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Bernard Kron

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Everything posted by Bernard Kron

  1. We have plastic! The build is gradually exiting the virtual world. I’ve got the chassis and backend painted and assembled and most of the interior bits installed. I found an old set of resin Ardun heads in my stash (from another supplier and rougher than RepMin stuff) and began building up a RepMin block. Glad I did because setting and installing the rear end correctly was impossible without it. The block took a fair amount of cutting and trimming to fit. I also discovered that I needed to construct a small fairing in front of the body shell to cover the firewall and footwell area. I did that in sheet aluminum. It’s smaller than the 1:1 and not quite so visible. Next step is to fool around with the front suspension and continue work on the Ardun. I also need to shorten the rear axle some to get the rear wheels and slicks from the Tony Nancy kit to set in closer to the frame. Tons of scratch building and kitbashing on this build. The MPC Ramchargers FED kit might be slightly underscale. Everything from other 1/25 kits all seem to be just a tiny bit large… Here are some pics. The first one is the now traditional Photoshop mockup, this time consisting only of a front wheel and roll hoop pasted in to the actual, real body, engine and chassis! So far the stance and overall look are holding up pretty well. The other two shots are just to prove I am truly entering the world of plastic once and for all… Thanx for lookin’ B.
  2. We have plastic! The build is gradually exiting the virtual world. I’ve got the chassis and backend painted and assembled and most of the interior bits installed. I found an old set of resin Ardun heads in my stash (from another supplier and rougher than RepMin stuff) and began building up a RepMin block. Glad I did because setting and installing the rear end correctly was impossible without it. The block took a fair amount of cutting and trimming to fit. I also discovered that I needed to construct a small fairing in front of the body shell to cover the firewall and footwell area. I did that in sheet aluminum. It’s smaller than the 1:1 and not quite so visible. Next step is to fool around with the front suspension and continue work on the Ardun. I also need to shorten the rear axle some to get the rear wheels and slicks from the Tony Nancy kit to set in closer to the frame. Tons of scratch building and kitbashing on this build. The MPC Ramchargers FED kit might be slightly underscale. Everything from other 1/25 kits all seem to be just a tiny bit large… Here are some pics. The first one is the now traditional Photoshop mockup, this time consisting only of a front wheel and roll hoop pasted in to the actual, real body, engine and chassis! So far the stance and overall look are holding up pretty well. The other two shots are just to prove I am truly entering the world of plastic once and for all… Thanx for lookin’ B.
  3. I've used both the circular saw blades meant to mount in a dremel: and the regular type which I mount in a handle as I would a #11 blade, the latter from Model Car Garage: The disc blades take some getting used to in order to get a controlled straight cut but are very quick and effective. As Scott pointed out RESPECT THEM!!! I swear by the fine photo etch straight saw blades. They come in various shapes for getting into small speces and for engaving fine lines. There just what's called for in order to remove the minimum of plastic from your cuts. In both cases, if you bend them throw them away!
  4. They are! http://resinslinger.webs.com/reference.htm
  5. Got the frame cut today. My friend’s suggestions worked great and are remarkably subtle. I removed the stock axle mounting brackets and installed new ones of styrene sheet. The axle location is now immediately below where it was before, about one axle housing width lower. I then cut about two razor saw thicknesses out of the top tube at the firewall junction and carefully bent the frame to rejoin them. Although you have to look hard to see any differences when comparing the two frames the chassis is now tucked up neatly inside the body with a nice amount of roll bar showing. Here’s a comparison of the stock Ramchargers frame and the modified one. The red outline in the bottom image is the modified frame laid over the stock one: Here’s a shot of the Tony Nancy kit body mounted on the modified frame with the CLF engine, rear tire and front end images pasted in with Photoshop: Now on to chassis assembly and bodywork. Thanx for lookin’, B.
  6. Got the frame cut today. My friend’s suggestions worked great and are remarkably subtle. I removed the stock axle mounting brackets and installed new ones of styrene sheet. The axle location is now immediately below where it was before, about one axle housing width lower. I then cut about two razor saw thicknesses out of the top tube at the firewall junction and carefully bent the frame to rejoin them. Although you have to look hard to see any differences when comparing the two frames the chassis is now tucked up neatly inside the body with a nice amount of roll bar showing. Here’s a comparison of the stock Ramchargers frame and the modified one. The red outline in the bottom image is the modified frame laid over the stock one: Here’s a shot of the Tony Nancy kit body mounted on the modified frame with the CLF engine, rear tire and front end images pasted in with Photoshop: Now on to chassis assembly and bodywork. Thanx for lookin’, B.
  7. Wow! That's a very nice build. Love the detail colors, too. Are you gonna show us more pics?
  8. For just the basic tank go to Early Years Resin. I have gotten one and it provides the basic bones I need. It's vacuum formed styrene and is closer to 1/24th scale than 1/25th. I also bought their tires and wheels on the same page and they are quite nice looking. Here's the link: http://earlyyearsresin.webs.com/lsrparts.htm
  9. Those are all really nice clean builds. I think everybody seeing them will have their favorites. Personally I'm partial to the Charger and the Tony Nancy 22 Jr. Dragster (from the Revell Tony Nancy double dragster kit). The finish on the GTO is very nice too. Keep on buildin' and keep on showin'!
