whale392

^^^ Nice Mike...is that also an Aoshima kit? ^^^

Looks good to me Rick......if mine looks 1/100th as good I will be happy!

Is that the Revell or Jada kit you used?

I will be going to the salvage yard Wednesday....I'll take the camera along! Anything in particular (besides or in addition to) your mentioned needs?

I will third the Revell 240Z kit. It is supposed to represent the 71 version, as the bumpers changed in 1972 as well as the medallion behind the quarter window. My suggestion; pick up the Revell kit and a copy of the Black Dragon parts catalog and start building a 1973 (Black Dragon is like the J.C Whitney catalog just for the 'Z' cars).

My fuzzy children are OK.........................when I am here! Dad leaves though, and all particular heck breaks loose. My oldest is 4, next is 3, and the youngest just turned 1; guess who starts the trouble?

Not saying it can't, but I had my decals craze on me when I shot TS13 over them (even applying several light coats didn't help).

When it comes to power in the Miata...turbo will do wonders without horribly upsetting the balance of the car. Too few people understand balance will trump all-out power any day of the week for a roadgoing car.

I use nail polishes, shot through my VL with the biggest needle/seat I have. Makes Bass boats and 70s rail a lot more convincing when you have the real 'Flake job on it!

Side molding take a beating too, either becoming faded, discolored, or peel away. , Headlights become clouded and hazed yellow.....BADLY. I hope these have helped some, and I will post more rust pics when I have time. If no one cares, at least they are here for me to reference back to!

Rear hatch surface rust between the GT wing and the hatch. Clearcoat peeling from around the hatch/taillight area. Where the Florida sun has not only eaten the clear AND the topcoat, but has also started to pit/deteriorate the poly plastic bumper cover under it. The natural color of the front bumper cover is a yellow polymer, and will show through when the paint either fades or chips away from it. The rear bumper is a reddish/maroon color as a natural, and as with the front will show through when the paint starts to fail. The roof and sheetmetal of the car will go to gray primer or metal if the sun burns through the primer coat. The next series of pics will show this. , , , ,

, , , , These are pics of the rust areas in the floorpan. One is upside down, but I was under the car when I took it; it shows the rust at the lower control arm to frame mounting boss at the rear seat area of the car. Another shows the rust where the floorpans meet the rear seat bolster area. Rust in the rear bumper......believe me when I say I hate working with Northern cars!

The obligitory Hatch rust (almost all FOX Mustangs have it) Hood lip rust (Northern FOX Mustangs have this as well) C-Pillar rust...due to crappy drainage and being a northern car. These cars have bad rust issues at the lower rockers where the rear fenders meet them, and up front where the lower cowl meets the rocker upturns. Hatch rust is a given; the entire lip above the taillights will rot out along with the hatch latch area. Floorpans at the forward toe-board kick-ups and at the rear seat bolster. Above the gas tank (trunk floor) and at the K-Member mounting flange (frame) in the front fenderwell. Below the battery box and the lower radiator support will also vanish quickly. , This is specific to sunroof/t-top cars as the drain tubes run to/down the A-pillar, and this one was clogged. Better pic of the damaged area. A better shot of the C-pillar carnage (where it will rust around the joint/hinge area). Door damage from someone trying to align the door with a prybar and a 6 pack of stupid-juice. This is the rust I was talking about in the framerail where the K-member bolts into it at. Rust hole in the trunk floor (spare tire well) between it and the top of the gas tank.

Looks good to me!

Steve; if I remember correctly (that is asking a lot as jet fuel and time have blurred the mind and killed off many brain cells) they were released by either Aoshima or Fujimi as a wheel/tire/brake set in the mid 90s.

Hey Chris......thanks for catching my stupidity!! Sleep deprevation and typing (and thinking for that matter) surely DON'T mix.

Well, after being in Columbus this weekend, my plans were changed for me by my cats. That nice scratchbuilt/kit modified K-Member I had going on..........it is now in two pieces with bite marks all throughout it. One of the lower control arms for the rear is MIA as well. Talk about being MAD!!! So, I have decided to go back to the crappy kit parts and save the complete scratchbuilding for a more suited project (a model of my 1991GT). The only things I will scratch on this one now are the modified ride height and I will make the V6/auto combo for this one now. I love my cats, but sometimes I think I would be better off without pets.

So now that yo have a name picked, can this thread die? Oh, and for those of you who are of age, I have cold beer in the cooler.

The Thunder Charger and Furious Fiat are already re-issued as of this writing (in both collectors tin and boxed set); check the Double Dragster thread in kit reviews and see the builds here in this section. I too would love to see the others re-issued, as the Bantam would be used to model a friends car.

^^^ That be them!! ^^^

Call me crazy, but after all the cutting and fitting, waiting for the grill from Revell, and other custom touches.............why just settle on the paint? Seems a little silly to me to do all that work and still compromise on something as simple as paint. (No disrespect meant by asking that)

Plymouth is gone too Nick; so is Saturn.

I just tried to pull some images to this thread, but copy/paste failed horribly! Guess that is what happens when they are NOT my pics. Anyway, they are the two-piece star wheel with the rivet band around the 'spider' of the wheel, flat-faced (Google Saleen Stern or Saleen SA10).

Interesting........I could almost use the 1/32nd scale wheels to replicate the smaller (is it the 20"?) wheels used on double-drop flatbeds in 1/25th-1/24th scale.

Another slightly long haul is over in Virginia Beach area (I was stationed there and have been out to Roanoke twice.......the 'Star City' of the Blue Ridge!). TAMS (Tidewater Automotive Modelers Society) meets at the HobbyTown USA or the Library in Virginia Beach (where is Jerry Quick when I need him?!). Then again, I am going on a 10 year old memory.