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Posts posted by gman

  1. ^^ this. If you are using Testors enamels, they take an extremely long time to fully "dry" beyond just an outer skin on the paint. If there is enough solvent in your second color, this will dissolve that dried skin pretty quickly.

    A good solution would be to use an acrylic for the amber lens color (such as Tamiya). The solvents shouldn't impact those in the Testors silver, and you can flow enough amber in to simulate a lens.


  2. 22 hours ago, noname said:

    Well, I've heard of the Spaz Stix but have never seen it. Maybe it is not readily available here in Canada.

    The last can I bought was found in Burnaby (BC) years ago. I don't believe I have seen it since. Hobby shops that carry RC car bodies and supplies would be where I would focus the search.


    Amazon has it too- at more than double the price 😕


  3. 2 hours ago, customline said:

    A VW Beetle?  That's a chop I would not attempt. The 1:1s I've seen look a bit awkward. The complicated nature of the C pillar/hood scares me off. I have given serious consideration to attempting a chop of the Moebius '47 Aero Sedan, but that's about as difficult as I'm willing to go for now. You are welcome to post pix of your VW here, and that goes for anyone working on a chop. Or maybe post a link. I'm here to learn. Below is a chop I did on the AMT '41 Plymouth Coupe. 




    That chop on the Plymouth sure changes its attitude- looks downright angry (and nice color choice).

  4. On 11/20/2022 at 6:10 PM, LL3 Model Worx said:

    Well, not that anyone cared anyway.  But the build is now stalled.

    My kit only had one front and rear spindel and not two...so the search is on.

    Oh no- I have never had this kit in-hand, so no idea what the missing spindles look like. Is it possible to scratchbuild what is missing based on the front + rear you do have? 

  5. On 11/9/2022 at 2:04 PM, Vintage AMT said:

    Nope, no floppingB) I mixed this paint sometime in early 2000, I put all the left over met. paint into one jar mixed with clear gloss. So in person its so dark that it's almost a black/brown till light hits it.

    That sounds like a great kind of happy accident. I love the paint job, looks great. A "parchment" interior with black accents (dash, carpet, parcel shelf) may go very nicely with your custom shade of paint.

    • Thanks 1
  6. 15 hours ago, Spex84 said:

    Ack!! Lol, I was working on my own 3D model of a '32 Ford frame with intention of offering stock and boxed versions with '32 K-member and '40 Ford-style X members. Looks like somebody beat me to it!! Good for him :)


    If the quality of the project yields parts as nice as your other offerings, I would still consider seeing it through!

  7. I have been using Zap A Gap since the 80's, and swear by their CA+ and CA++ formulas. Yes, I keep them in the fridge, and yes I sometimes have glue set up inside the nozzle. I take a wooden tooth pick, clear the passage in the nozzle with it- very carefully, or I find I have a broken wooden toothpick sealing the bottle up permanently. 

    When kept in the fridge tightly capped (it comes in a pill type container, with two caps inner/outer on the actual bottle) the Zap A Gap stays usable for years.

    • Like 1
  8. 18 minutes ago, Ace-Garageguy said:

    Many of us who build period-correct rods have been saying exactly this for years, but so far, just crickets.

    Then again, scratchbuilding and swapping the necessary parts isn't really that difficult...and the new Atlantis repop of the old Revell "Roadster Chassis" parts packs is a great source for a lot of it.



    I'll certainly have to get a few of those if they turn up locally.


  9. 1 hour ago, Calb56 said:

    They're nice! I was thinking about the center crossmember though.


    images (3).jpeg

    That doesn't look to be an original '32 Ford center crossmember aka "K" member.

    I scratchbuilt one for a vintage hot rod project a few years back, using reference photos and breaking it down into simpler shapes that could be built up using laminated strip and sheet styrene. It was grafted into the Revell '32 rails. It is packed up in boxes somewhere due to a move, and I'll upload a photo if/when it turns up.





    If you want something closer to the crossmember in your photo, you would be better off incorporating one from a later Ford kit. As mentioned, a '40 might not be a bad place to start.

    I would love it if Revell tooled up a frame and suspension closer to what Henry made from the assembly line- transverse rear spring, wishbone suspension etc, and think doing so would sell a lot of kits for people wanting to build something less modern. They could throw in a quick change rear housing and severely dropped beam axle for the front complete with hair pins or split radius rods for the early rod appreciators amongst us :)

    • Like 1
  10. Photo etched buckles and tongues combined with craft ribbon of an appropriate width, or with masking tape painted and cut to width does a convincing job. If the buckles you are modelling are less common, they can be scratchbuilt with styrene and painted.

    What type of buckle are you looking to replicate for the belts?




    ^^ a few options available online

    Searching up what the particular belts look like on the vehicle you are building should help narrow down the aproach you use.

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