David G.

Unlike the first two games, there are no driveable cars in the third. But they are very blow-upable.

I can just about hear the pop and rumble of that V8 though the headers and savor the rich aroma of all those un-burnt hydrocarbons spewing from them. It has a very real feel to it.

In addition to building models, one of my other hobbies is playing video games; one of my recent favorites is Fallout 3. It's a shooter that's set in a post-apocalyptic alternate future in which nuclear energy was developed into an power source for just about everything... including cars. These images were taken from the video game Fallout 3 or from websites created and owned by Bethesda Softworks, the copyright of which is held by Bethesda Softworks or ZeniMax Media. All trademarks and registered trademarks present in the image are proprietary to Bethesda Softworks or ZeniMax Media. The use of images to illustrate articles concerning the subject of the images in question is believed to qualify as fair use under United States copyright law, as such display does not significantly impede the right of the copyright holder to sell the copyrighted material and is not being used to generate profit in this context. Images like the one above are the inspiration for my current project. I'm kitbashing this from 2 Revell kits: a 1956 Chevy Nomad and a 1958 Impala. This is the most extensive modification I've ever tried and I'm having to learn as I go along. Consequently, the progress is slow. Sorry for the old low resolution photos but I started this project in 2009. The gray panels are fuselage sections from a focke wulf moskito kit I'll post more updates as they become available. I promise better photos next time too! Thanks for your interest. Please feel free to comment David G.

In the '90s? I had a rust-bucket '72 Malibu with a dual-quad 427 Corvette engine that I ran the heck out of in the early '80s. Quite possibly the fastest car I've ever driven. I had to ease it up to about 35 mph before putting my foot into it, otherwise it would just sit there and shred the tires. Very good paintwork and detail, well worth the effort you must have put into it. Thanks for sharing the pictures, they brought back lots of memories. -D-

Thanks for all the input, guys. Are any of these currently in (re)production right now? If not, what would be the best bet for an ebay search. Make model or year wouldn.t matter so much, as long as it's something from the 50's. Thanks again, David

When I first started building model cars in the early and mid 70's several of the kits I bought and built had engines that carried a higher level of detail than any other kit I've seen. The level of detail on these engines extended to the representation of internal features. There were piston tops cast on the cylinder banks, the heads had the valve train cast on them and the crankshaft was featured prominently on the bottom of the block. These kits would be great for doing a "workshop" build in which the engine is in some state of dissambly. These were most likely 1/24 scale, though they may have been 1/25. A few years ago, I asked the "model guy" at my LHS if he remembered these kits and if they're still made and by whom. I think he had already decided on his answer by the time I started by saying "Back in the early 70's..." He essentially told me that that was "ancient history" and offered no more help or assistance than that. People here seem to be much more helpful and knowledgeable than "Mr. Hobbyshop" could ever be, so I thought I'd post this question here. Any way, I'd at least like to know if those kits were as detailed as I remember them, who made them and if they're still available. Thanks for any help you guys might offer. David

It's so much fun to do a build tike that. All the weathering and distressing seems to make the car more real to me as I build it. Looks like it'll cool when it's done, keep up the good work! -D-

Hi, Being new here myself, I'm afraid that I'm not familiar with that term either. But I can say welcome aboard and enjoy your stay. I've been a member of this community only for a short time, but I've picked up lots of helpful information ant tips. Also, be sure to check out the gallery to see some awsome builds. David

I store mine upside down, kind of packed in among other things in a drawer resting on its lid. This causes the lighter oily stuff to rise to the top (bottom) of the tube where it's out of the way. I do this with the Green Squadron Putty as well.

Except if it's during a full moon that happens to fall on the second Thursday of the month. In that case it's every 17 minutes for the 1st hour then 12 starting on the 3rd and every alternate consecutive hour until the moon passes completely through the house of Capricorn. Thanks

The funny and infuriating bit is how she sort of slinks away from the scene as if nothing happened. Sort of one of those "Dee duh daa dee dee dum" moments.

Thank you all for the warm welcomes. I've checked out the member's gallery and I'm very impressed by the quality and imagination of much of the work I've seen there. That's another one of the reasons I decided to register with this community. Of course, I also hope to better learn how do do such wonderful and detailed builds. For those who expressed an interest in seeing some of my work, earlier today I added a bit about my latest project to the member gallery. There's also some pics of things I've built over the years on my website. http://www.daveag.com/ Thanks Again, David

Hello Everybody, My name is David and I live in Phoenix. I've been into building models off and on over the years. I've built many different kinds including an N scale model railroad that I work on when the spirit moves me. But obviously, I'm currently into cars. The number of useful tips I've gained from both this forum and the associated magazine prompted me to finally register and begin participating in the community. I look foreward to sharing this wonderful hobby with all of you. Thanks, David

I have a Braun Oral B battery-powered toothbrush that I sand with. It's easy to pull the bristles out of the used replacement heads and use some RTV silicon to glue little hand-cut discs of sandpaper to them. The RTV dries adequately in about five minutes, and I can set up several grits ahead of time. That way, I just swap the heads when I'm ready to go from using 400 grit to 600, etc.