wgflatliner

wait.... you're talking about model building, right? lol

hehe i'm doing the exact same kit. we'll see how she turns out! good job on yours.

thanks for the kind words everybody wait til you all see the depth charger!

nice work so far guys! the thread originator is going through some real life issues and probably won't be back on for a bit, but as i promised i'm posting it up to let you know. oh, and i'm going to start my build soon, as i'm still in "acquiring" stage. here's an idea: my subject is the 55 pro sportsman. without the chassis that came with the kit of course. i need to do a full "oil" weathering on it, along with the armor plating, bullet holes, etc. i basically did random white, gray, and black primer in spots, applied the supplied decals plus a devil decal, and did a final dull coat over it. then i opted to get a little goofy with it. i know a dragster post apocalypse car won't be able to handle the terrain, so i vied for a 1/24 scale dodge rammunition chassis! here's a basic idea of the madness with the tires. the monster truck model is a skill 3 lindberg kit, and it has a ton of detail. i will make it fit, and i will produce some serious weaponry and other munitions to satisfy the hunger for zombie killers abroad. chicken wire for window mesh. armored windows with a slit for the driver to see through. Custom front and rear bumpers with spikes and fog lights. rear engine. heck it'll be entertaining at least. for the record, i'm a dork for even attempting this shenanigan.

and i plan on getting the tamiya skyline w/ motor kit. you can trust me on that! i want the motor so i can put it in the car you know lol

So i got involved with a local community build with the subject being showrods. i chose a couple, one being this bathtub buggy! There was an incident with the first purchased kit, and it melted all the plastic. i won't go into details hehe.. but once i got this one, it was finished in 2 days. Enjoy! box art parts trees 2 days later: (realistic toilet paper lol)

no, it was in factory sealed box. when looking at the chassis, it has the "accurate undersurface" and throughout the instructions there aren't any instructions on building a motor. also, the hood is molded to the body.

I will say only a couple things about this kit. 1. false advertisement. 2. it says it comes with a motor, has pictures of said motor on a motor stand, but NO MOTOR!!!! 3. it's $40. 4. the instructions also say it comes with a motor, but nowhere in the instructions do you actually put together a motor - so it's not like they forgot to include said motor. 5. i'm returning it.

if they look too ridiculously big for my mazda, then they'll be too big for the eclipse. also the oldsmobile pro stock tires are too small. i'll see if i can find out which kit i got my slicks out of..

has anybody done this kit? 1:25

Well i've joined up with the only two model clubs that i know of out here in colorado: Centennial IPMS FRAM (front range auto modelers) http://www.centennialipms.org/ FRAM doesn't have a site or anything. the IPMS folks do pretty much anything including cars. I went to their first club meeting and paid for a $1 raffle (one single ticket) and won a navy attack plane (a6 intruder) shocked considering i never win anything hehe

i have an idea where i'm going with mine. going to use the 55 pro sportsman body and throw on a monster truck chassis, get some missile launchers, a tripod mounted gatling gun, smaller guns, armor, and some other stuff. i'll get most of the stuff for it at a later time as i'm putting all my efforts into the import drag build.

yikes! that's a lot of money to hand out for a cardboard gasket and a filter. i'd suggest getting a shop manual and some tools. you can do it yourself for a significantly smaller amount of money. at least i'd think so.

you have a valid point. how would one make a tire look low on air?

I have a couple questions about slicks. i'll make it short and sweet: 1. what's the white stripe on the tire for? 2. sometimes tech inspectors write stuff on tires, or it could be the pit crew. what do they typically write? or is it typically just a painted dot? 3. how do you take a slick and form it to be wrinkle wall? thanks for the help.

that's looking pretty slick. can't wait to see it finished.

Alright, i ventured into the hobby store tonight for the club build, and did a quick browsing through the models. something caught my eye. it looks old. AMT 57 chevy "pepper shaker" i looked all over every part, the box, and the instructions (which are ancient) and i cannot figure out when it was released. would anybody know when this released? the best thing is i picked it up for 8 bucks and it's only missing front tires, which i have lots of.

from what i can see it looks pretty good. here's my suggestions: headlights - tamiya makes a clear smoke color that you can get in a spray can, code TS-71 and the local hobby store should be able to get it for you. you can use that to paint to the clear headlight covers. spray the inside of the lens, and make sure to mask the outside of it. the end result is a glossy smoke look. as far as the headlights themselves, i'd have to see what they look like before they're installed so i can give better suggestions for that. what i did for my skyline is i painted the actual "bulbs" a clear blue color to make it look like the HID blue headlights. you can do the same thing for fog lights. taillights - it's a long process due to the way the tail lights are on the mustang, but would work: use super thin tamiya masking tape, mask off the raised sections as best you can. then use a toothpick and dip the tip of the toothpick in a silver/chrome paint and paint in the recessed areas. use a clean towel to clean up any paint that gets where you don't want it. once the silver is dry, then paint in tamiya clear red. the silver gives the clear red the look of a red clear plastic tail light, and the chrome helps the color pop. the reason i say to use super thin masking tape is because you can mask off and paint multiple sections at a time, and once the paint dries you can take the masking tape and work different sections. make sure to give your car's paint about a week or so to cure before masking it off, unless you have a dehydrator which would lower the time to 3-4 days. too soon and putting masking tape on the car might mess up the paint.

this right here means potential for an awesome finished result. i'd like to see more participation too.

here's my inspiration, although not a 3 rotor http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=859856

an extension is up to you. nice progress btw

ok i attempted to follow the turbo tutorial and came out with something that works fine for my first attempt at making a turbo. I will file out some of the edges to make it more defined, and also i will need to find out where the oil lines go on this motor, as far as the oil feed to the turbo and the oil drain which should be easy. anybody know where the oil feed is for this motor for the turbo? here's some progress pics: here's the engine mounted on the tube chassis. the exhaust is going to go off at a 45 degree angle towards the side of the car and exit at the side vent (turbo side) near the fender. it will be made of metal tubing and i'll make the exhaust tip the same shape as the vent, and possibly do some weathering. i should have a basic interior started by wednesday, and getting everything to fit right. once i have that figured out, i'll work on painting the body. need some help though: are there any detailed pictures of a nitrous setup? I'm talking everything from the trunk to where it feeds into the intake. any help would be appreciated. also, thanks for looking!

thanks billy!

thanks for the kind words guys

i laughed at the octopus on the flathead comment. hehe everybody's builds are coming along nicely. keep it up! as far as my mustang, it'll be ready for primer pretty soon.