GrandpaMcGurk

Here's another bunch of pics.....the top suits my orbs, the soon to be beer keg gas tank seems appropriate for this car. I'll get into more about the frame later...I wanted the nose in the weeds and didn't want to use a tall spring perch. I also didn't want to "Z" the frame like the back as those types of mods on the front hurt my face. So I put on my artsy fartsy hat and did a swoopy drop on the front frame rails. Yeah...I know it looks like frame horns upside down, but I'm going to run coils on this front end...not the kit buggy spring. The frame has been stretched to accommodate the TDR Jag engine. So what ya think Al? Yes, I'll post some of my old builds......at my own chosen speed, sir.

Here's a few more pics..... The hole in the rear deck is for rear frame crossmember clearance (if you are using the kit buggy spring). You could either scratch a cover for the opening or cut the one from the kit pick-up box and glue it in as a cover. The frame rails you see in the photo are the scratch built ones I'll be using for my finished model. I also scratch built a '32 inspired dash for this build as the flat "T" dash didn't exactly blow my skirt up.

Harry, Keith S. (88 proof) sent me bones many years ago. It's cool...fully articulated so it can be posed in most any position. It snaps together and is not hard plastic...it's somewhat flexible. Looks to be around 1/6th scale. I've looked for them hoping to purchase a couple more but haven't come across them anywhere. If I were to ever do a boot-hill express or lil coffin in 1/6th it would be ideal as a display item with the model. It's also crossed my mind to use the bones to construct a frame for a one off radical 1/6th chopper frame. Lot's of possibilities just lack of time....you know how that goes. LOL

Think I'll get my bud "bones" to do some of this sanding for me.

The first photo is the main floor board, you could measure and cut one from styrene but I simply modified the Big Drag floor that's included in the 3'n 1 "T" kit. The photo shows where I removed material and notched it to fit the kit frame pins for mounting the body. The second shows it in position....hold it in place and draw a line along the inside of the body to position a 1/8" strip like I did with the rear deck. The 3rd pic is the area that I need to cut another panel for. I'm not gluing the floor panels in yet because being the new floor sits much closer to the frame than the kit interior I'll need to scratch build a bell-housing cover and drive shaft tunnel....don't ya just love scratch building? Every time you make a change to the basic kit it requires changes elsewhere, that's what keeps it challenging I guess. I won't be installing a tunnel in this thread as I'm going to have this body cast in fiberglass and will be using TDR's Jag engine and trans.

I used some plastic strips to make a ledge on the inside of the body...these will allow me to mount the floor boards and have a solid glued joint. Once the floor boards are installed they will also position the body on the frame where I want it.

The seam between the kit bucket and the styrene panel "plastic welded" and sanded. No need to worry about the seam cracking as there will be a one piece outer skin added later. The exhaust pipe hole was also filled.

Jody, haven't seen any posts in your chopped Willys thread....I have the bodies boxed and was going to add some other stuff in 1/25th scale if you are going to try and put together a group build. Contact me off site so that I can get this out to you. As I said before there is no cost to you, all Rick and I ask is that you use it to help all the members and not for trade or personal gain.

I don't want to put anyone off from using aluminum and you may not be able to find it small enough for what you are doing,but I use steel brake line tubing, it's easy to bend by hand and doesn't kink or flatten as easily as aluminum. The only luck I've had with aluminum is to anneal it first to soften and then run a piece of solid core copper wire inside to keep it from flattening while bending. Like I said...this may not work for small scale projects.

Thanks Harry, I appreciate that and point taken.

In my opinion, Iwata makes and excellent product, however I use a Paasche VL. I've done everything from automotive showroom wall murals to model cars. I even use it for my illustrations. It's priced at around 100 bucks and comes with several needles and tips. Personally I like the pick-up under the brush rather than the gravity systems as they are easier for me to handle. Paint jars come in a variety of sizes and left over custom mix colors can be capped and set aside for those times when you need to touch up a boo boo. I've had it for around 10 years and other than regular cleaning and replacing a worn needle it has been maintenance free. My compressor is a large automotive type and not mobile so I have a couple of portable tanks (w/pressure regulators) that I fill and use when I'm not able to hook to the a compressor. I think when you get right down to it, any quality airbrush will give you great performance. The important thing is that it feels right and is comfortable for you to use.

Adding the tailpiece.

