simonr

Hey Fred: as I told you, great models on the table!. I only hope you have enough time to finish any of them so we can see how they will look. Dale pa'lante, bro! Simón P.Rivera Torres

Hey bro, great job on this classic racer!...this a must in my future "to do" list. Simón P. Rivera Torres

Oh yes!...nothing like seeing a master working! Simón P. Rivera Torres

Real nice!...this is something that stands out here among the models that are posted here daily, because, in my personal opinion, it's a not so common way to present a model. Not everyone take the risk making those real nice cut aways,as you did. Again, nice work! Simón P. Rivera Torres

It remember me all those headaches I had around 10 years ago with this one, and it was much less perfect that yours! Simón P. Rivera Torres

Oye verdad se me olvido esta, Felicidades Simón

Oye, quedo bien. Simón P. Rivera Torres

Hey Jim, a masterpiece so far, as always. I'll be glued to this thread! Simón P. Rivera Torres

Yes, this is the enthusiast kit, but, thank anyway, I already chek the same kit from a firend of me here in Puerto Rico. Simón P. Rivera Torres

No I didn't,but, if you can send me that part I will apprecciate it. Let me know Simón P. Rivera Torres

Gregg, I won't be at the NNL east, maybe some day. I you can mail them to me, let me know. Simón P. Rivera Torres

I wonder if some of you guys have parts #70 and #71 from tree LETTER D and that for any situation will not use them. These are the tiny rouded chrome bases for the rear stop and turn signals. Also if someone won't use the license plate decals. I will aprecciate it a lot. They were missed in the kit and I need them to finish the body. A copy in resin or other material would be OK. Let me know. Simón P. Rivera Torres

I wonder if some of you guys have parts #70 and #71 from tree LETTER D and that for any situation will not use them. These are the tiny rouded chrome bases for the rear stop and turn signals. Also if someone won't use the license plate decals. I will aprecciate it a lot. They were missed in the kit and I need them to finish the body. A copy in resin or other material would be OK. Let me know. Simón P. Rivera Torres

I wonder, why it's so difficult to get this fine line of paints here in the states, since the Tamiya lacquers(I wonder also why they not sell them in small jars)can be obtained almost in any hobby store and even by air mail. I consider the Tamiyas a good one because for its covering, fast drying time, easy to polishing quality, and availability, but, Gunzes at least to me, its superior not just only for having almost the same features or maybe better in some of them, but, for the triple or almost cuadruple amount of colors, different lines(even a special car color line), price, the greatness of get them in small 10ml jars, and that most of the plastic models we buy from Japan, comes with the Gunze color numbers as a standard to follow. I got two days ago one of those emails that I almost always just do a fast reading from greatmodels.com telling that tey will look for other distributors to get some of the most asked products from Gunze like the Mr. Surfacer 1000, 500, 1200, white surfacer, etc, but, also the great news of all, that they even could get the '"enamel" line aswell. I know that in the past this guys sold them, I even got some of the last jars at 75 cents in their retail shop in Salt Lake City when I attended my first GSL back in 2005. As far as I know, in Japan they are really cheap at around 120Y. That's in our dollar change around $1 and with just one 10ml jar(the same size of Tamiya acrylics) I can paint all the coats I need in a car in 1/24 without any problem. I know I can get them through some stores like Rainbow 10 and 1999 in Japan just to name a few, but, today shipping charges make it's final price to go up to high, maybe, through a LHS would be better. Guys, I would like read another thoughs from you to see if there is another way to get them. Simón P. Rivera Torres

Here are some closeup pictures of the polished body. to be continued... Simón P. Rivera Torres

Here's something more, not much, but, here's how the body being after the polishing process. Like I told, both the House of Kolors and the Finishers Clear coats performed so well that I though the polishing steps would an easy one, and this was what happened. With a little effort I got a smooth nice and glossy surface. Note that some Bare Metal Foil has been added. to be continued... Simón P. Rivera Torres

Man, beautifull work on these all time classic racers. I have the yellow Porsche in my to do soon list. Again, nice work! Simón P. Rivera Torres

Jmmm...from all you guys said about the upcoming show it looks like this is a show with so much fun...maybe some day I'll be there. Have fun guys! Simón P. Rivera Torres

