Bernard Kron

Thanx Raul. The Parts Box Nailhead probably won't make it here in time but it sure will make a powerful weapon in reserve in case I screw up on the Ivo conversion! (And if I don't screw up it will make a powerful weapon in reserve for another build... or a parts swap!) I need to get the engine built and located so I can start working on the firewall and interior. I also need it to finalize the location and mounting of the grill shell. It's always a highly interdependent process, isn't it? As regards the tires the problem is that those are probably accurate 1/25 scale 16" wheels from the Revell '49 kit. So most tires have an i.d. that's too small. I have no recollection at this point what the tires I am using came from, front or rear. I've got Lots of Firestones (the cool skinny ones with the ribbed tread and the Firestone script), quite a few of which came from your parts box . They make admirable front tires but the rears, as Dennis points out, are really where the problem lies. I must admit that whereas I think the wheels are just fine, the tires do bug me, too. I'll have to think about it some more. Maybe it's Dremel time!

Hi Dennis, I'm glad that cheapo acrylic worked out for you. I'm also glad I warned you about how many coats it would take! That stuff's pretty hopeless in that regard. But is creates a deep, super-saturated effect that I haven't found with anything else. And I think that brushing it on actually improves the look on upholstery and carpeting. Can't wait to see the completed build. I predict it will be uniquely Old School in way we haven't really seen before. You've really sweated the details on achieving that "suddenly it's 1948" feeling. Most hot rods from that immediate postwar period have an understated look to them that was never again repeated. More often than not rodders from that era had neither the money nor the inclination to do much more than some liberal chroming of engine and suspension parts. I'm betting your build will capture that aesthetic very well indeed. Next stop - Under Glass! B. P.S. Don't forget to show us the undercarriage details. That was a highlight of the early part of this build!

Thanx Dennis. Aw c’mon, start another one… Unfortunately the rear tires will gave to stay as is. I simply can't find anything else that fits those rims that aren't the same width and diameter as the fronts. That's why these were always my mockup wheels. But I've been outvoted! Now here’s more than you’ll ever want to know about 1/25 nailheads (although I’m sure I’m leaving lots of other stuff out…). I'm probably going to build the Nailhead from one of the 4 Tommy Ivo Showboat engines I got. I bought the Revell Showboat kit strictly as a source for those beautifully detailed motors. So far I've used one on a rail I built last year: Unfortunately what you get is essentially a shortblock with a nicely detailed Hilborn injection setup and really nice injector stacks. The oil pans have 45 degree slanted bottoms to make up for the angled mount of the motors in the drag car. For this build I made a new bottom for the pan but didn't need to do anything else. But there's no bellhousing, transmission, accessory drive, belts, pulleys, etc. So... In the wonderful world of aftermarket parts I got this l;ittle item: Beautifully cast by Norm Veber at Replicas and Miniatures Co. of Maryland, it's a re-pop of the oil pan, transmission, accessory drive and shift linkage from an old Revell Parts Pack Nailhead which itself used the block and injection from the Showboat. BTW, this item is NOT listed in Norms regular catalog. You have to ask… And... no drive pulleys and belts, generator, or carburetor manifold. For this I am using the parts that can be found in the AMT '40 Ford Sedan Delivery kit (You can also find it in the Coca Cola '40 Ford coupe variant). This has a complete nailhead including block-hugger headers if you were planning on using it in a more confined area. There are several other kits that offer Nailheads with various variations in terms of carburetion, valve covers, spark plug wire shields, etc., mainly various AMT 60's Buicks. The reason I'm not planning on using the AMT nailhead is the detailing on the block and heads is a bit soft. And finally there's this item from The Parts Box in Australia: This is the full monte as it were. I've ordered one today but I'm want to keep on building this guy so I'm probably going the Ivo route. At 18.00 AUD (about 14.50USD) it's about the price of a source kit for an AMT nailhead and less than a Showboat kit on e-bay (if you can score one). However they have a 25.00 AUD minimum order and shipping is about another 10.00 USD so it's best to have need some other of their cool stuff if ordering from them. I know you are a confirmed kit basher so go to Bob Black's awesome DPMCC instruction sheet resource (http://public.fotki.com/drasticplasticsmcc/instruction_sheetsh/instruction_sheets/ ) and search the AMT section for the 40 Fords and various Buicks. Or you can be like me and help support the artisans of the aftermarket...