That's funny...LOL. I have a couple here at the digs......I'll see just how much static weight they will stand before before they give up the ghost. I'll start with a brick and move up to a cement block. Yeah, just havin' some fun, but I want to see just what it takes to explode these things into a poof of powder.

Great, didn't know that. RB Motion is class act with some of the best quality I've seen. Highly recommended in my opinion.

Rick, you didn't mention that the Muncie can be had with a SBC bell-housing or one with a TDR 426 Hemi bell-housing. I'll be needing one in 1/6th scale for my Hemi/Willys build soon. We also have a 727 auto for the Hemi.

Please do, I'm no expert nor claim to be, but hopefully I can convince a few members that have considered venturing into scratch building or large scale by doing what I can to help them avoid some of the costly mistakes I've made.....still make boo boos, but hey, that's all part of taking the "I wish I could do that" out of the equation. Like the man said...it isn't rocket science......just a learning curve.

Nice ride Gregg, stow the top and get a few spattered bugs in your teeth when you grin as the speedo passes the century mark. It's hard on the doo but feels great.

Cool......No need to tip toe around, I appreciate your input and have nothing but respect for your creative builds....besides, I don't think anyone hates sanding more than you and I do. When the dust settles let's talk a bit about getting a really good 1/8th (highly detailed) knuckle and panhead in the works?

Fair question and it deserves an answer. As you know I was a member of Large Scale Modeler many moons ago. There were some personality conflicts and to be honest with you it got down right ugly at times. There has been a long standing beef between LSM and SMC and as far as I can tell there is no resolution in sight. Frankly, I've had enough of it. I will in no way bring any of that baggage to MCM other than to answer your question. While I was at SMC most of what I did was in the form of how to and as the moderator. I'd take those builds as far as I needed to show what I needed to.... no intention of finishing them. Those were traded or given away to members. I'm no longer a moderator at SMC and post there very rarely. In an effort to avoid another who did this part or that part, the only builds I will be posting here at MCM will be totally devoid of parts cast from either LSM or SMC. I have a photobucket account and my builds have parts and bodies from both sites so they will remain private. I will use my scratch built parts, TDR parts, kit parts and MF glass bodies for the most part. So if you want to see finished models coming from my workbench, stay tuned. When this C-cab goes to the Madd Fabricator for a mold I'll be doing a scratch built stretched frame and using the TDR Jag for the engine. It will be built here at MCM....nuff said?

Nice catch Al, Yep it's an old picture from an early build I started at Scale Motorcars. It saves me a bunch of time that I can put into building instead of rebuilding a platform and taking new pics of a frame I won't be using. When I'm done with the current body it will be cast in glass before I build the finished frame. Is there a problem? The "I'm working with new parts" caption simply means I won't be building the finished car with a prebuilt kit.

You're not hi-jacking anything Rick....It's all about the models and that's why we are here. There's nothing I enjoy more than seeing what fellow modelers are doing and sharing with them. It's easy enough for me to get back to the Cab and hopefully we are inspiring others to push back from the 'puter games and let their imaginations have some room to play. Your roadster is a class act my friend. I appreaciate input from other MCM members and in no way consider it hi-jacking.

Ball's in your court Jody, I'll put it in the mail mail Monday (express mail) along with the Willys I started for the tute.....it's up to you to finish and display it here on MCM. No charges, fees or credit due. Strut your stuff.

Way cool.....the Jag heater would really add that special Ira touch! Not much real estate under the hood, it's probably going to take some foot room from the driver's parlor. I have TDR's Jag here on the bench, if you need measurements or any of that for head scratching feel free to rattle my cage.

While we are waiting for the glue to set let's cut the outer side panels. You'll need .060 styrene or laminate some thinner material to get to the thickness of the original kit body. Don't attach these yet as we have to do a couple of things first. You guys still with me? Pretty easy so far, huh? Not much to say here...glue and clamp the outer side panels on. Don't trim the back of the outer panels to match the angle if the inner panel yet.....got a tip for ya to make a stronger corner joint when we get that far. Next up will be the floor boards and rear lower panel. Once all that is done the hard part is over....the rest is even easier and you will be able to add your own special touches to the C-cab.

Do I dare say "I enjoy seeing what's being done with the ol' Willys"? I don't often work with small scale these days but I built the one on the top for a tute on another site, the panel delivery body on the bottom is one Rick started long ago and sent to me. Just food for thought.......