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Longbox55

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Everything posted by Longbox55

  1. Could be worse, there's several different styles of joints that were used back then, with the American-Coleman being the oddest of the bunch.
  2. There is a possibility it might get returned to Revell from Hobby Lobby. My local (well, semi local anyway) hobby shop actually buys kits that have been returned to Hobbico (Revell-Monograms parent company) then sells them in their scratch and dent section. Most are kits with missing parts or damaged boxes, but some are simply opened kits that were returned. I've gotten many a great deal on kits getting them that way. I should mention, the hobby shop in question, Slot & Wing Hobbies, was directly involved in the founding of Hobbico, and has had a working relationship with them since the mid '60s.
  3. That's common for that kit. It's a rather old tool, originally done in the '60s about the same time as the old tool Revell Tri-5 Chevies.
  4. Here's a cutaway pic I scanned from the manual, this will show it better.
  5. Q1; There's a Rzeppa style constant velocity joint inside the ball housing, same type of joint used for the outer joint on todays halfshafts found on most fwd cars and IFS 4x4 trucks. Otherwise, the shafts inside are the same as what you would find in any other 4x4 solid axle. The Rzeppa style joint allows for smoother power transfer over a Spicer style joint. Q2; The actual hub itself isn't quite as long as it appears in the pix. Most of the length is for the spindle and bearings, which are the same as the rear full float axle. The additional length is for the aftermarket locking hubs, No real advantage, just simply the size they needed to house the components. Most newer solid axle trucks have gone to a center disconnect in place of locking hubs, plus sealed type bearings, so they do not have the extra length.
  6. https://plus.google.com/photos/110211271593344394189/albums/6118796364340577121 Edit: After some further research, the axle shown is for an Advance Design '47-'55 1rst truck. However, other than the center section being on the left instead of the right (except for some early '55 2nd 1/2 tons), the axle assembly is the same as the '55 2nd through '59 Task Force trucks.
  7. That's the style T I've always liked. Low and Mean.
  8. http://www.oldcarbrochures.org/NA/GM-Trucks-and-Vans/1974_Trucks-Vans/1974-GMC-9500-Truck-Brochure/1974-GMC-9500-Conventional-06-07
  9. https://www.gmheritagecenter.com/docs/gm-heritage-archive/vehicle-information-kits/Chevrolet-Trucks/1965-Chevrolet-Truck.pdf Check pages 175-186. It doesn't show them in the frame, but it does list what transmissions were available. Looks like they are the same as what AMT used in their Kenworth kits.
  10. One part or two part? The two part Bondo, if mixed properly, should have set up in maybe 20 minutes at the most, and sand out just fine. I've never seen issues with body warpage, but I suppose it could happen if it's put on too heavy. The one part Bondo, which is solvent passed, will take longer to set up, really no different than any of the hobby one part fillers (Bondo one part spot putty is the same as Testors Red putty, btw,. just different packaging). And if put on too heavy, it'll take a long time to set. I can't really see that warping a body either.
  11. If you get 3m/Bondo, you want to get the Professional glazing and spot putty stock number 801. It's a 2 part putty.
  12. Wheels for the 60 series truck (2 ton) will not be correct for a 1 ton. Mark and I have discussed the wheels, and determined that Modelhaus does have a correct wheel for it, however. Part number T-800/W-800 Medium Duty Tire and Rim set. Seems there were 2 options for a dual wheel truck, one with the split rim 18" wheels, which match the Welly, and one with a 17.5" single piece wheel, which match the Modelhaus.
  13. Here's what the one they make for the slant 6 looks like.
  14. Oops! I didn't look at the date Art had posted that! I do know that Hobby Design is doing some PE for Revell kits, the '70 'Cuda, '69 Nova, '09 Challenger, and '10 Camaro. Perhaps they'll pick up the void and do more?
  15. Any pharmacy should have denatured alcohol. Or, another source would be to check the hardware stores. Should be in the same area as paint and lacquer thinners. I use Kleen Strip brand myself.
  16. Good the hear that MCG is going to be doing new products. I will admit, I'm somewhat selective as to what kits I'll get PE for. I usually reserve that for either kits I want to go all out on the details, or in the rare instance that I want to build a lower/higher trim lever or a different model of the vehicle in question. I have some their custom resin parts, too, like the chopped '32 Ford grille w/insert. I hope to see some more of those items as well.
  17. The innards are different. The air erasers are like a small sandblaster, and have a ceramic insert in them to prevent the abrasive from wearing the housing. No needle in them, it's pretty much wide open. HF has a similar air eraser that's much cheaper http://www.harborfreight.com/air-tools/paint/air-eraseretching-kit-69277.html
  18. looks like an old Zee/Zylmex Suzuki 185 Quadrunner. I have one of those, too, plus a few others I spot in there. IIRC, Zee went under sometime in the late '80s/early '90s. Last time I saw them in a store was around that time in a Walmart in Champaign Illinois. I think that there is a company that has at least some of their tooling, I've seen the Harley Chopper/Captain America bike, plus a few of the Café racers reissued recently under a different name. I didn't really look at the box to see who makes them, though. Saw them at a hobby shop in Lebanon Indiana.
  19. Really, any lacquer or even enamel based colors and clears do bad over Alclad.
  20. Phoenix Toys Hobby Gear. I have some of those sets, too. Not to bad for the price, and some of the sets do come with stuff you wouldn't see in scale otherwise, like a lawn edger and a tiller.
  21. Yes, those will be fine.
  22. I'm inclined to think it's a made up engine, rather than an actual replica. I'm pretty sure it's not a Diesel, it's too small for a Diesel engine of that era. I also don't see any sort of injector setup, or really an intake at all. Definitely an L head, so there should be an intake on the same side as the exhaust. The piping on the top looks to be the water manifold. It would be nice if there were more pictures of it on the site, and perhaps the manufacturer name of whoever made the replica.
  23. I just came across this topic, and looked at the parts pics. Not to be nitpickey, but the open knuckles would only be accurate for a factory axle for a '70 or newer solid axle truck. The'69 and earlier used closed knuckle axles. Many of those trucks were upgraded to open knuckle later, though, especially if they saw lots of off road action.
  24. The C20 would have the same dual wheels on the front as the C30, plus the C20 also has the same 8 lug bolt pattern. 6 lug trucks were 1/2 tons. However, you could do a single wheel C20/C30 with the stake bed, as the duals were not standard with the stake bed. In addition, it seems I might have mislead you. After some further research, it looks as if the C20 3/4 did not have a dual wheel option during the '60-'66 period. '47-'59 had it, and '67-'72 had it. Not sure whey there is a skip, but according to GM Heritage and the shop manual, it wasn't used on that range of trucks.
  25. I just looked at the Modelhaus wheels, I think they'll be ok. From what I've seen, it looks like both styles of wheel were used. The 8 hole wheel is an 18" split rim, the 5 hole wheel is a 17.5" single piece wheel. Since the other wheels do not seem to be being reproduced, I would say go ahead and use the Modelhaus wheels. You won't be disappointed, Modelhaus is top notch quality. I might have to get a few sets of those myself, as I have both a '67 and a '72 projects in the works that need duallie wheels, and only 1 set of the Welly die cast wheels. Might save those for an earlier style truck. As far as the bed goes, I'm pretty sure the only real difference is the length. BTW, this isn't common knowledge, but the C20 was available with a dual wheel option, starting back at least as early as '55, and up to '72. They're not very common. The '72 project I'm doing is going to have that option, along with the Open Road camper and the leaf spring rear option.
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