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Everything posted by wgflatliner
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ebay has a couple. http://cgi.ebay.com/MONOGRAM-MEAN-NASTY-PR...=item5ad4ac11f5 http://cgi.ebay.com/MONOGRAM-MEAN-NASTY-PR...=item56378aa768 they could be the same model though as they're both in huntington beach.
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Alright i've come to a decision. i'm going to build a 66 chevy nova pro street.
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how to remove masking tape residue
wgflatliner replied to wgflatliner's topic in Tips, Tricks, and Tutorials
could you be more specific? are you saying that i won't be able to take the paint off and respray? -
that's a pretty clean build. paint looks good, spoiler matches up pretty well, exhaust looks nice. over all good job.
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Need some input from the community
wgflatliner replied to wgflatliner's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
it appears there are two different variations of the AMT 58. Is it the one with the blue impala picture, or the red? better yet do you have a link to the specific one you're speaking of? -
dang. i have two community builds going on right now. i haven't got the model for the import drag build yet, so i may actually get interest in this. I'll take some looks at the hobby store this weekend and see what captures my eye. consider me in, but not sure on the car yet. i'm gonna be a busy man lol (time to make some display shelves? lol)
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how to remove masking tape residue
wgflatliner replied to wgflatliner's topic in Tips, Tricks, and Tutorials
well i already started soaking it in simple green as of a couple days ago. i'll take it out and start sanding it when i get a chance (not working on my street truck). i don't mind a respray as long as the end result is nice. and yes, i use the TS series paints from Tamiya. thanks for the replies and tips everybody. -
well i'm still waiting for my RX-7 to show up in the mail. once i get it i'll be getting some photos up. priority is the street truck, which i guess could technically be an import drag racer, but i'll keep them separate to keep me motivated. hehe.. i do have some ideas: this is the FD3S car with the 13b motor. custom engine parts, upgraded turbo, custom exhaust manifold and turbo routing, etc tubbing the rear slicks n skinnies wheelie bar parachute roll cage no side mirrors (less aerodynamic drag) custom rear spoiler, drag style.. i anticipate this build for sure!
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Alright so this weekend was semi-productive outside of fixing my regular car's coolant leak.. so i am getting closer and closer to completion on this truck. The truck bed is 90% done. I need to putty and sand down any holes/imperfections on the wheel wells, which were made out of styrene strips. As far as correcting the window/vent line, i had made the correction and used evergreen pieces to cover the length of the window to replace the stock trim. I have modified the radiator piece to help the hood close better, and to also route the aluminum rods through for the intercooler pipes. For the grille, i'm going with a black micro-mesh. it'll be easier to show off the intercooler that way, and looks clean. the handles were shaved, and the front cowl vents filled. The under side of it - the cuts for the wheel wells were to help line up the wheel wells. They are hidden by the outer rear sides of the truck (rear quarter panels) so will look normal upon completion. all wheel drive built about 99% as i need to finish fabricating the suspension for the front, and attach the wheels. i lined up the wheels to their drive shafts, and it has given this stance: frame not touching the ground! rear quarter shot from above: front quarter shot from above: (i did touch up the motor paint a little bit) now i seek advice: for the exhaust, i am trying to figure out how i want to run it. i could run it at a 90 degree near the rear diffs and have side exits, or i could go straight back.. or i could go at a 45 degree angle exiting at the rear tires. i plan on using aluminum rods/pipes to fab up the exhaust. what's left? soap/water clean the body parts, primer and paint. interior fabbing up the vent windows front suspension completion attach bed to frame attach interior to frame attach cab to interior/frame exterior trim/bumpers
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i like it. how about house of kolor blurple?
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all wheel drive setup 90% complete need to do paint and stuff, but right now it's about engineering it all to make it more realistic if it were really all wheel drive. i had some junk models laying around so i'm getting the wheels from the lancer evo VI, the transfer case from a rallyart evo VIII, seats from the EVO VIII, axles from the EVO VIII.
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alright, here's what i got so far: yes, i need to paint the motor and all those parts correctly, and i need to fill the hole in the top of the transmission so it's not seen. notched and filed some spots in the front of the frame for the front axles to go through. front axles mounted to the motor. wheels (the ones on the right) mocked up - i need to get some tips on how i can tub out the bed of the truck so i can fit the wheels in the back: completely sanded and smoothed truck bed with a cut-out to show off the rear diff area: i plan on doing the full paint on the bed, and putting a smoke clear plexi sheet over the top of it, or just clear. please, i need input for this - how to tub the floor of the truck bed enough to fit the rear wheels... also let me know your opinions on it so far. thanks!
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alright, due to all the drama that happened with my making another thread, i decided that yeah - i guess it'd be a good idea to post up my updates here. anyways, i got the truck and took it to work to start working on the body. it's sanded down pretty well. i still need to fix the windows for the windshield and make sure it all looks correct. at the moment i am fabricating the AWD system for it, and i have sourced at least a way to fab up the drivetrain to the front wheels. i also found some decent wheels for it. pics coming at a later time.
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i realize that's what the forum is here for. and my original intent was to eventually link the two together, so we'll see how it turns up.
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how to remove masking tape residue
wgflatliner replied to wgflatliner's topic in Tips, Tricks, and Tutorials
i suppose i'll just play it safe and strip all the paint and start over after investigating it a little further, it's apparent the paint wasn't completely cured. -
so now i'm stuck in a predicament. i see your points, now that you have actually stated why you're confronting me. Thanks for at least now telling me what the issue was instead of earlier like you could have. Yes, i accidentally missed that part of your rules, so i apologize for that. Now - is it wrong for me to seek advice specific to this model on more than one venue? if not, where would you recommend i seek advice? what if some people don't check certain parts of the forums and never see my question? so, my predicament: now that this thread exists, and it's obviously too late to delete the thread completely (not to mention there's things on the thread that i personally need for this build that i don't want to see deleted)... or withdrawl myself from the street truck build-off. either way doesn't matter to me. the truck is getting done one way or another. either option won't hurt my feelings.
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not to respond like an "azz," but i posted it up under the workbench area because this is on my workbench. if you want, i can post up simple pics in your thread.
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so what did you do for the hood fix? and what do you mean by fixing the window/vent height? could you be more specific? as far as the Awd, i'm sure i'll figure something out on that when the time comes.
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This is the first time i've ever had an issue with tamiya masking tape leaving residue, so how do i remove that residue?
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you're right, however, check this video out: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OeawOwie5Q8 yes, there's turbo lag, but with THIS truck, it's going to have all wheel drive, and would be able to launch at higher RPMs so there's no lag. even then there'd be plenty of torque to get the truck moving. i can't wait to get this one done though. also!!! the stock V8 had only 145hp and 240ish torque ratings from the factory.