Cato

Correct- size the case to fit open features but not way oversized. Instead of plastic, consider glass for the case. Much more clear and never rag scratches from cleaning. A picture framer would have no problem making you one and may cost around the same. Don't scrimp-you're starting with an $800 model. http://

I build my own out of picture glass and frames. You can use acrylic too if you choose. If you can build a model, you can build a case. My how-to article is published in Model Cars Magazine issue #156. Back issues are available.

I stopped sometime in the mid-70's. My claim to fame was a little lettering on Ivo's 'rainbow' FED around '68. I still have a couple of my brushes and they're in excellent shape. But I'm not; vision problems make it hard to even build models sometimes. I love One Shot for the vibrant colors right out of the can. And used in the right application, they're stunning. Thanks for the detailed help Skip.

Yes to the reducer but why the hardener? You want it to dry more quickly? Can you get it through an AB reduced to the famous '2% milk'? I also wonder about Yost's method with lacquer thinner... I see you have experience with this stuff by your RF avatar...

When I was a kid I used to pinstripe and letter using One Shot enamel paints-the stripers favorite. They're still made today but without the lead. Anyone have experience shooting these through an airbrush and what are best techniques? Is the coverage still good without the lead?

Here's the answer. When '14 ends, Force will add Morgan Lucas in T/F as a team car to weak suck Brattney and it will become an all-Lucas Oil / MAV TV outfit covering T/F and T/FC. Money is then unlimited and pro drag racing will become Don Schumacher vs. Forrest Lucas. Forget every one else winning an event except Al-Anabi (if the sheik doesn't fold his cards). You read it here first.

Stinks. You failed to put scale air in the tires or machine a complete new engine with oil leaks. And no coil springs in the seats?? Wired instruments? C'mon Harry... If you keep cutting corners like this, no LP-700 for you.

James-some constructive criticism as you asked: Make a bracket for the AC compressor. Too much texture in all the paint-use thinner paint, applied lightly. The real castings are not like that. The thickness of the fan blades should be reduced by at least half-make new ones from thin aluminum like .005" thick). Use a thin dark wash on the chrome stuff. Like stated by others-study real photos and you'll see these things.

While we're at it and not to be an ass, but that rear a/r bar snaps at the first turn. The brackets should attach to the chassis and the links to the control arms... Meticulous work and finish-typical Yost.

Just be careful on sealed blacktop driveways. Takes the sealer right off.

... and the SOHC Ford FE and Boss 429...

I already outlined some of the problem areas for accuracy Brizio. But starting with any of those kits is the same-they all are off in many ways. To have a chance, you must study accurate research and be aware that many cars shown are replicas and not correct. That's why you should stick to CSXinfo.net and Supercars.net to see original '60's cars. You must start with a small block car model and not big block. If you started with a big block car, you'd have to section .160" out of the length (in 1/25) in the body and chassis, just for openers. The doors, hood scoop, flairs, hips, windshield and all thicknesses would need serious work. And virtually all of the engines provided are junk. Although other types of models may have superior 289 engines with accurate Weber carbs. If you're up to it, ask questions as you go.

There were Hemis before the front-mounted distributors. The early 331 and 392's were REAR mounted with a ton of other differences. The front-mounted distributor began with the 426. Dual distributors were a further refinement for T/F and TF/C cars. Passing cornflakes from the web is not a service. Robert thinks he has the correct answer...

Should we assume the OP wants to build another Cobra toy? Or give him accurate information in case he wants not to be part of 'absolute zero'?

It's not and neither are Ray's examples. The front flairs on FIA's were done by sawing off the Slabside eyebrow and gassing-in a thin strip to make an extension for wider wheels and tires.. The rears were also sawn off and the panel 'bulged' to what the 427's became. Then a flare strip also added. Then there's the 'cut-back' doors-which you'd have to figure out. Remember a 427 body (CSX 3000 series) is 4" wider at the chassis than the CSX 2000 small block cars. The fenders are naturally further apart. Any of these kits yield toy-like models that only suggest a Cobra.

Ahhhhh-that's a nice 'Harry'...

Here is the information you need: http://www.csxinfo.net/289cobra/fia.htm You will have to start with a 289 small block kit and heavily modify it. Particularly the fender flairs, wheels, windshield and many small details. Study the reference before you buy and good luck.

No. A few diecasts are the best of the bunch.

All Cobras had either spline drive or pin drive 'knock-offs', except a few drag-only or owner-converted cars. No big block cars came with wires.

That's from all the acid trips your avatar has taken. How about Prince Harry to clean up your act?

How do you know? "I'm planning to convert the care like a Cobra in the early 60's"--- An Ace is not a Cobra. He doesn't say anything about building an AC Ace. And there are other Ace-only sites for reference.

No it's not. Two of the first three images are clown car kits, not AC 427's or MK III's. The AC Ace is genuine as is the Drag car and last big block. CSXinfo.net is the source to follow but none of the available model kits allow any of the accuracy presented there without major improvement.

You have the wrong kit. That's Sam Fienstein's 427 Comp car. The 'early '60's' cars you mention are small block,221, 260 and 289 small nose cars with slabside fenders. No outside exhaust, roll bar, Comp gas filler cap and different wheels. Among other differences...

Model Master 'Jet Exhaust'.

There is a kit of the early car-the 1934 and later Traction Avant. Think Heller makes it.