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seanyb505

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Everything posted by seanyb505

  1. Looks like it might be B5 Bright Blue Metallic. Not sure about the testors equivalent though, but I know scalefinishes has it listed.
  2. I've got a few Big T kits in the pipeline and I'm preparing the paint stash before starting. As I'm looking for the best price online I've come across a few questions.... 1.) Enamel or acrylic? I know this is based on several factors so here's what's at play for me: The only acrylic I've used so far is Tamiya X18 Semi Gloss Black and I hate the way it goes on with a paint brush. Testors enamels have been my go to, but I'd rather just follow the instructions instead of trying to match paint colors across brands so I'd like to stock up on Tamiya paints. I'm also trying to push myself to use a paint brush less and less on small pieces and move to painting most pieces with an air brush. I'd like to put the days of "painting an entire interior by hand only to have it look like a five year did it" behind me. Short version - Tamiya Acrylic or enamel? Testors enamel - comfortable using/detailing with a paint brush, looks terrible. Tamiya Acrylic - not comfortable with, better results with airbrush? Tamiya Enamel - Any reason to buy over acrylic? 2.) How long do the less than an ounce jars last when used through an airbrush? Ultimately I'm trying to balance out using the correct color with $ value. There are certain work horse colors that are used so much I know it will just be easier and less expensive to use general hardware store spray paints - Flat Black, Satin Black, Steel, etc. For other colors I'd like to stick in the Hobby world instead of just saying, "This blue is close enough." It will give me less anxiety to actually use the called for color instead of always trying to find an alternative, but at the same time so does spending less. I know for a standard 3 oz spray can I can safely do one entire body + touch up, but how long will the non-aerosol, less than an ounce paint jars last if I use an airbrush? Two-three models? 200 years? What is the general consensus for how often certain colors are purchased? Is it better to buy larger quantities of some colors (10ml or 23ml for example)? I know there will be a lot of variables so I'm just looking for what other builders general patterns are. Short version: How much paint to buy? What colors do you use so much that it's more economical to just buy a can of duplicolor? For colors with no alternative, is it better to just buy the 23ml? Opinions appreciated!
  3. The detail in question is the area of the side vents on a Road Runner/Superbird body. It's not going to be chrome so I'm not sure the BMF before painting will work, maybe a combination of the two methods, applying BMF to raised areas after the final coat but before polishing? Thanks for the ideas!
  4. I'm starting to notice that as I ascend through the polishing grits that I can't get right up to details without removing paint from the detail. The result is either there is a difference in appearance between the polished area and the non polished space surrounding the detail, or I take all the paint off the raised details. Is there a tool I can use to use to get precise motions with polishing cloths? Or should I just always expect that I will need to lay another coat to ensure complete coverage?
  5. It doesn't show in the pictures, but the top has already been sanded away. I liked the clean look of the 1:1, so I went through the trouble of making it smooth.
  6. Thanks for the tip on the strainer. I've made small progress. Got the wing glued as a unit and coming along with the interior bucket. I threw the rims into some purple power supplies since the paint Usually not cover them well.
  7. The front suspension and the interior have stumped me to the point where I have gone through my stash to find a more straightforward build. I found the exact same kit and thought, "I'll do an easy 'bird." While removing the chrome plating from the valve covers I let one go down the sink. Not to be stopped, I went through my stash looking to see what other kit had a 440 valve cover. I couldn't find one but I did decide on donating the Hemi from an MPC Daytona I wasn't planning on building oob to the tribute build, so I could use the stock 440 valve cover on the stock 'bird. I was again concerned on using a 1:25 engine in a 1:24 body, but the Hemi is of decent size and fill the engine bay quite nicely. Lots of swapping going on here...
  8. Not really sure how to go about the front suspension. I'm trying to use the thunderbird control arms but they cramp the engine block they are so long. I wanted to scratchbuild as little of it as possible but it looks like I need to figure out a lot of it. It was easy to accommodate the wider tires in the rear but there's just more going on up front. I did trim the k member down to not look like a huge chunk of plastic. Perhaps some viper parts may work...
