Krazy Rick

Super Kool & Super Clean !!! - Perfect

This is really model building at it's best !! .....one of the best projects I've seen !! - Love it. - Thanks much for sharing this !!

Fantastic looking Vette !!! ......thanks!!

This is a nice looking build you got going here - the color really suits it

That is plenty shiny & you definitely have perfected the use of enamel - good stuff !!

This is a great looking build here.... you've captured a truly authentic look

And here's a few examples of clear coats on Bike Tanks, just for the heck of it....The First, 15 Coats of Lacquer, ( each coat sanded )... Polished & waxed ....The other two tanks.... Urethane; 4 Coats; Sanded, Buffed, Polished & Waxed

David you have raised many good points here, firstly...that panel scribing is a necessity. Obviously Both Bruno & yourself, are accomplished painters; which I can easily gather from your posts; even before seeing the example pics.... as I can see; that you totally have a complete understanding how to work with this material & are able to achieve a "Scale Finish"; but also a gloss which suits the build. I think it's pretty safe to assume that painters, such as yourselves; would be capable of achieving a desired finish on any model; with any type of paint; be it urethane, lacquer; or water based acrylic....and Why?...because you have practised, taught yourself application techniques & have a thorough understanding of the products used. If these steps & the obvious safety precautions are followed, yes; one can work with urethane, and have good results; but I still have reservations.....I can't help but wonder; how many guys ( like yourself ) - will take all the necessary steps that are required; in order to apply this product responsibly.....Now,that being said..... again....I have to shake my head when I hear anyone mention that they are shooting this stuff "Outside"..... ( by saying "Outside, David....I hope you mean an outside Building ? .....and NOT in the Outside air ? ) seriously....this can't be good for anyone. ....Getting back to the Gloss question; here's a couple of examples.... ( Please excuse the lousy pics !!! .....The Chilly Willy is Automotive Lacquer, as is the Goofy 70's Street Freak Falcon .... The Miss Deal Stude; is Urethane..... Now, the Willy's; is 2 clear coats not polished , I felt that the gloss level was adequate; for the Era & type of car I was trying to replicate.... ( the hood does close by the way, I didn't in this pic ) ..... The Falcon, on the other hand; has 3 coats of clear, and sanded using the LMG system; starting at 6,000 grit & ending with the 12,000 ....but not polished, or waxed yet, again; all the panel lines and detail remain "Crisp" .....the Miss Deal .....was done with three coats of urethane clear & polished using the LMG system; from 3600 to 12,000 & polished & waxed ....although very nice to look at; in my opinion the gloss would be overdone for such a car in this era - So here's the thing.... I prefer the Automotive Lacquer, because I can Obtain any desired level of gloss, easily & without having to mix several products & it is Ultra Thin !! - There really is no "Magic Formula"; with any paint system...it's all about taking the time to understand the product; whether your using House Of Kolor Lacquer; or whatever urethane ....Get the Tech sheets/book & read it !! ....there is a specific application requirement for all this stuff & if you follow the steps; You'll be able to achieve a great paint job consistently. There are several factors involved; The first is Prep ..... The Mix Ratios; Distance; time in between coats & Proper overlapping passes & the speed you move the airbrush;and environment are all integral to a successful paint job !! Read Those Manuals....THAT is the Key !!! ( & Practice, practice & more Practice !!! )

Even Better

Hey Curtis, I must admit that I did poke fun of your grammatical errors; but honestly...I sure would not fault you for it.....Everyone has their strengths & weaknesses; for example, a friend...... ( who happens to be a Multi-Multi Millionaire ) ....has a grade 5 education & cannot read or write as you & I can...BUT....he is a genius with numbers; and was extremely high up & successful in the Stock market. That being said, I think if you did have access to Spell-Check; it would help you to correct any spelling errors in the future; by allowing you to see the proper spelling...once you hit the button to correct it.........here's the link to the Google Toolbar, it's very useful & does have a spell check, I come to these forums myself to both learn & help if I can....and meet some new people....I hope this can be of some help.....if/when you download the toolbar; The Button Marked "CHECK" ....is the spell check - Rick http://www.google.com/toolbar/ie/index.html

You guys are Nuts !!! - This is Great !!!!!

Your attention to detail is terrific & the dry brushing on the interior really makes it !!!

Hey Dave, please contact me....I tried to get a hold of you Via PM...But couldn't....Something is screwed up with my computer

Oh Man, I'm having an emotional flashback....give me a moment to compose myself

Yes, when you wear your "Respirato"; you reduse most of the Dangor...and thats makes it beetters

You could really be on to something here, this could be an alternative to cryogenic suspension ( I can just imagine the scientists of the future; unearthing groups of modellers encased in urethane blocks !!! ) !!!

