simonr

OK, let's do final touches to the front section. I wasn't happy with the resin air ducts, since I know a way to do a real one. I will do it from a tip I learned in MODEL CARS MAGAZINE from my good friend Gregg Nichols. It's real easy, just dip in clear acrylic varnish or in white glue(what I used) a spring made out of some thinn wire. Turn it from the upper part to the bottom part until it starts to dry. As soon it start to dry, with a toothpick, add (drop by drop) some paint to the inside tunnel of the spring. This drops helps to take out the excess of glue inside the tunnel, and at the same time paint the inside of the tunnel. When the glue dries clear, it shows the color of the paint. Just make sure that the first drop of glue you take goes to the paint jar, because, if not it will go to the outside and you guys will have to start over again. This is why it should be use acrylic paint. Here you can see the resin part and the part I did. I cut the bases and brush painted it. Also added some Bare Metal Foil to simulate the metal tie wraps. Here all the parts together including the white ones for the rear brakes. Here, the finished part already mounted. The front aluminum apnel was added at this stage. The only sad part it's that all the wiring and plumbing of the brake system now it's hard to see and almost vanished. This is a final view of the whole section together. It looks much better in person to me. The front body panel was painted and decaled. As I said in the other posts, I used Tamiya X-15 Blue, witht he Tamiya Lacquer thinner, and a little bit of Gunze Sangyo retarder mild. For this section I just scratchbuilt with some plastic bits the front signal light marker and an aftermarket Cibie decal. The projection lights were added at this stage. Here the complete front section duo. In the next section I will include the best part of the model,..the engine,which it's already started and almost finished. Simon

Pretty cool model!...is this the Gunze Sangyo? Simon

Thanks guys for all your kind comments. First of all, like my good friend Ismael said, yes, it's tiny 1/43 scale and believe or not, all this "simple" job took me around 2 weeks to complete. I was more amaze than you guys when I saw the pictures, because, I didn't know how much detail will show the close up picrures. Remember this it's not like 1/24, there it is too much to scratchbuilt because of the lack of available parts to detail. I promise to post more pictures tonight with the front aluminum panel, the air ducts, and the front body part. Stay tuned! Simon

This something I've been working in the past weeks. I will do the front aluminum panel with some parts I will add. Here you guys can see the stock front. To start I will substitute the lack of detail resin shocks for better detailed Tameo aluminum ones. The bases for the brake clipers and rotors also where altered to hold aftermarket sloted 2 part sloted rotors. Look at the right hand the kit's not sloted rotor with the non-altered base. Here the parts already installed. The kit just include small containers for clutch and brake fluids. I had some wiring and plumbing for it and also I sctratchbuilt the cilinders and add the connector nut. General view.. to be continued...

What a great job on this one!...I know it, because, I did one of this GT 40's and believe me, it does't has the level of todays models, despite, It was considered a high level model back in the 60's. I would like to share what I did (if you allowe me)with the 1964 Le Mans version of this model from IMC, specially for Monoped, who haven't seen one of this before. Simon

Count me in!.....I'll be there. Simon

Hey Abraham, pretty good job!...oooooootro pa'la lancha! Simon

Ismael, from any side you see the model, it's such a real nice build,..box stock!....but, anyway it's a nice build. Like the famous phrase says: "Back to the basics" Te quedo bien conco... Simon

Hey Carlos, welcome to our forum. To those who haven't hear from him, he's one of the top builders here in Puerto Rico. An immpresive build..as always! Vaya papa, bienvenido a la lancha! Simón

I'm agree with this forum members. I was there last year and it's one of the best shows I've ever attend. Look for Bill Barker in the contact names and he will help you with everything. He's a real gentleman and after that show one of my good friends. I had a great time there, you will not dissapointed. Simón

As you know, GSL XXI is coming up in May. The GSLXXI have just completed and it is available at the GSL Web site here: http://www.gslchampionship.org/Competition...-XXI-manual.pdf The manual contains all the information you need to pre-register for GSL, plan your trip to Salt Lake, and make the most out of this great event. Please download the manual and read it soon! See you in Salt Lake! Simon