Thanx everyone. For some reason whenever I use these wheels they're a huge hit. People really like them. They're actually my mockup wheels and tires. Up to now they've never actually made it onto a build. They're the chrome wheels off the Revell '49 Merc with red painted centers and '40 Ford caps. I guess this time they're staying! The mill will be pretty traditional, but it won't be a Flattie. I've settled on a Buick Nailhead with 3 '97's and a set of Lime Fire Headers from The Parts Box ( http://www.thepartsbox.com/ ). Unfortunately I've "misplaced" the set I have so I've ordered another set. Hopefully I'll find the missing set while I'm building the engine. No harm in having another set. You never can have too many Lime Fire headers for your Buick Nailheads I always say (really, I always say that...).

Thanx everyone! While I'm pretty sure I'm keeping the purple frame the pea green plastic goes. It might finish up being green but not pea green ! And, oh yeah... I guess I'm staying with these wheels! The stance is now set. This involved installing the front and rear suspension, gluing all the internal panels and bracing into place, especially the rear brace that locates the back end of the frame since it determines the rear ride height and, along with the firewall, sets the amount and rake of the channel. I also got started on cleaning up the chop. The car is now more raked than it was and doesn’t drag its hindquarters the way it did in the mockup. The grill is the Model Car Garage 6†chop Deuce shell with p/e grill. Here are some shots. Thanx for lookin’

First off, welcome to the MCM board. I hope we can see more of your great modeling! These are three superb models. They are exceptional replicas based on this historic photo. I really recommend that folks go out to your Fotki for the additional pics. I especially like the realistic sheen you get to the paint, not too polished, like a race car should be. The slightly raised tape numbers on the 'Vette are terrific. How did you do that? And the chassis shots of the 250TR are a real treat. Great detailing. The modified D-Type is surprisingly pretty with its lengthened hood. And the supporting reference photos of the 1:1s reveal just how successful you were at capturing the essence of these cars in you models. Bravo!

I don't know if anyone's noticed the number of builds you've posted lately, both old and new, but there's a definite "look" (style) that's emerging and it's great! All your builds have this wonderfully balanced, "settled" look, really unified within themselves. This one may have been a 10 hour build but you knew just what you were after and, once again, you nailed it. Another winner you got there, Bob! Bravo!

I've never heard it put any better...

Another “I need to start one more build like a whole in the head†project but I was so taken with the re-released ’30 5-window I had to get on it. The little coupe just screamed chopped and channeled at me. A real East-Coast style 50’s ride. The frame is from the AMT Phantom Vicky and it fits perfectly. The Phantom Vicky kit is a treasure trove of ultra-cool parts. I buy the pre-painted kits at swap meets and on sale at my LHS because they seem to be quite common and are always mega-cheap, probably because they’re so ugly. I’m replacing the kit IFS with a resin dropped piece from Early Years Resin. I’ll probably leave the rear suspension as is. The top is chopped approx. 4†all around and the channel job is about 4†as well. The rear end will probably come up slightly when I lock in the stance. I plan to use a chopped Deuce grill so that the top of the shell lines up with the cowl without scraping the ground. The engine will be either a tri-carb Nailhead or a Hemi so I can use the cool headers that come in the Phantom Vicky kit. If I can I’d like to keep the stock firewall. Color is up in the air. I’m very tempted to keep the pre-painted frame as is. I’m thinking perhaps a metallic green to go with the purple rails. Here is a Scotch-taped mock up. Thanx for lookin’.

It's too nice a build not to nail the paint. You might try some of the hobby metallics like from Testors or Tamiya. Sometimes they're coarse enough to work as metalflakes. I use Duplicolor metallics but they're very fine and work well as candy apple base coats. Probably too fine for a scale metalflake, though. Whatever you decide I'm sure it wuill be fine 'cause the overall build will show you the way...

The original was beautiful and the model you made lets that beauty shine through. Love all the little surface details. Your client should be very pleased with your exquisite work. I know you were frustrated witrh this project during the build process. How does it appear to you now?

The front end sounds good, in keeping with the molded in look of the rear. Filled in grill intakes on '59's always look cool. Regarding the paint, IMHO the problem with something like Duplicolor Metalspecks is that as a metalflake it doesn't scale well down to 1/25. The flakes look gigantic. (It's even worse when photographed, especially in sunlight or flash.) You might want to try more ordinary metallics with a finer flake. A few test shots will tell the tale. Just my 2 cents worth, which probably ain't worth much...

This build's really fresh , especially the wrap-around molded in skirts and the overall sculpted look. The stance, now that you've brought the rear end down a little more, is spot on! What are your plans for the grille, if any? Any thoughts on paint?

