Dr. Cranky

Beautiful job, Tye. Well, I wanted to do some Tiki Stuff on mine, and I just don't feel like going through the process of sealing and primering that all that red plastic. I really like the way yours turned out.

Rob, here's my break down: For Weathered/Rusty vehicles: Primer: rattle can Plastikote (if it's not raining) or Vallejo Primer (when it's raining and I want to build) Paints: Tamiya, Floquil, Vallejo Model Air Flat Clear Medium (Liquitex, Vallejo or Golden) For Shiny/Gloss: Primer: rattle can Plastikote Paints: House of Color, Auto Air Color, or lately Enamels thinned with cheap lacquer thinner (Donn Yost's method) BLING: CLEAR FX or PEARL EX powders Clear: DuPont Spot Acrylic Clear Oh, all the paint work is done with either the Iwatas or the Paasche H if I'm using Enamels. If I end up doing two tones or paint graphics, I tend to use HOUSE OF KOLOR.

Joe, thank you for the revised list, I already posted it to the first page. THANK YOU for doing this. Wow, 115 people in the TZH SQUAD. That's a lot of eye candy. Speaking of eye candy, Steven, I got yours and I will also copy all the new ones on this page. Thank you all for keeping the energy up and going. Cheers, DC

Mike, I am working on it right now with a 41 Willys frame conversion and I will use the Hemi engine . . . it's a bit of work, but I'm getting there. I think.

James, I love it, great little model. The brass knuckles shifter is an inspired touch.

Art, that is a BEAUTIFUL model. You got it just right.

Jeff, those are good too, but the price on them has been steady for a while . . . the Iwatas for some reason are going to keep going up.

Andy, you are absolutely right. Which is why I put in a little at a time just to see how the subtle changes occur, then once I like it, it's ready to be sprayed.

Art, I am not a collector of kits, so when it's not white plastic, it sort of drives me crazy! I was getting ready to build the kit, but now I am going to wait until the trade arrives. So i goes.

I think a lot of it has to do with import fees, but also with shipping costs. The price of gas continues to rise, etc . . . Wow, I just realized that six bottles of RC equal one Iwata Eclipse, which go for about 120 dollarss.

Monty, when I paint weathered vehicles, I use the Vallejo acrylics including their primers. I use Vallejo Model Air paints which already come ready for the airbrush. But, I also use to Tamiya and Floquil acrylics on the same builds, depending on colors and results I am looking for. Here are a couple of recent examples:

Oh no, I know, I'm going to build one of these, but I will have to wait a few more days.

I might just go for the old skool drag look. I like that idea.

Steven, any new pics?

Ira, you are a man possessed of true styrene genius! Wow, I like the way this thing is turning out.

Thor, here's some inspiration for you from a build Hollywood Jim did a couple of years ago.

Danno, I want to but I find all that red/glitter textured styrene a bit of a turn off, and I don't want to do all the extra work of sealing and primering just to get the kind of quality I would expect if I started out with white styrene in the first place. I'm already trading it for the regular kit.

Boy, that's a BEAUTY! Great job, thanks for sharing the eye candy with us.

Model Round Up has it listed for 79.99 or something like that. It's arriving this coming month.

Rick, the way I do it is very easy. You mount the chrome part on an alligator clip or piece of tape and you mist some rattle can black primer from about 18 inches away. Just to pit it. A couple of bursts will do it. Then you repeat the process with ruddy brown primer. Try it subtle first, then add more if you need it. Again, so it looks pitted, then you add a black wash over the entire thing. You also mist on a little silver or gray primer. You can do it a on scrap piece of chrome or spare bumper to try see if you like it. Try it and post your results. Good luck.

These are all wonderful. Very nice scenes, Ed. Thank you for sharing the eye candy, everyone.

Give it a try, but I think the best way is to airbrush them on lightly, let the pearl coat dry and THEN put on a Future-only coat for the final gloss.

Ryan, that might not work because you'd be moving the pearls around with the brush.

Sam, that's a beautiful ride. I think if there's enough interest, the aftermarket folks will start putting out some body variations, I hope.

Thanks, Sam, I already got a trade happening. I cannot imagine building this thing like this with the rough sparkly texture. I am not a collector of kits, I am a builder.