  10. Thanx guys! Definitely navigating uncharted waters here... Quick update. A modeling friend on the TRaK board suggested a small angle cut on the Ramchargers chassis might do the trick. It would be right behind the firewall vertical tube. I mocked it up in P-shop, and with a little more liberty on the "tribute" side (full set back on the engine) it comes out likes this: Time to start cutttin'! B.
  11. Quick update. A modeling friend on the TRaK board suggested a small angle cut on the Ramchargers chassis might do the trick. It would be right behind the firewall vertical tube. I mocked it up in P-shop, and with a little more liberty on the "tribute" side (full set back on the engine) it comes out likes this: Time to start cutttin'! B.
  12. Thanx Mike! If I’m not mistaken we may be the only non-door slammers who have shown up so far. Have I got that right? Well I’ve made some “progress†on this build. Actually more like two steps forward and one step back. The Tony Nancy Competition Roadster body comes in three pieces, left and right main body halves and a turtle deck. I want to avoid visible seams and also needed to have a complete body for trial fit to the chassis so I glued all three pieces together with styrene reinforcement under the seam along the body halves to provide when I sand and fill the seams later. The next step was to construct a chassis. The chassis on the 1:1 is a Woody Gilmore “flexi†frame so I thought I would use the Woody flexi frame in the MPC Ramchargers FED kit. The suspension and front of the frame looked almost identical to the CLF car. I built up the frame and then mocked up the body, making sure the bottom of the shell was aligned at the firewall with the bottom of the frame, just like on the CLF car. Then I took a profile digital photo of the mockup using tires from the Tony Nancy kit. I noticed that the Ramchargers tires were considerably wider than those shown on the 1:1. Here’s the original picture: I then took the picture and stripped out everything but the car: Lastly I laid in this shot over the original side view of the 1:1. I made sure to match the bottom of the bodies and the overall size of the body and tires. Here’s the result: As you can see, starting rearward from the firewall area, the Ramchargers frame sits much lower than the frame Woody built for the CLF car. I suspect the driver sits much higher up in the CLF car and that the chassis kicks up at angle from the firewall. In addition the Ramchargers’ overall wheelbase is about 12-13†longer. And lastly the firewall on the Ramchargers car sits further back implying that the CLF car either was running an in-out box or had a length of driveshaft to sit the engine forward. The Ramchargers car was state of the art for its day and ran a slider clutch and no transmission. The bottom line is that with next to no additional data on the CLF car I’m flying blind trying to figure out what’s happening underneath the bodywork. It would take massive butchering of the Ramchargers frame to come up with something that matched the side view picture of the CLF car. I’ve decided to proceed according to my original plan by using the frames from the Tony Nancy double kit and build a tribute to the CLF car rather than an exact replica while trying to stay as close to it as possible but allowing for the limitations of the skills and materials I possess. Next step, combining the rear end of the Tony Nancy Roadster frame with parts of the Tony Nancy Dragster chassis to stretch the wheelbase out as close to the 1:1 as possible. Thanx for lookin’, B.
  13. Well I’ve made some “progress†on this build. Actually more like two steps forward and one step back. The Tony Nancy Competition Roadster body comes in three pieces, left and right main body halves and a turtle deck. I want to avoid visible seams and also needed to have a complete body for trial fit to the chassis so I glued all three pieces together with styrene reinforcement under the seam along the body halves to provide when I sand and fill the seams later. The next step was to construct a chassis. The chassis on the 1:1 is a Woody Gilmore “flexi†frame so I thought I would use the Woody flexi frame in the MPC Ramchargers FED kit. The suspension and front of the frame looked almost identical to the CLF car. I built up the frame and then mocked up the body, making sure the bottom of the shell was aligned at the firewall with the bottom of the frame, just like on the CLF car. Then I took a profile digital photo of the mockup using tires from the Tony Nancy kit. I noticed that the Ramchargers tires were considerably wider than those shown on the 1:1. Here’s the original picture: I then took the picture and stripped out everything but the car: Lastly I laid in this shot over the original side view of the 1:1. I made sure to match the bottom of the bodies and the overall size of the body and tires. Here’s the result: As you can see, starting rearward from the firewall area, the Ramchargers frame sits much lower than the frame Woody built for the CLF car. I suspect the driver sits much higher up in the CLF car and that the chassis kicks up at angle from the firewall. In addition the Ramchargers’ overall wheelbase is about 12-13†longer. And lastly the firewall on the Ramchargers car sits further back implying that the CLF car either was running an in-out box or had a length of driveshaft to sit the engine forward. The Ramchargers car was state of the art for its day and ran a slider clutch and no transmission. The bottom line is that with next to no additional data on the CLF car I’m flying blind trying to figure out what’s happening underneath the bodywork. It would take massive butchering of the Ramchargers frame to come up with something that matched the side view picture of the CLF car. I’ve decided to proceed according to my original plan by using the frames from the Tony Nancy double kit and build a tribute to the CLF car rather than an exact replica while trying to stay as close to it as possible but allowing for the limitations of the skills and materials I possess. Next step, combining the rear end of the Tony Nancy Roadster frame with parts of the Tony Nancy Dragster chassis to stretch the wheelbase out as close to the 1:1 as possible. Thanx for lookin’, B.