Really nice engine on this build. And great detailing on the basic Garlits chassis. Those last pictures of the complete car show a really sweet little Fuel Coupe. Your friend must be very pleased!

Thanx Scott! That's kind of how this build has been guiding me. I think it started with the re-finished Torg-Thrusts, then the downdraft Webers and removing the stock fuel tank, and suddenly I'm painting it in Old School white and stripes! In my mind I can see this thing on the street, though, as a totally amazing weekend ride. But, maybe not. Maybe there are sponsor decals and a sheet aluminum interior in my little builds future... Stranger things have happened! It's great fun to speculate on this concept, isn't it? Maybe the racing scene would have taken a whole other direction if guys like Troutman & Barnes had built this kind of road racer! Certainly, looking at Pete Brock's '46 it was in the air in Southern California at the time. Car modeling is a powerful tool to re-set the Wayback Machine... As much as I would love to see what you come up with developing this theme, I'm sure I speak for everyone when I say we all would like to see you finish up the awesome Landspeed Vette first. I for one one can't wait to see you get back to that beautiful body design you made as much as I've thoroughly enjoyed the stunning chassis work!

I often use the iinstruction sheet section of the DPMCC site for reference and for making purchasing decisions. I discovered it two years ago when I first started building again. It has saved me countless hours of frustration and heartache. Thanx Bob! I'll check the wanted list to see if I've gotten anything that can be used. Most of what I have so far is pretty common and more than likely was purchased thanks to what I saw at DPMCC!!! There are lots of other very useful parts to the DPMCC site, including an aftermarket parts reference area. I recommend folks check DPMCC out and perhaps consider contributing to the effort!

That you certainly did, Mike! ... It's a definite contrast to what I'm in the middle of, being a good example of a contemporary Pro Touring ride. I guess I'd better remove the "Pro Touring" tag from my title, huh? Nice mesh pattern. Where does it come from? I also like the simple tailight treatment...

Thanx Joe. But I dunno about Greased Lightning and the Brock convertible. Well... they are both white and recognizably '46 Ford convertibles!

I’ve definitely neglected this one but now I'm finally back to it. The detailing on the motor is a major concern. I’m moving very slowly. I’ve decided to stick with the downdraft Webers but the fuel lines , connectors and other engine stuff is new to me so I’m sure that will be the long pole in the tent. In the meantime I finished the bodywork and shot the body with Duplicolor Wimbledon White (a kind of cream white) and striped the body using Pactra Racing Blue trim tape. This clinched the look on the car. It is now totally retro with this classic 50’s Cunningham racing colors scheme. With the stripes in place I'm now really glad I sectioned the rolled front pan to bring it in line with the nose of the hood. It really tightened things up. Here are a coupla pics: This whole build has had an odd familiarity to it. Somewhere in the back of my mind there was an image of a classic custom I had seen in the “little magazines†when I was growing up. I finally remembered it. Here it is, from the pages of Rod & Custom, the Pete Brock ’46 Ford Convertible. If the name Pete Brock seems familiar it’s because he designed the Daytona Cobra coupe! Next up is more work on the motor and a start on the interior which will have racing buckets, a roll cage, and a 50’s Mille Miglia/Mexican Road Race style spare tire mounting where the rear seat used to be. With two or three other builds going at the same time this one will continue to move slowly but steadily. Thanx for lookin’!

The bottom line in all of this is to "follow the money". That means the ultimate players in all of this are CVC Partners, the private equity group that holds the commercial rights to FIA sanctioned F1 for the next 90+ years. A rival series would be devastating to their multi-billion dollar investment. They desperately need the big marquis names like Ferrari, McLaren, BMW, etc. in the immediate future to keep the cash flowing going. They couldn't survive any sort of split and reorganization because any reduction in revenue would endanger the interest payments they must make on the bonds they hold. They Know Max Must Go, and increasingly they are questioning the relevance of Bernie who no longer seems to be able to control Max. On the other hand The FIA Must Stay because that's who CVC holds the commercial rights with. So, for this reason, the Vataanen candidacy matters because he represents a viable alternative to Max. My own opinion is that this whole melodrama around Max is nonsense, probably the result of a serious case of mental instability on Mosley's part as he heads for the exits. His attempt to create a divide between the national automobile clubs who make up the FIA and the large automobile manufacturers who are represented by FOTA is a weak hand and will come to nothing. The FIA needs the money it gets from running the rules and race organization side of F1, CVC needs the money it gets from the commercial side of F1, and the racers need every penny they can get to keep on racing. To this last point, make no mistake, people like Ross Brawn, Ron Dennis and Martin Whitmarsh at McLaren, Ferrari's Luca di Montezemolo and Stefano Domenicali, Red Bull's Christian Horner and Adrian Newey, Flavio Briatore, Bob Bell and Pat Symonds at Renault, and BMW's Mario Theissen and Willy Rampf, are all racers to their very core, having spent most of their lives in the sport. One way or another they will go racing, whatever it takes, But they are deadly serious about keeping F1 as the very pinnacle of motorsport and have no intention of seeing it relegated to a mere spec car series. So pay not attention to all this arm waving. CVC have been working diligently behind the scenes. They brokered the deal between the FIA and FOTA the other week and they have no intention of letting Max Mosley or anyone else screw things up now. But if I'm wrong and the whole thing really does blow up and the FOTA teams go off to form their own series without CVC then a lot more people than just Max Mosley are crazy! Follow the money...

