Bruno

Just finished this one! It's the MPC kit, only added spark plug wires, tire decals and the "Hodges Dodges" decals that comes from the Lindberg Dodge 330 Ramchargers kit.

I would add this; spray light coats, both primer and paint, especially if using solvent basecoats. I prefer waterborne basecoats because it is less agressive on the plastic. Now the clearcoat, here you can spray wet coats (I use 2 part urethane clear and usually spray one light coat, then one wet coat). Let the basecoat dry a few hours before spraying the clearcoat. Sometimes I use a hair dryer to help the primer/paint flash dry faster so it wont have the time to attack the plastic. But don't use the hair dryer for the clear.

Thanks everyone!

You are right, I will do this

Just finished this one, it's the AMT '74 GTX kit, used some AMT '71 Charger parts (chassis, suspension, engine/transmission, exhaust, dash,...) Decals are from Keith Marks, resin exhaust tips from Missing Link, wheels and tires from the parts box.

Those fine scratches you see could be a)sand paper scratches, not polished enough, b)too rough compound or c) too rough polishing cloth or dirt/dust in polishing cloth I sand in straight lines, then polish in swirl movement (hope you understand, my english is far from perfect...) this way I know if the scratches I see are sandpaper scratches or compound/polishing scratches. Here's how I do it; I use automotive 2 part urethane clear, which is harder to polish than lacquer, for example, I wet sand with 2000 grit sandpaper and then hand polish with 3M polishing glaze #05996 and a Scotties tissue, no wax (still, it's a good idea to use wax, I'm just too lazy...) Hope this helps.

Well I also paint 1:1 cars, and also models, both using urethane clear. I've been painting 1:1 cars for 20 years now, have not always used a respirator, even though I know I should have, anyway I'm still alive and all is well, even if I'm a smoker on top of that (I know I should quit) My point is, it's obvious urethane paints are not good for the health, just like any other types of paints. We should always use a respirator when painting. So IMO, it is safe to use urethane clears if; - you use a good respirator (double cartridge type) - spray outside or in a garage. I don't and will never spray any type of paint in the house. All the spray painting is done in the garage, with a fan running to send the fumes outside. Also, remember, we are not painting 1:1 Freightliners 40 hours a week all year long here, we are spraying 1/25 models once or twice a month...

Yup! Not a Mopar this time, I decided to build something else for a change. So here's the Revell '68 Firebird, built factory stock, although the color is not factory stock. Except for the spark plug wires, everything comes from the box. Paint is automotive waterborne basecoat with urethane clearcoat. I added the vinyl roof, used some evergreen strips for the moldings and seams and textured the roof with plastikote satin black paint. **Looking at the pics, I noticed the Pontiac emblem on the right side quarter panel is too high, it is now corrected. I also noticed I forgot the license plate **

If you want it in a spray can, like Harry said, there are a lot of brands out there that has satin black, but if you want brush paint, I recommend Humbrol satin black #85, that is if your local hobby shop sells Humbrol paints of course...

Awesome! Great detail work

That will be nice! You will also have to correct the tail lights on this one

:lol:

Sounds good! I don't know if it's in the plans, but what would be great is to have a new website with an online catalog, complete with all the parts from the different companys and updated as soon as new parts comes out, and a possibility to order parts from different companys all at once That would be awesome! And of course, I hope you guys will ship to Canada!

Got them on ebay. Can't remember the seller's name tho, just do a search in the model kit section for tire decals.

Very nice! Good job

Awesome! Great job!

Thanks everyone! Yes, I forgot to mention this, glad you noticed! And it's so easy to fix, just glue the nose part right at the beginning, add some putty, sand, prime and paint. The chassis is still easy to assemble after even with the nose glued on. I do the same with the AMT kits.

What can I say, other than Oustanding! Stunning! Impressive!

Thanks everyone! It's dark green with green interior. It's the stripes from the kit, only one set. I'm also thinking on using the '69 Olds chassis to build a '69 Chevelle

Hey everyone! Just finished another Mopar, I started it a few months ago, I built this one for a community project on another board, the theme is "pink", and I always thought the best car for pink color is a '70 Challenger T/A, so that's what I built. It's the old Monogram kit, with the kit stripes decals (which were still good after 28 years sitting in the box...), added some parts from the Revell 'Cuda AAR kit (firewall, wiper motor, heater hoses, some decals) I also opened the hood scoop, used aftermarket tire decals, PE hood pins, BMF... I made the "340 six pack" air cleaner decal myself. The paint is automotive waterborne basecoat, with 2 part urethane clear, and the color is FM3 panther pink.

This is an older build, one of the first I did when I came back into the hobby a few years ago. It's the AMT kit, mostly box stock, except for the wheels and tires and some added wires.

Thanks! The paint I used is automotive waterborne basecoat and automotive urethane 2 part clearcoat. The color is a Harley Davidson code (can't remember the code...). It's actually the same paint I used on my Tommy Ivo Dragster build, except I used a gray primer on the dragster, and a white primer on the Dart.

Thanks everyone! It's a nice kit, lots of flash to clean and some minor imperfections, which can easily be fixed with some putty. I guess that's normal for a resin body, but I can't compare with others because that's my first resin build. The problems I had with it, I believe are mostly caused by my inexperience with resin kits, and the fact that I used another kit instead of the one I was supposed to use as a donor kit.

Here's my first resin model, I learned a lot on this one, did some mistakes, being my first resin. I built this one using the Scale Coachworks resin transkit, which is made to be used with Revell's '69 Dart kit, but I chose to use the AMT's '71 Duster as the donor kit instead, that was the first mistake... I chose the '71 Duster because the interior looks closer to the '70 Dart interior than the '69 Dart, plus the Duster has the 340 engine I wanted. Later I found out that I still needed the glass parts from the '69 Dart kit... So the chassis, suspension, drivetrain, engine, wheels and tires, interior are from the '71 Duster, I also used a second backseat from another '71 Duster kit to build a front bench seat and used the headrests from Revell's '69 Charger.The windows, wipers, door handles and sideview mirrors from the '69 Dart. Paint is automotive basecoat with urethane clearcoat, Alclad on the bumpers, decals from Keith Marks, those decals were old and I did have some trouble with them, that is why the "Dart Swinger" emblems on the rear quarters are missing, out of the 3 emblems on the decal sheet, I was able to save only one, which I decided to use on the trunk lid.

Mike, I have a Lindberg Ramchargers 330 kit for parts, if you would prefer to have the right windshield, just send me a PM and I'll take a look, I'm 99% sure I have it.