  14. Factory stock, huh? Can't wait for the first pics!
  15. Note: The Lions Dragstrip conmmunity build started by 3men2s can be found under Drag Racing Models ( http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19929 ). This is my entry and I'm just getting started. I noticed that the Drag Racing Models forum doesn't get many hits so I'll be posting my progress both under the "Lions Dragstrip Open" thread and over here under "On The Workbench". My first build pictures should be coming up in a day or two. Thanx for lookin' B. OK, I'm putting my oar in. The long pole right now is that I need a Replicas & Miniatures Co. of Maryland Ardun head conversion kit (part no. DD-16) ASAP if I'm gonna get this baby done by 12/31! If anyone has one they can spare I'll gladly replace it the moment I receive mine from Norm! Here's the scoop: This is the Clarkson, Ledbetter and Friend Ardun powered competition roadster. I first saw it on page 102 of 50 Years of Rod & Custom. I've collected other information on it but it's a pretty obscure car. Here's the CLF mill: Plans are to use the body from the Tony Nancy comp roadster and the Ramchargers FED frame with the steering converted to external mount. There are also body conversions to consider revolving around the parachute shroud and a body extension forward of the fiberglas T shell. BTW, I would give my first born for a clear copy of the logo on the cowl so I can make a decal! Here are some more pics of this car. I think it's drop-dead gorgeous and only hope I can do it justice!
  16. OK, I'm putting my oar in. The long pole right now is that I need a Replicas & Minitures Co. of Maryland Ardun head conversion kit (part no. DD-16) ASAP if I'm gonna get this baby done by 12/31! If anyone has one they can spare I'll gladly replace it the moment I receive mine from Norm! Here's the scoop: This is the Clarkson, Ledbetter and Friend Ardun powered competition roadster. I first saw it on page 102 of 50 Years of Rod & Custom. I've collected other information on it but it's a pretty obscure car. Here's the CLF mill: Plans are to use the body from the Tony Nancy comp roadster and either a stretched Tony Nancy chassis or the Ramchargers FED frame with the steering converted to external mount. Each has its pros and cons. There are also body conversions to consider revolving around the parachute shroud and a body extension forward of the fiberglas T shell. BTW, I would give my first born for a clear copy of the logo on the cowl so I can make a decal! Here are some more pics of this car. I think it's drop-dead gorgeous and only hope I can do it justice!
  17. Picture at bottom of page 1...
  18. I use these all the time: (Thanx to Bob Black and his incredible DPMCC forum where this pic is posted and to Lyle Willits who took the picture)
  19. Very cool "military modeling". I especially like the front blower drive on the Offy (?) and the high turtle deck look.
  20. Thanx! Actually I don't use an airbrush. The larger pieces, or where I need a very even surface, are sprayed using Testors Metallizer rattle cans. The smaller bits, despite Testors' statement to the contrary, are finished using Metallizer in the small jars with a brush. They say it's for airbrush only, but it flows on with a brush just fine. One tip, though. The "buffable" Metallizers can be polished to a high sheen using a fine cloth or tissue paper (I use facial tissue). However, if you don't let it dry thoroughly it can wear through rather easily. I find that it's necessary to apply a primer, then spray a coat of Metallizer and let it dry for a couple of hours, then apply a second coat and let it dry overnight. Then it polishes up very nicely although you must remember to rub very gently. The scoop and valve covers on this build are done in Buffable Plate Aluminum and the blower is done in Buffable Burnt Metal, all primered, painted and polished as described. Great stuff!
  21. As a fan of the whole FED era this build pushes all my buttons. So very, very cool. The initial moves on the chassis are grrrrrreat! Love the two yokes at the rear. Nice touch. Based on your previous builds I'm sure you'll be keepin' it clean, keepin' it funky and keepin' it real. Gonna love following along on this one for sure...
  22. Promises to be another great "hole in the head" build! Keep drillin' them holes!
  23. Thanx again everyone. I knew there was something about the colors of the interior that "spoke to me"! I mainly did those colors to contrast with the exterior. Probably would have made more sense to stick with black and grey... Mainly this build was all about respecting the stance and proportions of the basic kit. I just felt that all the kit bling was just too "noisy" and I was trying to focus in on the the basic DNA of the '41 Willys gasser/street rod thing...
  24. Very nice indeed!!
  25. I thought I'd briefly comment on how important "View New Posts" is to the MCM Forum experience. It allows me to review what's new without preselecting according to things like whether it's a truck model or a hot rod or a building technique, a completed build or a W.I.P., a rant or a rave, or the latest news about contests or the 1:1 world (or the beloved Real or Model ). It's all there in front of me summarizing what's happened since my last visit. It's the critical difference between the MCM forum and every other model car forum I visit. I'm convinced it's a key factor as to why many of us consider this forum superior to most. What do you think? How do you first navigate when get here? Do you go to a specific forum or do you click on "View New Posts" like me?
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