  9. It is the blue plastic it was molded in lol. I'll likely end up using whatever petty blue looking blue I can find.
  10. Started this build a few weeks ago. So far I've only done basic body work and rear suspension. Plan is to use the inspiration as inspiration and not to make an exact replica. I'll be keeping the 440 stock, but using the rear suspension from an AMT Thunderbird stock car as well as wheels and tires, fire wall and a few more miscellaneous pieces. Inspiration: Mock up: Scratch built rear coilovers: Deviating from Chrysler red: Removed inner fenders and stock suspension points: Turn signals and door handles are shaved, and while the 1:1 does not have this the side vents are opened. I'm trying to build a lower valence without compromising the look of the nose cone, which will be my first major scratchbuilding effort. So far it is okay, but I'll have to get it glued in place before I can determine it a success. The only thing I'm not sure about it the interior. At first I was just going to glue sheet plastic over the seats to simulate an aluminum panels interior but I don't know if I should open up the interior bucket to reveal the rear wheel wells, as you would find on a car with all interior panels removed. My last thought for now is in the name of sacrilege and pro touring to convert the head lights into fixed, recessed buckets instead of leaving the headlight covers as is and just throwing a black decal over them. Should be straight forward and not that difficult, I just don't know how it would affect the overall feel of the car. Thoughts?
  11. What tires do you use for kits like the HD? The best thing I've done for BBS wheels is to get lucky on a parts box containing three full sets for the Porsche GT1. $4! I could really only see spending huge money other than that
  12. Thanks. While full detail is preferable, I wouldn't turn away a subject simply because it isn't available in full detail.
  13. Between moving, totaling my car, buying a new one, getting a new job, things have been crazy but I've made a few decent purchases. I did find a slightly started C6R on ebay for 21 shipped. After that I ordered the Aventador and McLaren GT3 from hlj, and two oop Tamiya JGT NSX kits from another ebay seller. I've got a Sauber C9 and a Porsche 935 on order now. Not quite sure where to go from here. Most of the other kits I'm looking at are still somewhat available, so I may start going by earliest release date. On a separate note - What is the general quality of Hasegawa kits? They have some subjects I'd like and are generally 10-15 dollars cheaper than Tamiya offerings.
  14. I have this exact kit pinned to do as a street model. Something akin to the Nismo GTR-LM from the Gran Turismo series. Yours looks the part.
  15. The decals do look quite intimidating, but they look as though you pulled it off quite well.
  16. Great job, I'm pretty sure you have no choice but to now do Clarkson's Miata.
  17. Is this the one that comes with two sets of wheels or is that the fujimi kit?
  18. After some more research I narrowed this week's purchase down to the Aoshima Aventador, Mobil 1 NSX, or the Fujimi McLaren. I was pointed to fredsmodelworldonline and promptly ordered a sealed F40 Competizione, a Countach LP500S in the parts bags (both tamiya) and a parts box for the 911 GT1, with 12 wheels and tires. Total price shipped - $40. Next purchase will likely be the Aventador and McLaren at the same time to save on shipping.
  19. An excellent study in Ferrari V12's. They both look awesome so far
  20. Low stock....does aoshima have a habit of continuing production runs or is this pretty much the only time to get it?
  21. Simply heart stopping. Looks unreal and real at the same time!
  22. Looks outstanding. I enjoy the creativity it took to put this together.
  23. Will the BMW Z8 be a repop of the previous revell version?
  24. Found a great deal (considering how many I could find for sale) on ebay so I took this advice and pulled the trigger. Less than $23 shipped! The box was opened but parts still in bags. We'll see in the coming days.... I've been going through my list and comparing prices through ebay, amazon, hobbylinc and hlj just to get a feel for market trends among the different kits. It looks like one of those four usually have stock and usually at better prices than tower hobbies or any other of the main sites. Hobby search is comparable in price to hlj, but the shipping is upper teens.
  25. What scale is that? Looks great!
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