wgflatliner

my first model as a birthday gift: yeah it was pretty bad. the paint was so thick it never dried even after a month lol..

i was busy at work googling stuff. i got to looking and found the tamiya Ferrari F-40 race car sponsored by Shell - for only 25 bucks direct from Tamiya. so i purchased it. if anybody wants a good deal on the kit, do a google search for Ferrari F40 Competizione - Monte Shell and click on "shopping" and you'll see it for sale for about 28 bucks brand new. it also includes the photo etch set and some other goodies. http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/item.php?product-id=24284

yes, this helps a ton! thanks!

i went to a craigslist thing today up in denver. picked up a 59 impala hard top (yay!) and some tamiya kits - the toyota supra, lotus europa special, and mustang cobra r

today i picked up a re-issue of ed "big daddy" roth's outlaw and a 16th scale gullwing benz from minicraft. it's the 1955 300SL gullwing.

my personal choices (usually winamp shoutcast): chronix radio heavy metal jazz ambient chill techno sometimes itunes: mostly rock. right now: JOURNEY! donnnnnn't stop... belieevin....

i'm working on that same exact accord. my plans are to do clear over the colorful blocks. the sponsorship decals (has the numbers, sponsors, etc) i plan on putting on top of the clear coat. the end result looks like the colored blocks are part of the paint, and the decals that are supposed to look like decals indeed look like decals. i hope it turns out good! as far as trying to use paint to paint on what would be decals, that's more than likely going to give you thicker edges than the decals. that's been my experience anyways.

i actually like the front lip on it. it looks like it flows well with the car. good job on it!

nice job on weathering the body of the 53. i would try to weather the rims and tires too, if it were my build either way nice job.

Paint: testor's one-shot lime gold engine: 59 caddy valve covers, PE wire looms, aluminum velocity stacks, aluminum pulleys this was a pretty straight forward build. it's my first time using one-shot paint and also my first time attempting wet sanding and polishing (and i love it!) It is also going to be for a 50's diner build for my local club. enjoy!

well the LHS got a brand new shipment in today with a bunch of stuff. time to go make myself spend money.

i know it's coming slowly but here's an update. it's still needing some things like clamps for the "silicone couplers" which i'll probably do from BMF. i am also needing to make a radiator support or something, plus the strut tower bar. then i'll be moving on to the interior to button that up. this is my first time doing a complete one-off and i understand not everything lines up perfectly but i really don't care at this point. all four wheels are on the ground anyways, here's my update:

let's see: 1. monogram 65 impala SS 2. a new paint carrier 3. honda civic 2 in 1 (i might make a "the most riced out car community build" some time - so if that type of thread pops up, remember it was MY idea) 4. acura integra type R 5. monogram 59 impala hard top 6. 60 impala 7. tuner series revell subaru impreza wrx sti 8. 67 charger 9. 68 charger RT 10. 70 dodge coronet super bee 11. JACCS honda accord from tamiya 12. axia skyline gtr gr. a from tamiya (includes motor!) 13. ammo stuff for the post apocalypse car 14. testors one shot sprays (assorted colors) 15. model master custom lacquer system ultra gloss clear coat (awesome stuff, takes a week to dry w/o a dehydrator) 16. photo etched stuff for the impalas and anything else i could get my mitts on this is all the stuff i got since the last time i posted on this thread. i seriously need to get out of acquisition mode.

pff. all those solid axle "hummers" are weak. it's all about this beast of a hummer.

i know this zinger is real.

for what it's worth, i voted for ron burgandy.