Hey, my buddy, perfect colors demarcation, it's look like will be another bomb to your already impresive arsenal. This kind of work it's the one pump me to keep trying to do my best. Bien bravo...como siempre! Simón P. Rivera Torres

After the color was shooted, I waited a whole day and the I proceed to airbrushed some of the best clears I had tried ever. It was the Finishers Auto Clear. Here you guys will see, how this great clear performed. I dried with a great natural little gloss that almost need nothing to buff out, a great advantage when you go the extra mile try to get the best gloss using the elbow grease. Again, we have here, some closeup pictures of how everything being even with all the coats needed to achieve a nice natural gloss without cover any of the detail on the body. At this stage, I felt that the buffing process will be an easy one because whe you guys have a nice and even natural gloss at this stage, the rest could be said that will be piece of cake! to be continued... Simón P. Rivera Torres

After take sometime working with the bodywork, I proceed to do one of the most enjoyable part of any modemaking...painting. For color,like I told before, it will be red. I will use a beautyfull red I picked up last year at the GSL. This is the House of Kolors Euro Red. Since the Gunze primers are lacquers, I won't have any problem with any lacquer, even with this automotive one. Here you can see how well the lacquer performed. Even the tiny parts hasn't loose any detailed after all the paint coats. To be continued.... Simón P. Rivera Torres

After some time being busy with my musical world, I'm back. This project has been one waiting to be done in the model line up of my rack for long time. It will be adding a spot to the Late '50's-early '60's Convertible Sport car series I had been building for the last five years. I was started with my Italeri Ferrari 250GT California Spyder. Followed by the Testors Mercedes Benz 300SL Convertible. Something common on them it's that they are convertible cars, they are from the late '50's- early '60's(1958-1962)period, and something special on these cars, all of them are red. I consider the color choice has been the right one on all of them until now, but, the Mercedez could be painted in other color like silver or white. On the Ferrari, as everyone here knows, red it's almost the obliged color. After the current project, I plan to do the Alfa Romeo Giuoletta, you already knows it, an Alfa...deep red, later, a Corvette, obvious, candy apple red. The Italeri Ferrari 250GT California Spyder The Testors Mercedes Benz 300SL Cabriolet Looking to this series, I noticed that I didn't have one of my favorite car maker...PORSCHE. I didn't think it twice, it has to be a 356, but, which one? The choice wasn't a difficult one. I guess I picked one of the most replicated car of the world, the 356 carrera Speedster. This Fujimi kit it's a great one, besides, it's one of the few full detailed kits available. I'm thinking make a high detailed version of this one, so, let's see what happens in the following months...or year!...let's start! After give the bathtub, I mean the body a light sanding, I proceded to airbrush my favorite primer for a first coat, Gunze Sangyo's Mr. Surfacer 1000. This a fine flat light gray primer that can reveal any imperfection an needs no sanding. All the parts that will be painted as the same body color, were painted at this time. As you guys can see here, any minor detail hasn't been covered, as can be seen in this closeup picture. Only at the rear, I had to putty something and after I airbrshued my another option everything vanished. At this spot I used Gunze Sangyo Mr. Surfacer 500. After this, I airbrushed another light coat of Mr. Surfacer 1000 only to this spot to eal everything. Since it was done in the morning in my garage, I put the model body and parts in the dehydrator to keep everything warm every time I painted a something. To be continued..... Simón P. Rivera Torres

Another weird kit that will have it's shot to become a decent kit. I know how you feel, because, I built this kit almost ten years ago, straight from the box not the nice detailed version you're doing, and I suffer a lot trying to get this model to a decent look. As you explain, perhaps it didn't performed as well as the people from Porsche and public in general, but, speaking about a Porsche and an Indy Porsche something so weird, I guess it's a classic anyway you see it. Being a Porsche fan, I will stick on this one. Simón P. Rivera Torres

I'm agree with Brendan. When I built this car almost ten years ago that's what I did. Here's a couple of pictures so you can have an Idea of what I did. For clear, this was one of my very first attempts with PPG urethane clear. Simón

Without any doubt a masterpiece!... I don't know to say if I had the best time watching the progress on the build up of this historical car, or if I'm enjoing better looking to the pictures of the final product. I n any way I think it's a great piece of history. Te la comiste bro!..espero verlo pronto en vivo y a todo color. Simón P. Rivera Torres