Len Woodruff

Thanks Mark. I read today that it might help heating the mold (mine are resin). I might put one of the pucks in my dehydrator for awhile then try to form it while it is still warm.

My Pet-G has a Clear cover on one side and a white cover on the other. Does that mean 1 side is where the heat is aplied and the other is formed over the buck?

Mark did you ever get sme feed back about the cloudiness from vacuum forming the Pet-G Clear?

Here is an update on how I mounted the cowl. On each side top & bottom i used some .035 round stock so it would be flush with the countour of the sides. Then I used some flat stock tto keep the fron from being to high once I gluded it in. I did glue 2 .040 square stock on the ends so once I had it posittion I could tack it to hold to make sure it lined up.

Thanks Guys. I was able to make a resin copy. I can use that to vacuum form. What thickness of white plastic do you use? I use thee .020 Pet-G for the windshields.

I think you are on the right track. But I need to make sure the PE piece is flush woth the cowl. I may glue the tab to the PE piece 1st so I can get it flush with the rest of the cowl.

Here's a pic of the 1:1

Has anyone added a photo etched cowl to a body. Here is a pic of the one I am doing. Can you give me any guidence? Like how to blend the area after it is intalled etc?

Thx Michael. I ordered it from USA Gundam and should get it in the next few days.

That's a great idea Ricky. The clear flat is really thin and should level out nicely.

That's an idea about letting it set until tacking might work. In retrospec if I new about tthe P/E vents were available when I started I would have drilled the holes.

I just bought some of that Bill. I will give it a shot.

Wow thanks for the steps on using SMS Chad

Thanks.

They have cold & warm tones. Which is best for bumpers?

Thanks Chad. I cheked ICEMAN and he shows Out of Stock. I will check USA Gundam store.

I would lke to attach these to the top of the dashboard. The dash board is flat black. I tried some epoxy but it is too thick and squeezes out around the edges. Any thoughts?

Thanks for the info. Do you have a US source that has it in stock?

Thanks for the input Art.

GSL Steve.

Thanks for your input Dusty. If I would have had the bumpers ready in time I would have had them chromed at Little Motor Car Co.

Good nfo Dusty. I say a video and they were shooting the AK Chrome but at the end did a comparision. He likes the new Green Stuff World best. I just ordered some from a shop in Michigan. Hope to have it soon.

Interesting update. I checked a Model I used Alclad Chrome on in 2005. It still shows bright chrome and does not come off when I run a cotton swab over it. Another model I did in 2015 using Spaz Stix Ultra Chrome 1000. Still bright chrome. Does not come off when I rub a cotton swab over it. Does that mean that the longer the cure time the more durable it all of these paints become? My Molotov experiance has Spaz Stix Ultimate Clear Coat 1000 and it did dull the finish some. I did hear the longer it cures the mre durable it gets.

Thanks for sharing your results. ery Helpful to me.

Thx for the info.