Thanks Harry, I couldn't have said it better myself; if I tried

Um..I'll refrain from referring to you as "Dude", "Sport", "Homey" ....or anything else along these lines.. ...How about I just Call you "Curtis" & you call me "Rick" no disrespect intended; BUT ....Honestly "Curtis".....I find your logic and "comparison attempt", slightly amusing; but mostly ridiculous & pathetic DON'T take just Marks, or my word for it, please call a manufacturer of this stuff , tell them your using it in a house & see what they say; ...then ......call a couple doctors; particularly a neurologist & see what they have to say ...... This is a VERY Serious Subject & should be discussed intelligently; We can only point out the danger of improper use; we're not trying to take the fun of the hobby away; just trying to make it a bit safer for everyone.....whether anyone chooses to take this advise; or not....is entirely up to the individual... Mark & myself are trying to point out ( Who happen to be Pro Painters, with many years experience) , is the FACT; that these two particular chemicals; when combined......make a DEADLY cocktail ...that must be respected when used; All Manufacturers that Produce it, clearly state on the label ; if certain procedure isn't followed....you are risking not only your own health; but anyone who comes in contact with it ( which I consider avoidable neglect ) The Vapour is Deadly Toxic, It will effect The Kidney & Liver, permanent nerve damage & respiratory damage ......The Purpose of the Full Paint Suit, which Mark mentioned earlier.....is to protect the skin.....certain chemicals ( such as this stuff ) ; tend to penetrate without it's use....and will cause NERVE DAMAGE ..... A proper Dual cartridge mask obviously protects the mouth & nose area; membranes/breathing etc, Eye protection is a must ..it WILL DAMAGE THE EYES ........Also, when it is applied Professionally....it is used in a paint both which is setup specifically for application....it is a sealed environment; contamination is contained. I am merely stating FACTS, this IS NOT a personal attack; on you....or anyone else using it; I am merely stating that ALL safety steps should be taken.....Stated on Urethane Containers .... IT SAYS .......This Product should be used by Professionals Only .... For industrial use only by Professional,TRAINED Personnel....It's on there FOR A REASON .....the FACT is, that this stuff is NASTY,NASTY, NASTY !!! There's lots of different paint choices out there, ALOT SAFER than the Urethane; that will give you a decent finish...Ya..it's "Shiny" I very much doubt if modellers will stop using it, immediatley after reading our discussion here; but at least they may think twice about using it safely.......and ask themselves ..... is it really worth all the risk to get that shine?

I've been Custom painting for 35+ years....Urethane IS NOT The stuff to use for models.....never mind the look of it ( if you happen to like it ) .....From a safety standpoint, as the Blues man Mark pointed out.....It Is DEADLY...A FULL SUIT IS USED BY PROS, INCLUDING GLOVES .....and I'm pretty sure; less than 1% of those using it within the hobby have a professional facility within their house..& follow proper procedure ....I wonder how many are using a proper respirator & have an adequate ventilation system setup .....How many are using this stuff in a SEALED area? .... If ALL these steps are not taken into consideration when using this TOXIC CHEMICAL; then You are most likely not only exposing yourself to this stuff, BUT also exposing anyone else who happens to reside in that house; to DANGEROUS FUMES..And your only fooling yourself if you think it's not...One coat, or more coats;the stuff is GLOP......Ya, sure it's "Nice & Shiny", but If your working with 1/25 models & trying to replicate 1:1 cars.....this IS NOT the stuff to use.

As I said previously, only professionals should be handling urethane; in the wrong hands irreversible untold damage can occur

Getting back to the original Question, how shiny should shiny be..... I would say it depends on what year & type of build the model is suppose to replicate, and if you are a "Trophy Hunter" ; or just someone simply building for the fun of it......I've seen rattle can paint jobs I would definitely choose over so called "Wicked Shiny Urethane Paint jobs" ( which most of the time, obscure every possible detail; obliterate door & trunk lines & just look like crud ) .....personally, I think the whole competitive aspect of the hobby is annoying, & the cause of alot of guys to be intimidated & apprehensive; I say build for fun & totally agree with Harry's comment......this type of dialogue is Crusial to this & other Forums; as well as our great hobby.

I've been Custom Painting for many years & there is only one true way to achieve a quality realistic, quality paint job......Lacquer. Urethane is Glop, plain & simple. First of all; it is deadly toxic....it should be licenced & used by Pro Automotive Painters & Not be used by anyone else. It is meant for full scale vehicles & industrial application, in a safe....well ventilated area.....CERTAINLY NOT in a house !!!....( Remember, even though, the guy painting may have a mask on & the window open; this stuff will go into vents & everywhere else in the house & effect Anyone in that house & is Cancer causing ) secondly; no matter how it is applied; it is WAY TOO THICK. Very rarely have I seen a model painted with it, that I can honestly say; it is satisfactory.....it buries detail 99.9 % of the time.........perhaps on the odd larger scale ( 1/8, 1/12, etc..) without door & trunk lines, such as a trike; or that sort of thing...it might be not bad; but overall...I find the look is completely unacceptable. Automotive Lacquer, on the other hand; is extremely thin, easy to work with & is perfect, as far as controlling the gloss to suit the build. Of course all safety precautions must be observed with it as well, but I would say between the two; that it is probably slightly less hazardous.....( even water-based paint is toxic by the way; the pigment is still dangerous; although the carrier may be water ) - Now as far as Judging goes in contests....it's beyond me how some of these " Shiny Glop Paint Jobs" impress judges.....me, I'll take realism over "Shiny"....Every Time.

Thanks Attenza