bunch if they were in my neck of the woods.

Thanx Mike! That's always the problem (...or the solution...) with a model. A lot of the detail work you put into it seems to disappear. I just got the interior panels, dashboard and steering wheel glued into the body, and almost all of it will vanish behind the tiny slit windows! So here are a coupla shots before they go under tomorrow during final assembly: Thanx Alyn! Officially, according to Jimmy Flinstone, this is a "rat rod" body, but as soon as I shot some paint on the frame rails I knew I would go for the shiny chrome and paint look!

The '29 A Roadster and the '32 Roadster are significantly different in several areas, ther result being a different flavor when built up as hot rods. The key differences are in the rear deck, the cowl and the bottom of the body shell. In addition the frame's of the two cars are very different. The cowl area: The 29A has a curved character line infront of the dow which leads to a curved cowl that tapers inwards to a hood which is significantly narrower than the width of the body at the wihdshield. The Deuce has no character line or significant taper. The rear deck: The rear deck of the 29 A is actually very similar in shape and dimensions to the Deuce but but lacks the sculpted character lines and has a simple straight lower valance which is the bottom of the body at the rear. The lower edge of the Deuce's rear is raised to clear the fuel tank which was moved to the rear from it's position in the cowl (over the driver's legs!) of the Model A. Also the 29 A has s dip below the edge of the cabin area to meet the rear deck, whereaqs the Deuce's rear deck is essentially on the same level as the cabin edge. The lower edge of the body shell: The 29A's lower body edge is flat from front to rear. The Deuce's lower edge curves upwards towards the front to conform to the shape of the Deuce's frame railes and the curved lower edge of the Deuce's hood sides (the Model A's hoods sides have straight lower edges). The is significant when adapting the A Roadster shell to Deuce rails, the classic hot rod roadster combination. Chassis differences: Finally, the stock Model Chassis is far lighter, simpler and weaker than the Deuces. It is narrower and designed to sit under the body shell, rather than out at the body edges as seen on the Deuce. The result is that a fenderless highboy '29 A on stock A rails lacks the classic highboy look. I doubt that these are all the differences but in building various models of these cars these are the ones that jumped out at me. Here are some pictures for comparison: '29 A on Deuce rails with Deuce grill shell: '29 A Highboy on stock A rails (Pre-war style): '32 Highboy, contemporary/traditional style:

I remember seeing this over on the Modeler's Haven board. I really like it. Between the color and the cool period details it's got a genuine 50's custom vibe straight out of the "little books".

Thanx guys! I'm glad you are diggin' it. This is a really fun build for me. I guess fenderless rods are my personal sweet spot… I've got the motor completed and the chassis and suspension fully assembled. The kit four-barrels on the hemi from the Revell 5-window Deuce have always looked too small and flat to me. I used the Carters from the AMT Competition Parts Pack. They look much better! Now all that's left is assembling the body and interior and dropping it on these rails. Here are some pics. Thanx for lookin' B.

Thanx Iggy! Back at the workbench at last after returning from a two week road trip. I've been at it off and on for the past week or so and have made some decent progress. I got the interior parts fabricated. The headliner, side panels and a small panel at the rear will all be glued directly to the interior of the body. The panel that covers the rear half of the frame will be glued to the chassis rails. It's made in two pieces to fit around the gas tank. The bottom surfaces of these pieces are finished in Testors Metalizer Buffable Aluminum Plate to contrast with the chassis. The quilted material is Plastruct No. 91539 1/8 inch square tile cut at a 45 degree angle. Plastruct No. 91511 HO scale Corrugated Rib Roof cut into strips was used to make the contrasting trim. The door handles and window winders are from Replicas & Miniatures of Maryland. The '40 Ford style dashboard and steering wheel and the shifter are all from the Revell '32 Ford 5-window. The seats are of unknown origin, from a box of early 60's era custom car seats and interior bits I bought at a model car show. Colors are Duplicolor Ivory White for the interior surfaces and floor, Duplicolor Wimbledon White for the quilted trim and seating surfaces, and Duplicolor Dark Toreador Red over Gold (same as the chassis) for the trim pieces and seat backs. The body is also finished out and fully painted now. Starting with PastiKote White Primer, I shot 2 coats of Duplicolor Wimbledon White followed by 2 coast of Tamiya TS-45 Pear White and 3 coats of Krylon Clear. I polished each layer of color before proceeding to the next to assure maximum gloss. The final clear was also polished. Despite this the pearlescence of the Tamiya TS-45 is fairly subtle, much finer than Testors pearls I have used and more subdued than I would have liked. Perhaps it's a result of the Wimbledon White base. Here are a couple of pictures: I'm almost ready for final assembly with only some detailing of the motor left to do. Thanx for lookin', B.

I just saw this thread and by happy coincidence I shot some Tamiya Pearl White TS-45 over Duplicolor Wimbledon White this afternoon. The primer is Plasti-kote White Primer and there are two coats of Krylon clear over the whole deal. The TS-45 adds a bluish white cast to the warm cream white color of Wimbledon White. However, the Wimbledon White seems to mute the pearlescent effect a bit vs. shooting over a bright white primer. The paint has to cure some before I polish it. I'm hoping the added gloss will bring back some more pearl effect. Here's a picture which reproduces the overall color fairly well:

The addition of the rear drive system is really starting to make the connection with the vibe of the flic. :D Is that a hubcap you used for the "drive nacel"?

My all-time, straight-up favorite drag car, bar none, period.... Beautiful chassis work, Shane. I'm sure you'll capture the stunning simplicity and elegance of this super-efficient winning-machine.

Learning something with every new section. I wondered how you were smoothing your shapes since you seemed to be using the polygonal lasso. The key is the separate transparent layer that allows you to impose more controlled shapes like the ellipse when you're editing your initial basic shape. Thanx again for this insight!

I finally caught up to part four. As a beginner/intermediate user of P-shop, thanx for this opportunity to see a skilled hand at work, fully exploting the many tools and functions of this great program.