mountaindewd

No! No!, send them to me before you go and do that. That would make me happy. Les Thanks for the comments!

You should be able to resize them on your photo site. Do you use Photobucket? Les

Rick, That is looking great. Any chance you could post bigger pics? 800 x 600 is a good size, just right for the screen. Les

Kostas, Thanks for the comments. The designs are original. Les

Yes sir. It is actually a washer/dryer combo. I have a scratched and then cast rooftop AC for it also if I ever break down and paint it. Les

Second is a Mack C600. Started with the AMT DM 600 and added the conversion from AITM. This was my first resin build, so I didn't do much as far as detail, at least to the frame. I included steer wheels from AITM and tires from Mo'luminum. I also scratchbuilt the floor and dash as well as the mirror frames. You can see it's a no frills build but it turned out nice and clean. Les

Here are a couple of builds previously done. First is my RG Peterbilt 359 Super Cruiser. I stretched the frame, plumbed the engine and scratchbuilt the bumper and fuel tanks in addition to modifying the grille and headache rack/cabguard. The sleeper was all scratchbuilt including the whole interior. I also stripped all of the chrome(except the wheels) and replaced it with Alclad chrome as well as applied my first ever custom two tone paint job. Les

I'd like to say Thanks for the comments everyone. I had fun building the 378. I am now underway on my next build. I'll post pics as it progresses. I am going to change the title of this thread and post all of my builds here starting with a couple past ones yet to be posted here. Thanks again, Les

I agree with Tim! I've yet to be disappointed by either. Les

You guys might check this place out. Looks like some interesting stuff and could be alot of fun. http://www.microstru.com/index.html Les

A thought. I have made lights(clear lenses w/o detail) for builds before using epoxy. You just have to make a box/frame/form shaped to fit in the space allowed on your particular build. Once that is done, mix up some epoxy and fill the box. Let the epoxy cure and then carefully tear apart the box and you'll have a clear frame that can be lit like toys you see with working lights. A light source against one end allowing the light to pass through the clear frame and exit at the point you want like headlights or dash gauges. Paint the whole frame except the areas where light is to exit, probably white since it reflects light best. You could do this for a lit dash, headlights, taillights, radio, etc. Just make sure when making the frame, you have enough room available for the light source like a grain of wheat bulb. You can also mix food coloring with the epoxy to change the color of light passing through the finished frame. I hope this is explained well enough to understand. Les Update: I forgot about this link I came across awhile back. Could have some possibilities here. Check out the Experimenter Kits. http://www.microstru.com/index.html

Kostas, I am no expert with resin but I have heard others say they submerge the parts in warm water to adjust and reset the resin. Then, submerge in cold water to hold the shape. Although it is not resin, I did this with my Pete 378 kit hood and it worked fairly good. Do not use hot water!! Les

Hello Kostas, Welcome. Nice builds you have. Looks like the T2000 will need a little massaging. Is that a De Elegant conversion? Les

Cool art! Some of those remind me of Trosley(Car-toons). Les

I'm gonna have to say real considering the front tire squatin' and the drivers door being open with what looks like someone crawling in or out of it. Les

Finished this up over the weekend. To recap, I replaced the chrome with Alclad polsihed aluminum, stretched the frame and added a third drive axle as well as the sleeper from the 377 kit. I also scratchbuilt the headache/storage rack and added a 2 1/2 inch lift to the suspension followed by tires from KFS via Sourkrauts. Les

Could you use BMF to mask it? Apply the BMF, draw the pattern and cut it out. You can use a toohpick to remove the unwanted squares. Of course you would probably have to clean off some glue before painting. Just a thought. Les

What states make up Tri-State? They wouldn't be Tennessee, Georgia, N. Carolina or Alabama. Les

chuckyr, Howards mesh isn't the same. Here's a pic of the mesh we're refering to. Notice the oval shaped holes, same as the shape of the PB logo.

I use Super Clean. It's a concentrated degreaser you can pick up at auto parts store or Walmart. It comes in a purple 1 gallon jug. MAKE SURE YOU USE LATEX GLOVES!! Since it is concentrate, it is not good for your skin. Dries it out real bad and can probably make it peel. It wouldn't hurt to use a mask also 'cause the vapors, much like most chemicals, aren't good for the respiratory system or use it outdoors if you have it open for a prolonged amout of time. Les

What Dave stated above about the short wait time between gloss, clear and Alclad is news to me, I'll certainly try that next time. Thus far, I have let the gloss base dry for at least a day before shooting the Alclad and have been moderately happy with the results. Noname, what I see on your parts looks to me like you put too much Alclad on(coat too heavy), I could be wrong. I have had this happen a couple times. Like Dave said, mist multiple light coats. If you have the testors air brush or something similar, close the nozzle a bit till you almost can't see the spray exiting the tip. Spray it on a piece of cardboard or paper to check if it is coming out. Just my opinion, Les

I was at Hobby Lobby today and they had one for 39.99. Les

Any specific part you're reffering to? Dashes can be painted(gauges, buttons, etc.) or some kits come with decals you can apply for detail Details such as clipboards, laptops, magazines and such can be scratchbuilt from raw materials or purchased through aftermarket suppliers. Some kits as well as suppliers offer decals for uppholstery replication, though not real common. This is the interior in my PB 378. The dash is a decal supplied with the kit for the gauge and switches detail. The rest is paint. Here is a link to Kurts(turbo590) Freightliner. The computer is a cast resin item you can get from the link he supplied. The screen, I believe is a reduce shot of a screen printed on decal paper and applied to this one. The clipboard on the dash is available aftermarket. It has a photo reduced freightliner brochure on it. http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=16686 I think the best thing is to look at pics of 1:1 vehicles and use your imagination for replicating different details Here are links to other sites that have alot of talented builders that are always willing to lend a hand. http://rustycab.proboards.com/index.cgi http://pete389.proboards.com/index.cgi Hope this helps. Any other questions, shoot 'em to us, you'll get an answer. Les

oldskoo, Brad is no longer doing the casting. Everything Brad had, including Matt's stuff, is being cast by Budd Ricker at this site now. He is just getting into it, so, he may not have everything up yet. http://riversedgeresins.com/home

There's a thought.... ....and I think you are the perfect candidate to make this request too. Les