As you know, GSL XXI is coming up in May. The GSLXXI have just completed and it is available at the GSL Web site here: http://www.gslchampionship.org/Competition...-XXI-manual.pdf The manual contains all the information you need to pre-register for GSL, plan your trip to Salt Lake, and make the most out of this great event. Please download the manual and read it soon! See you in Salt Lake! Simon

And I'm sorry too, ismael...jajaja...the pictures of the finished model. Simon

Ismael: these are the pictures I told you I have of my model finished back on 2001. Sorry about the quality if the pictures, it was my first digital camera. It's just to show you how I detailed mine. It was also a box stock, except for the rims. With this model I experimented with the mode's base the use of the House of Kolors Marbelizer paint with a House of Kolors Candy Apple red on top of it. Simon

Speaking about airbrushes, does anyone here have information about using Gunze Sangyo airbrushes? I've heard that they need a special adapter to use with the compresors here in America. Any info will be highly aprecciated. Simon

I also higly recommend this event. It's not only the kind of models you will see there, if not, the kind of great people that gathers there. It's like, everyone there want to be you best friend. Everyone there want to share anything that can help you. I was there in the 2005 event and was so imressed that will return this year. See you guys there! Simon

In my opinion, if you want something in lacquer that will hold ANYTHING over it, is't plastic friendly, real thinn, don't need to sand anything after spray or airbrush it, that is completly compatible with enamels, lacquers or acrylic, I recommend Gunze Sangyo's Mr. Surfacer 1000 primer. Once you use it you will forget about those testors or tamiya's primers. I've heard that Floquil primer do the same, but, I haven't try it yet. Simon

Pretty cool build...my thumb up! Que coj*&^%!@, la chopa..jajajaj! Simón

Sweeeet! You're doing very well...keep us updated as far as you can. Dale pa'lante bro! Simón

R.I.P. Ricky, I had the chance to met him and he was trully a great modeler and a best friend. We will miss him. Simón

Bill, awesome work so far! Can I suggest something?..you could a little wash to the bottom of the car(specially on the engine, disc brakes, and transmision) and it could look even more real. I'm so impress with the bottom that I guess that is maybe waht it only needs to be perfect. Keep the good work on. Hope to see more. Simón

Bill, awesome work so far! Can I suggest something?..you could a little wash to the bottom of the car(specially on the engine, disc brakes, and transmision) and it could look even more real. I'm so impress with the bottom that I guess that is maybe waht it only needs to be perfect. Keep the good work on. Hop to see more. Simón

Now it's the time were the fun really starts. In my opinion, after I built the 1/24 Tamiya counterpart of this model, I can say that even I didn't finish this model yet, it looks more impressive that the 1/24. I think it's the small size of this car. Here we gonna see the decaled model. It is shown from different angles.I took almost 4 hours to complete and a lot of blower and decl setting applications. The model you guys see here, has been taped in the inside in order to show it as a whole body. Once it's completed, is a 3 pieces body with opened doors. Yes, it's a real intresting model, but, what I like the most is the historic Racing period it represents. To be continue.. Simon

Thanks to all you guys for your kind comments. Simon

I started with some Tamiya Lacquer gloss white. You can see the result of the good Gunze mr. surfacer 1000. I decanted some paint I had at home, mixed with some Tamiya Lacquer thinner, and add some Mr Mild Retarder. Although I live in Puerto Rico, it was painted in this winter were it's not as hot as in the summer days. For those that haven't heard about the retarder before, It slow down the dry time of the paint and this avoid a little bit(if I can said totally) the orange peel effect. I mix everything and shoot it through my airbrush. Here how the Tamiya gloss white performed. It almost needs no polishing. I did some masking before I paint the Tamiya blue at the sides of the model. Here it's how it being. Next I will go with the decaling to be continued... Simon