sjordan2

Speaking of Alclad, can you use a brush for small parts and things like chrome trim? If so, is there a special technique or a difference in how much thinner is used?

Great issue, lots of good stuff. The section on weathering the Fordson tractor is quite informative, and it's nice to see shots of builds by Romell and John Teresi in the contest section (plus a shot of John).

http://s1010.photobucket.com/albums/af224/chipsmodelcar/Instructions/69%20Charger/?action=view&current=6.jpg&currenttag=69+Dodge+Charger#!oZZ1QQcurrentZZhttp%3A%2F%2Fs1010.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Faf224%2Fchipsmodelcar%2FInstructions%2F69%2520Charger%2F%3Faction%3Dview%26current%3D1.jpg%26currenttag%3D69%20Dodge%20Charger

Just to add to Harry's post, these kind of Evergreen and Plastruct building materials for dioramas are most easily found in hobby shops that also cater to model railroad enthusiasts, such as HobbyTown USA.

Those Rolls instructions certainly look easier to follow. As for using sewing thread, what kind would you use? Wouldn't regular thread get a bit frayed and fuzzy? In my case, I intend to paint the wheels and wires, so the wire would probably work best for me.

He probably doesn't have the personel to proof the titles. (But this appears to be an Israeli website, so English would not be his first language.)

According to the article, you can use Kinect, (an inexpensive 3-D scanner and Xbox accessory), as a replicator to digitize your prototypes. Don't ask me how it all works, I'm just a messenger.

Build a desktop 3-D printer kit to make pieces up to 5" per side, starting at $1,299. http://www.nytimes.com/2011/05/14/arts/design/makerbot-is-a-new-3-d-printer.html?pagewanted=1&_r=1&ref=arts http://www.makerbot.com/

A continuing definition of awesome. You must be getting low on Alclad by now.

No kidding. That's why I said it could be robbed for parts, and I certainly wouldn't have one for a display model.

I have no idea how often the owners of this type of car scrub down their frames, but after a few weekends of this kind of treatment, I would think there would be a certain amount of weathering, especially without a windshield.

My question is, with all the aftermarket suppliers out there who provide a multitude of parts, and with the frequency with which this issue is addressed among modelers, why are we left to figure this stuff out for ourselves? Why can't someone provide reasonably realistic hinging kits for this purpose? Seems like something that isn't that hard to design.

Before John answers, I'll just say the source is "genius."

Even so, nothing beats the continuing pleasure of following a work in progress daily, regardless of your choice of forum. Viewing a build journal after the fact doesn't have that kind of interest. Otherwise, it should be in the "On the Workbench" section if only one can be chosen, since that will interest a much wider audience.

In this case, dual posting makes sense to me, Mark. I'm sure there are other members like me, who only visit the topics they're interested in. It's certainly appropriate for the Drag Racing forum, which I never visit, and I would never have seen this if it weren't also in the On the Workbench forum.

Just a question for Future users. Apparently, when used as a clear topcoat, it's easily removed with ammonia-based products such as Windex. Has anyone had long-term issues using it as an intermediate barrier coat between paints? I've heard it's also good as a barrier coat to prevent bodies molded in red from bleeding into paint.

http://www.google.com/search?tbm=isch&hl=en&source=hp&biw=1368&bih=774&q=fujimi+chaparral+2d&btnG=Search+Images&gbv=2&aq=f&aqi=&aql=&oq=

Yat Ming makes a 1/24 diecast Eleanor. You might be able to rob it for parts. http://www.spencer1984.com/serendipity/index.php?url=archives/414-124-Eleanor-Diecast.html&serendipity[cview]=linear

Looks like the star of "Duel."

Actually, I did exactly that in my 30-year-old build, with oil leaking from the oil pan gasket!! If I had a display case, I would have put oil drippings under the engine.

The batteries go under the rear seat bottom and require special metal contacts, and probably a bit of soldering. Not worth it, in my estimation.

I was thinking that it might be difficult to keep a video camera steady when getting different shots of a model, but it occurred to me that you might plant a camera on a tripod and put the model on a turntable, where you could shoot it from different heights and angles as you moved around it.

After the enclosed motor was discontinued pretty early on in the history of this kit (about 1972), you could order a 3v motor from Airfix. If you look at the instructions, I think the gears hidden inside of the engine (which I threw away) turned a driveshaft that operated the rear differential. Can't remember in detail. May need to take a closer look at the instructions.

Well, that's a very creative and masterful piece of modeling. I might say the same about the video; I haven't seen all your videos but it sure would be nice to see some actual moving video in addition to stills; that would truly add dimension to this kind of stuff.

Wow, beautiful all around. What paint did you use?