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Brizio

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    Fabrizio

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MCM Ohana

MCM Ohana (6/6)

  1. Now the engine guard, that can be use in heavy offroad.
  2. I lie the first from the 60's, it had also a parachute. There are photos online about it.
  3. Thank you Joe! Is not a common vehicle/scale. People that build military usually prefer 1/35. It is fun to build and upgrade.
  4. Now the fun part. The footrest basket from the kit is very minimal and not very accurate. So I dedided to remake it out of metal. Made also the pedals and the trotte level. The pedals are only in place for the photo, I'm going to attach them after paint. I
  5. First to be build is the tubolar chassis with the cargo area mount. Motor and axles are next, this will give some rigidity a the structure. The wheels will steer, and I'm planning to not glue them. Not that will play with it but I think is a cool detail. Also I painted the whole chassis, later will add dirt and apply a wash. For the steering mechanism I add some oil, so move freely. Wheels and tires. I add some details, like the center bolt, air valve and hooks. The M274 can be lifted and transported using these hooks.
  6. Few months ago I started this it. This is a old kit, produced from ITC, Ideal toy Corp., from New York. The kit is in 1/15 and it is pretty cool because the steeryn system wors. All the 4 wheels steer. The M274 was a 4x4x4, 4 wheel drive, and 4 wheel steering. The kit came with a classis M40 rifle. I bought this kit years ago from a estate sale, and in the box there are two kits, one already started and is missing the instructions. Not a big deal, since there is a very simple machine. Here the boxart. Here all the parts.
  7. The kit is not the full kit that is shown in the photo. Is missing all the bolts for the control arms and the support rods for the rear spoiler. I contacted the seller twice because he didn't reply the first time. When he reply, he says that the kit does not have those parts because to tiny to print (the kit has the wheel stud printed, those are tiny too), and that if he were build the kit he would use some metel pin or wire. And bor the bolts to use some photo etch. I reply to him, but he never answer. To me this is very misleading. You shows a kit with all the parts, and is not. In the description of the kit also there is no mention of the missing parts. If I knew there was missing parts, was a different story. Also because this is a commission kit, and I would have saved 20 days and not get behind to build it. Luckly the person that commission it, and gave me the link to buy it, understand the situation. Another thing about this "kit" is that came with coilovers and some regular shocks, for what, I have not idea. Make you think... Also the seats are very small, they looks like 1/32scale. This maybe has to do with who design it.
  8. True on both. Another trick I used in the past, is to put pins where you can. After glueing the parts together, I drilled a hole like 0.02mm and glued a same diameter wire. In some area works, I know your kit is very small and maybe only few parts can be secured this way. But when you have the main parts secured with pins, like chassis, suspension, the rest can relay on the glue alone. You can also try to brazing the withe metal, with a torch. There are some small butane torch that can be handy. I never try it, because the laser welder is cleaner and faster. I f you have some white meta spare parts, It would be a interesting idea to see the results. I can also look if I have some withe metal left over that I can send you.
  9. Recently I received some old transkit, and they have white metal parts. Few transkit have a rollcage, and I was wondering the same, if was possible to soldering insted to use CA glue. I cleaned up the parts, because the flashing. But since these transkit are old, rare to find, I opted to laser weld all the rollcage parts. It works great and is pretty solid. I welded different material, even diecast. It could be tricky, but it is doable. As soon I start to build this kit, I'm going to post photos.
  10. Thank you Anton. Some parts could be little difficult to understand their placement. Since there is no instructions. You have to look the photos over and over, also photos of the real car. It is all fun!
  11. Finally some progress on this one. I almost forgot this kit. The chassis is completed, I redid the shocks, adding a real metal spring, and also modified the front hubs, so now the car can steer.
  12. Revell chrome paint is great! I did some test last year and very happy with the result. Also can be spray on non prepped parts (parts with no primer). They sell it on Amazon for $37,99 and free shipping.
  13. Thank you Bruce! It's going to be a fun project!
  14. Sorry I forgot to reply. The seller is madmanmodels. I notice the seats on the Hoonicorn that were way to small. Maybe they did them that way to fit inside the car. Cheers
  15. Finally after the bad experience with the "kit" from madmammodels, found a 3D file and got the body off the printer last week. This week I should be able to get all the parts. Here the car The body printed
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