Longbox55

I have pics, but I just got home, still need to upload them. BTW, the blue '55 Chevy in the lot is mine

http://public.fotki.com/drasticplasticsmcc/mkiba-build-under-c/mpc-instructions/automotive-cars--pi/dodge/1971-1980/mpc-74-challenger-7414/

That theory really isn't valid. Tamiya, Fujimi, Hasegawa, Heller, Aoshima, and several other all use 1/24 scale and sell just fine. Realistically, 1/25 is the odd scale, compared to what the majority of kit manufacturers use worldwide.

I'll be there. Planning to actually enter a build or 2 this time, if I get them finished.

Don't forget to check put any local antique stores you might have. I've found a few discontinued/older release kits at one of the antique stores near me for very reasonable prices. Many of the stores like that aren't really into the hobby business, so they tend not to price unbuilt kits at ebay prices.

This may sound like a strange coincidence, but that can I got from Benjamin Franklins just happens to be Emerald Green Metallic.

That's how I would do it, too, except I prefer using a drill press instead of a hand drill. More controllable speed, and I have both hands to hold the sandpaper. It's pretty easy to make a tool to mount the tires to for doing this procedure, all you need is a 3/8" bolt or rod about 2 inches long, a couple of 3/8 nuts, and a few 3/ ID washers with a OD large enough to support the sidewall without going past the tread. To make the tool using a bolt, you'll want to cut the head off the bolt first. Make sure you get one that the threads do not go all the way up to the head, as the shank area is where it's going to chuck up to the drill. If using rod, use the appropriate size die for the thread pitch nuts you're going to use, and cut some threads about an inch on one end of the rod, leaving the rest smooth. The install 1 nut on the bolt/rod bottoming it out on the threads. It does not need to be tight, just bottomed out. The put on a washer of the proper size, sandwich the tire between that and a second washer and nut, lightly tightened. Chuck it up in the drill or drill press, then run it at a slow to medium speed while holding a piece of sandpaper or emery board against the tread. Run it until the tread is smoothed to what you want.

Most of what Modelhaus has is more geared towards late '60s and earlier, and have a completely different dimension system from todays tires. In that case, referencing a site like Coker Tire https://www.cokertire.com/ might be better, as they list the dimensions of vintage tires.

With GM pumps, it's very common for them to act up before they up and quit. Usually, it starts out with hard starting and poor idle, especially if the vehicle has been sitting. They get weak and will not supply enough pressure.

It does possibly sound like the pump is weak, but usually they won't idle very well and will be hard to start if the pump is going out. You'll want to do a fuel pressure test before you condemn the pump. It could possibly be the Throttle Position Sensor not telling the ECM that you're trying to accelerate. If it is the pump, don't bother with a rebuild or the overpriced ACDelco pump. Go to Autozone, Advance, or O'Reilly and get an Airtek pump. They're about 1/2 the price and much better quality. I've put several in, never had one fail.

Harry, I'm pretty sure Alclad is available in a pray can, now, too. Either way, if you need to spray that much, spray can might be the way to go. Personally, I've only done one piece large enough to require anything more than the siphon cup (1/4 oz, IIRC) to do, and that was a grille insert for a custom computer case (it was done like a '32 Ford grille).

I've been told the same thing. It's all about perception and the angles that the model is being viewed from compared to how the 1:1 is viewed.

I've got cans of Testors enamel that over 25 years old that are still good, plus one that's at least from the mid '70s (found it at a Benjamin Franklin 5 and Dime in Covington Indiana) that's still good. As long as the can isn't rusted to allow for the pressure to leak out and paint is still fluid, they should be just fine.

Playstation 2 perhaps? It's really hard to tell from the instruction picture. It just kind of look like a game console of some sorts to me. Any chance you could perhaps post some pics of the actual parts?

Other way around. The Standard Passenger and Master Trucks were solid axle, the Master Passenger cars were Knee Action IFS. Also, note that the Toyota has parallel leaf springs, like the Chevrolet. Ford used a transverse leaf spring.

It's somewhat hard to tell form the instruction illustration, but part #84 looks very similar to the Xbox console that comes with the Rides issue of the AMY '49 Mercury. #82 looks like a 3rd brake light to me.

There's a few of those around here, mostly using old pickup cabs.

'63 was when they went to coils in the front. There's actually considerable differences in the frames from the '60-'62 and the '63-'72, about the only thing that's really the same is the rear suspension and maybe the spare tire carrier. Even the rear axle is different, with the '62 and earlier using the Eaton HO33 axle and the '63 and later using the GM Truck 12 bolt (note, this for Chevrolet only).

If you can find them, Zee/Zykmex made some very decent 1/24 motorcycles back in the late '70s to early '90s. Mostly street bikes, but there was some very nice dirt bikes, too, plus a few bicycles and atvs. I'm not sure who has the tooling now, but their stuff has been repopped a few times since. Their Harley Chopper, basically the Captain America bike from Easy Rider, seems to be the one I've seen reissued the most. They pop up on Ebay from time to time as well, but can get a little spendy. Also, the Henderson mentioned by Randy, which I think may have actually been in the Gangbusters '32 Chevy rather than the Chrysler, is available in resin from Motor City Resin. I've seen one in person, very nicely done. They also offer a side car to go with it.

I prefer using laminated pieces, too. I've found that sometimes, the thickness of the rails will be a dimension not available in rectangular stock or tubing. By laminating it, I can control the dimensions. Also, you will want to either pin the extensions or make some sort of locking key in them to maintain the structural integrity.

I don't recall where I saw it, as it was a while back. I also have not really looked into it myself. Just passing along what I've read about the kit.

You would be surprised at just how many "restored" vehicles out there are restored incorrectly to how they were new. Case in point, the Nova the Revell used as the guide for their '69 kit had aftermarket quarter panels on it, so the kit is made to match that, rather than what the OEM quarter panels really looked like.

I forgot to mention, the kit itself is an F350, with the Camper Custom option. The Camper option is why the wheelbase is longer than the standard long bed truck, and the fender openings are further back.