Len Woodruff

Update on using the Green & SMS Chrome. I used Tamiya Gloss Black TS 14 shot from the can. Then on 1 set I shot Spalsh Paints Urethane clear. The pictures show the Green with & w/o clear. Then the SMS with & without clear. Its hard t see in these pics but I can't tell much difference between the chromes or whether they had clear under them or not.

Thanks Jason. I have Meguiar's 1 & 2 Mirror Glaze. I will look for the Ultimate the next time I go to the auto parts store.

Dusty I have had these a long time. I checked their website and they are not listed anymore.

I just used their 2K clear and was think of trying these compounds. I usally use 3m Finness-It or Mequires Scratch X. Any feed back would be greatly apppreciated.

Thanks Rich. I haven't heard of that product before. I will check it out.

Thanks guys. I didn't think about the gloss clears. I will pickup some Tamiya Glass acrylic this week.

What brand/type?

In the past I usually use E-Poxy spread with a thin wire so it doesn't screeze out around the script. That was ok but now I need to apply some really smal scripts. I saw once that someone used Future to attach the small scripts. Anyone else use this or some other super thin way to glue them on?

Looking forward to this build.

Keep us updated Charles. I have been using the anti-static dusters before I load the plastic to get rid of dust. I tried some yesterday and got 1 windshield without the cloudiness but the other 3 still have it. Not sure where the sweet spot is yet.

I am going to start testing tomorrow. Can I use Tamiya Lacquer Gloss Balck for the base?

Guys I am back at this and I have one of Bill G's acuum forming machines that is much superior to the one I had before. I am trying to use the "sag" method. I notice in the You Tube Bill's sheet sagged below the metal rim. Haven't let the sag go that far but that will be my next step. The only issue I am seeing now is some cloudiness on the part after it is formed. I tried heating the buck in my dehydrator at 95 dgrees but still got some cloudy spots. Any feedback will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks Tony & TJ. That's what I thought but didn't remeber the last time I tired it.

I can make a nice filet around the scoop so it looks molded into the hood using white glue. If flows nicely and gives you a few minutes to smooth it out like caulking in your house. My question is can you spray lacquer paints over it with no ill affects? Thanks in advance for your help.

Thanks for the encouragement Rick. I bought the plastic July 22. So it should be fresh. It has been stored in the house since I bought it. Mine has white protective film on 1 side and clear on the other. Any thoughts if one side should be toward the heat and the other toward the buck?

Could be Les. I did heat it for an hour in my Dehydrator at 95 degrees.

Mark I tried heating the buck in the dehydrator but I still get some clouding.

Thanks Mark. I read today that it might help heating the mold (mine are resin). I might put one of the pucks in my dehydrator for awhile then try to form it while it is still warm.

My Pet-G has a Clear cover on one side and a white cover on the other. Does that mean 1 side is where the heat is aplied and the other is formed over the buck?

Mark did you ever get sme feed back about the cloudiness from vacuum forming the Pet-G Clear?

Here is an update on how I mounted the cowl. On each side top & bottom i used some .035 round stock so it would be flush with the countour of the sides. Then I used some flat stock tto keep the fron from being to high once I gluded it in. I did glue 2 .040 square stock on the ends so once I had it posittion I could tack it to hold to make sure it lined up.

Thanks Guys. I was able to make a resin copy. I can use that to vacuum form. What thickness of white plastic do you use? I use thee .020 Pet-G for the windshields.

I think you are on the right track. But I need to make sure the PE piece is flush woth the cowl. I may glue the tab to the PE piece 1st so I can get it flush with the rest of the cowl.

Here's a pic of the 1:1

Has anyone added a photo etched cowl to a body. Here is a pic of the one I am doing. Can you give me any guidence? Like how to blend the area after it is intalled etc?