Cato

Is this the one you mean Billy? http://www.tcpglobal.com/Customshop/itemdetail.aspx?itemno=KUS+PSB-8618-4Z I'm guessing it's a catalyzed urethane-am I right? Don't see it in the description.

I've looked into Wicked Colors Jet Black suggested by The Chief and like it. I'm recovering from eye surgery so progress is slow. Starting the model is still months away and I'm just gathering info and materials slowly.

The simplest effective way to remove the schmutz is to use 1:1 spray detailer with a microfiber cloth. Hurts nothing, leaves a smooth clean surface.

They don't make avatars for the stage of life I've reached...

-but a MUCH better avatar! Who's your 'Friday'??

EEeeeeeeeeeewwwwwwwwwwwwwww-gross! Ya mean to tell me that at your skill level and every trick on earth in that build, ya couldn't out-paint black plastic?? Nahhhh-ain't gonna believe it. You're just getting lazy in your old age.

CHALLENGE! Pocher Benz-black plastic!

The front page has a button saying: 'desktop app'. I don't use a mobile device for the web so dunno.

^^^Works great on 1:1 headlight covers too, after 2400 to 4000 grit.

I'm moving away from P'bucket. Came across this site which has a much cleaner user interface without the social tampering. It seems rather minimalist but I like that. Anyone have experience with it?

BTW-per a discussion in another thread; how come these guys can use the full GY logos on the tires?

This one works very well, cuts but does not kill: http://www.meguiars.com/en/automotive/products/g17216-ultimate-compound/ Like any compound, you've got to mind the edges but it's not savage. And yes the Perfect-It system works very well too.

:lol: No-from the crafty Americans who are paying those guys $150 per to make them......

Which looks like a better 'buy' than this. It's a larger scale and beautifully detailed. I wonder how much Hornby might charged if it were assembled and or diecast? Do we know if it's made in China like virtually all diecasts?

And I'd like to agree with you-except the GT's still available are priced at $3500 and $4000! Surely your take is right-but they've inflated the entire product line.

All the automotive products will work.

Exoto announces pre-orders for this: http://www.exoto.com/s/1/ProductList.aspx?Language=en&AttributeType=Category&AttributeId=209 Now 1:1 Cobras are my thing-but I have trouble understanding this release. First off it's 1:14 scale-virtually no other models are that scale. Gerald Wingrove generally builds 1:15 scale but that's as close as I can remember. All their other Cobras are 1:18 and have been done to death. Kyosho did the 1:12 scale car and that made sense because of other popular 1:12 cars like the GMP GT-40's and Trump's kit. Next head-scratcher is $1795. Ten years ago I paid ONE THIRD of that price for their 1:10 GT-40-which is a very impressive diecast. But now I just looked on their 1:10 page and see 'my' car is retired and its last selling price was $6000! But back to the topic-Exoto's 1:18 line of Cobras is now around the $800 range-and in my view they're really nice $250 models. Now no lectures about supply / demand, 'what traffic will bear' and rising inflation. Got all that. I just don't get $1800 for an odd scale, of a car that's been done better and to death. This one's not 'historic' like 3002 and shows nothing new in 427 Cobras. It would be fine if it just avoided all the standard model flaws for these things.

What's you plan for the panel lines Geoff?

No it's not a filler. It will level on a perfect surface but settle or puddle into flaws. Look-fix all the bodywork (including filler), then one coat of Future- THEN your base color coat. Yellow, gold, white-what ever you want. Wet sand then do your normal top color coats. Forget the idea of just using the bare yellow plastic to give you the pop you want in the top coat. There are much better ones to use -white or gold under reds-Ferrari uses pink primer.

Just don't-have the discipline to wait for less humidity and some better temp. I have primed indoors at 55F and brought into the house immediately at 70F. But for a solid color job-just wait. Or you'll decide to do it again after stripping. A waste.

Great tips and thanks guys. I'll investigate them.

The main question I was trying to ask was whether Monogram's yellow plastic will bleed through the lacquer paint. I've heard stories about red and orange plastic bleeding through, but I don't think I've seen anything about yellow. To avoid the issue, shoot a coat of Future on the yellow. It's a barrier. Test on yellow sprue with your chosen top color.

I'd like which ever is blackest and can clear or polish as desired. Ultimate goal is wet-look deepest black.

Who has found the black that is PURE black, no tinge of brown, gray or reds???? I mean mile-deep, pitch black. No pearl or metallic, in either model or general paint (Duplicolor, Krylon, etc). Doesn't matter lacquer or not. What is it?

Very nice build. You only forgot the oil stains from the pushrod tubes underneath. I know because I owned 3 of them...