This is Ron Burgundy, proudly reporting once again for Channel 4 News. Today's story is one of the more remarkable things ever to happen to San Diago or even the world. But in order to properly retell it, I'm going to need some help from my co-anchor, Miss Veronica Corningstone. You stay classy, Planet Earth.

ok i need to get busy on mine some time soon. heh

after reading his post on "legwork and research and hands on research" i'm starting to think maybe he's talking about the following: the person who is building the model should research different leather materials, AND find out what's available in their areas to see if they can get something that would suit THEIR desire in the fabric thickness, pattern, color, etc. it doesn't sound like he's stating "here's what leather seats look like. find leather and figure it out yourself." maybe some people just have a poor sense of interpretation? i dunno. anyways, back to building models *cough*

just go buy the DVD's. thanks. ok i'll be a little more positive with this. edit: i understand that primer has to have a certain amount of bite for paint to stick to it. I am simply speaking from watching the DVD, and applying that exact technique to a BMW i'm working on right now. i didn't sand the primer as it was smooth anyways, thanks to the body work. I did scuff up the plastic as i had outlined earlier, and the primer laid on super smooth, so i'm speaking based off my own experience. Please don't take everything i say into offense, and please don't feel that you need to step in and try to "correct" me on everything, especially suggestions. Nobody else on the thread even attempted to explain the WHOLE sanding process but myself, and when i do, people like yourself just jump in and say i'm doing it wrong. Wait until my BMW is done, and we can base my wrongness on the results of the paint job. sound fair?

there comes a point in time when nobody really cares. we're here to learn, are we not? true claims, false claims, insurance claims.. blah blah blah.

is your caps lock button broke? on a more semi serious point: i thought i joined what i thought would have been a "mature" forum so i don't have to read through all the childish banter and nonsense. i have been mistaken. at least a little bit. i was looking forward to seeing this new trick that i could have done with interiors, then some people decide to derail the train and so-on. Dave is really good at what he does, no matter how much people talk down on his work. He's better than ME, but i look to learn so i can at least achieve his level of skill. *edit* not all people have met him or talked to Dave in person, so not everybody talking trash is gutless. There is a very valid point that can be made through all instances of life. You may think you're the best at a specific talent, but no matter what you think, there's always going to be somebody out there who's better than you at the same thing. NOBODY is perfect. NOBODY is exempt from that rule. I guess what i'm trying to say is that this forum should be a place that is family oriented, friendly, welcoming, and a place where we can all come together and do what we love. We all love car models. WHY ELSE ARE WE HERE??? i am here to learn new things. I love looking at other work to see what has been done and how many hours are put into some projects so i can apply that knowledge to my own projects. I don't know about you but i think if people are trying to call each other out over something as stupid and petty as this, then they have insecurity issues, or suffer from elitism - carefully picking apart everybody's work AND FOR WHAT? what is there to gain? take... off.... the blinders.... Dave - keep doing what you're doing, ignore the people who have nothing good to say. I want to learn things from you, especially the topic of this discussion. You are very good at what you do, and plenty of people can learn from you. To the negative nancies: If you can't say anything nice, shut up and go build some models.

i typically have an order of importance list written out before i start. in most cases i like to start with the motor first, or at least the basics of it. More often than not though, i prefer to get body work done and paint started because while the paint is drying/curing, you can be working on something else. i consider it maximizing efficiency. i like shiney things so if all i have left to do is wait for the paint on the body to dry, i know that somehow some way, i'm going to want to touch it because that's the final piece to the "puzzle" if you will. other times i'm searching google images for the car and try to use reference photos and compare them to what i have and try to go that extra scale mile.

my new process (thanks to donn yost's dvd set - hehe): before i primer, i sand off the mold lines, and wet sand the body with the polishing kits (1,500 grit to 4,000 grit along with 3 separate cloths at 6,000 8,000 and 12,000.) Make sure you start from 1200 and work your way to 12,000. once this is done, the plastic will look shiny, which is ok. you don't have to spend a lot of time per grit, and you don't have to use much pressure to get it right. The best thing to do is get a practice body to practice on. metallizer's spray paint works good for a primer.. you will likely see a verrrry smooth primer application if the body prep is done right. After the body is straight and primered, then start your color paints. when it's done, do the same wet sanding process, then follow up with novus 2, then novus 1. i'm kinda tempted to personally go through the whole wet sanding stage after every coat of primer and paint just to ensure a smooth paint job.. not sure if that would be wasting my time though :| if you want more tips on this kind of stuff, i strongly recommend ordering Donn Yost's dvd set. it's definitely worth it.