Cato

A possible alternative is .005" baking pan aluminum. I used it a lot on the GT-40 and it's very cut-able and bend-able. And yes Marvin's rims will be beauts but they are a little behind their announced availability date. Also mega-bucks but that goes without saying with those guys.

^^^Just beautiful. Painting makes a lot of the laminate construction of the rim 'go away'. Thanks again and keep it going-can't get enough of your detail work. Thinking of Marvin's tires?? These actually look quite good.

I stand by my thought that these new ones may not be as 'affordable' as we'd like. I'm thinking the $400 to $600 range. Remember, Tamiya gets that for smaller (1/12 scale), all plastic car kits. Their 12" P-51 is $200!

Thanks Har-I never thought of file card soaked with CA....brilliant and effective. Might work on a RR huh?? Wheel pic please??

Great explanation Harry-thanks. This kit turned you into the Mad Scientist eh?? I'm gonna hold you to those pictures, so keep that charger handy...

Not so fast pal; howja do that?? Pics and description please. And Harry, the wire wheels; a close shot please and how did you get the paint to cover evenly past the spokes onto the hubs???

BMF works fine but you've got to trim it tiny,

You knocked it out of the park Harry. It's wonderful to see a substantial build on here. Now make a glass case for it like mine! The wheels in black are perfect-I love painted wires. I also love your 'in-the-day' build philosophy-not the over-restored, toy looking things we wind up with today. I'm also assuming you left out the rods, pistons and brake shoe trivia that Pocher goes nuts over?? Now where's all that gingerbread you bought from Marvin and Jorge?? Fess up!!

I saw his 1:1 250 TR in person at a local shop being lightly refurbished in the late '80's. It is flimsy and scary to sit in much less drive. It does have some beautiful and delicate fittings but the V12 is the whole reason for the car. Worth how many million today??

Skip-put DOWN the Cabernet bottle,,,

'FAIRY POWER SPRAY",,,,,,????

Second that motion!

Skip gives a detailed helpful answer. I'd add that the BEST cleaner for my brushes is auto body enamel reducer. Removes lacquer or enamel residue. After a wipe in lacquer thinner, dip in reducer, stroke out on paper towel. It will remove more than the lacquer thinner, even though the brush looks clean. And when painting, just try to use the least brush possible and still hold a wet edge when dipping into paint. Coat out on a hard surface (I use a small ceramic tile square) to shape wet brush. Don't load paint into the ferule.

Scale-you look a bit pale. Get out in the sun more.

This or Bare Metal Foil: http://www.scalehobbyist.com/catagories/Paint_and_Construction/MIC00000008/product.php?s=4&t=2&u=0

I'm pretty sure they'll come back in 1/8 scale-it's what made them distinct and famous. Also easier to attain that level of detail. I also don't expect pricing much below the average of their early kits on eBay. I see their new stuff being in the $400-$600 range. Especially if they use the same type materials, like steel, brass, stainless, nickel plate-all materials more expensive than they were 30+ years ago. PE parts would also rate premium pricing-they didn't have that process for their early kits. Realize that Tamiya's Enzo is $400 street price and it's a smaller scale with less diverse material content. I'm assuming the new technology they hint at like CAD and 3D RP printing will be employed. They're currently the most expensive ways these days-look at the stupid price of a TDR complete Cobra. I doubt if they sold 20 of them. And Pocher won't have to waste time on hand-layed fiberglass bodywork. Lastly, if a MFH 1/25 kit is $250, what would it cost in 1/8? And MFH cast parts in a cheaper material and don't have to include machined fasteners in their kits. It would be nice if Pocher offered replacement or upgraded parts for their early kits. Like Tamiya's upgrade sets. If the molds haven't been destroyed, it's cost effective and they'd sell a bunch to those current kit buyers searching for missing parts for uncompleted and tampered-with kits. Hornby isn't starting this game just to sell giant $200 kits. Jus' sayin'...

Gonna hound you 'til you do.

Only 4 of us are assuming Harry. There's not a big Pocher following on here...

Nah-keep wife's car out and park it n the garage!

A carbon fiber 540K?? 3D resin Royale??

Elmers or Micro Krystal Klear-in small amounts.

You must be excited-you double-posted!!

It is not general 1:1 practice to run a vacuum advance distributor with a tunnel ram intake. If you don't remove the advance diaphragm, paint a little black tip on the nipple.

Use a Q-tip to burnish (apply pressure by rubbing )and press firmly.

Erik-by now you have several options to solve your problem. Replicating the Ford OE center pan is the best as Ace shows. For the record, here's why you don't want to just turn the pan around as you did. Here's my Canton road race pan and you can clearly see the flange has the jog on the driver side for the filter boss. The rectangular opening is for the pick-up and the trap doors retain the oil in all attitudes of the race car. Stock street cars have / need none of this and are just open front to rear. The windage tray is why Ace's solution of an inner flange to bolt bracing to is impractical on a race engine such as mine. The windage tray requires 2 gaskets and the fewer the better. As I said, his solution for an extended pick-up tube (which would require 2 gaskets) is fine for a mild street engine-no tray needed. ">