Glad they worked out for you. Isn't it great to have such a huge selection of shades for virtually no money. That stuff is almost always on sale for 59 cents but I decided to "under-promise and over-deliver". As you no doubt have noticed the lack of covering ability is a real issue with this paint so I would assume the primer color will be a factor in the final shade. I know in my case I was never really able to totally neutralize the effect of the dark gray Duplicolor primer I had used. So, if you like the color of your test swatches then I would use a primer that approximates the shade of the test material you painted on. For example since you painted onto white plastic then I would use white primer. The main thing is that the primer gives the plastic surface some tooth for the paint to adhere to. Regarding the tissue, I used facial tissue ("Kleenex" type). I also sometimes use cotton swabs ("Q-tips" - ain't brand names grand?). Either will knock some of the nap down on the flat paint and give it a more semi-gloss look. Just rub very gently until you get the sheen you're looking for. If you over do it you can always put down another layer of paint. Gosh knows it's cheap enough! One thing that has not worked for me is semi-gloss acrylic. It's just too glossy. It works fine for engine and chassis details to help differentiate similarly colored parts or areas, but I don't particularly like it for upholstery.

Skyway Model Shop ( http://www.skywaymodel.com/ ) has the largest selection of model car kits in the area, including many vintage and hard to find ones. They also have a very good paint and supplies section and a small selection of aftermarket stuff. They are associated with the Puget Sound Auto Modelers Association (PSAMA), the local club. Another excellent resource is the Southcenter Hobbytown who probably have the largest supplies and tools selection in the area and a large and extensive automobile model inventory. Here's their info (they have no webpage): Hobbytown USA Parkway Plaza South 17774 Southcenter Parkway Tukwila, WA 98188 Phone: (206) 575-0949 Email: rosenpilot@aol.com Hours of Operation M-Sat: 10:00am to 8:00pm Sun(and Holidays): 11:00am to 6:00pm Closed: Thanksgiving and Christmas Unfortunately neither of these stores specialize in drag racing models and aftermarket parts. If you live on the North End a good LHS with a quite large array of car models and good supplies is American Eagles Hobby Shop. There is also an awesome train modeling shop in their basement (North End Trains) which is incredible for supplies. Since I live on the Norh End I try to throw them as much trade as makes sense. Gotta support my LHS! American Eagles Hobby Shop 12537 Lake City Way Seattle, WA 98125 Phone: (206) 440-8448 Hours: Mon-Sat 10-6

Super build. Really gporgeous with that deep black paint and all those realer-than-real details. Love those tailights! And of course those wheels and the finish you got on them. What is the paint you use to get that texture? Also, you really nailed the colors and textures in the engine bay, along with incredibly meticulous and subtle details, like the drape on the spark plug wires, the wingnuts on the valve covers, the bolt detail on the headers, etc. etc. That SBC just screams 1:1. I'd say this Vicky rates a massive two thumbs up!

This is The Tube Rat, a rat rod I built for the 2009 NNL West "Rats and Cats" theme. This build was a pure Parts Box special with a scratch frame and 100% spare parts. It started with a Photoshop “sketch†of a concept for an ultra-light tube framed radical rod based on a leftover Revell ’29 Ford pickup cab I had: (Click on picture for larger image) The completed build with more details can be found here: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.p...amp;hl=Tube+Rat The W.I.P. can be found here: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=17223

Check out Bob Black's awesome instruction sheet archive on the Drastic Plastic Model Car Club Fotki site. Just start nrowsing the American model car companies and you'll find instruction sheets, bpx art and pictures of built up show rods there. http://public.fotki.com/drasticplasticsmcc...ruction_sheets/