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gman

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Posts posted by gman

  1. That is looking extremely nice- my vote would be let the base coat metallic shine through clear. You could do test sprays with clear pearl/purple pearl on spoons or a scrap body, but it would be a shame if it subdued the brilliance of the metallics already in the base coat.

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  2. My first go around with the Tamiya TS maroon was similar to what happened in the photos of the original post. I could say the same for other colours in the TS line as well.

    I was ready to give up on the Tamiya TS sprays, but it turns out I was applying them wrong- as others have said, spray mist coats to build up some coverage and "tooth" for the following coats. Let those mist coats gas out, and then slowly build up successive coats to get full coverage. The solvent in the following coats will chemically bond with those initial mist coats and smooth them out as you continue to build the colour up. The Tamiya TS maroon lacquer is a semi-transparent paint, so multiple coats (ideally over a darker primer) will help you get to your chosen opacity in fewer coats than if spraying directly over bare plastic. If you see some texture in the paint after arriving at proper coverage, let it cure completely (the texture should settle down some when fully cured) and then polish using gentle compounds.

  3. I had a late 80's release of this kit that is just as you describe- molded in light blue, with brownish portions on a number of parts and a greasy residue on many of them. Full of flash, short shots and twisted plastic. It is possibly the most un-buildable example I have owned, but there are a few built versions on the forum which show it can be done.

  4. A good method for trimming out side windows from a one-piece glass unit is to cover the area to be cut with masking tape, make a cut beyond your intended cut line gently using a fine toothed razor saw (not forcing it- let the teeth do the work as clear parts can be brittle and crack in unexpected ways). Remove the tape, then gently take the rough plastic edge down to the cut line with files. You can even polish the cut edge with progressive grits of Flexi Files to make it look like it was molded that way.

    This method takes some time, but if done carefully will leave the clear parts you want to retain un-cracked and give you a smooth, straight edge at the window line.

  5. Tamiya semi-gloss black? (lacquer spray can, acrylic bottle)

    I used quite a bit of that Model Master black chrome over the years (usually air brushed), and hitting any gloss black or flat black spray with a few coats of semi-gloss overcoat yielded a similar look, with lacquers being more durable for handling purposes over the Model Master enamel which always remained relatively soft. While the enamel certainly had it's place, you should be able to switch to a new product and end up with something that works at least as well.

  6. ^^ this. If you are using Testors enamels, they take an extremely long time to fully "dry" beyond just an outer skin on the paint. If there is enough solvent in your second color, this will dissolve that dried skin pretty quickly.

    A good solution would be to use an acrylic for the amber lens color (such as Tamiya). The solvents shouldn't impact those in the Testors silver, and you can flow enough amber in to simulate a lens.

     

  7. 22 hours ago, noname said:

    Well, I've heard of the Spaz Stix but have never seen it. Maybe it is not readily available here in Canada.

    The last can I bought was found in Burnaby (BC) years ago. I don't believe I have seen it since. Hobby shops that carry RC car bodies and supplies would be where I would focus the search.

    https://www.pmhobbycraft.ca/mirror-chrome-paint-aerosol.html

    Amazon has it too- at more than double the price 😕

    https://www.amazon.ca/Spaz-Stix-Ultimate-Aerosol-3-5-Ounce/dp/B0015H1FGA

  8. 2 hours ago, customline said:

    A VW Beetle?  That's a chop I would not attempt. The 1:1s I've seen look a bit awkward. The complicated nature of the C pillar/hood scares me off. I have given serious consideration to attempting a chop of the Moebius '47 Aero Sedan, but that's about as difficult as I'm willing to go for now. You are welcome to post pix of your VW here, and that goes for anyone working on a chop. Or maybe post a link. I'm here to learn. Below is a chop I did on the AMT '41 Plymouth Coupe. 

    IMG_1704.jpg.2bd706cd91bce75525433d0ab1901fce.jpg

    IMG_1799.jpg.842f697a5e87396688969cd032881f9a.jpg

     

    That chop on the Plymouth sure changes its attitude- looks downright angry (and nice color choice).

  9. On 11/20/2022 at 6:10 PM, LL3 Model Worx said:

    Well, not that anyone cared anyway.  But the build is now stalled.

    My kit only had one front and rear spindel and not two...so the search is on.

    Oh no- I have never had this kit in-hand, so no idea what the missing spindles look like. Is it possible to scratchbuild what is missing based on the front + rear you do have? 

  10. On 11/9/2022 at 2:04 PM, Vintage AMT said:

    Nope, no floppingB) I mixed this paint sometime in early 2000, I put all the left over met. paint into one jar mixed with clear gloss. So in person its so dark that it's almost a black/brown till light hits it.

    That sounds like a great kind of happy accident. I love the paint job, looks great. A "parchment" interior with black accents (dash, carpet, parcel shelf) may go very nicely with your custom shade of paint.

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