Longbox55

About the only thing you can do with the metallic would be to sand it out, then respray a coat on it to get the metallic effect back.

Dave covered it. However, with the metallic, you really will not want to sand it. It'll dull the color and mess up the metallic effect, In that situation, you'll want to clear it, then wet sand and polish the clear. To reduce the amount of work you have to do to finish, you should sand out the primer as smooth as possible before you lay down the color. That has a huge effect on the final outcome.

Metallic or solid colors?

That's not a Panel Truck, it's a Sedan Delivery.

Oh, just for that, I'm going to cut my unbuilt AMT 67 Corvair to make one!!

Note, this is an early brochure for '57. The side trim for the 210/Del Ray was changed for production to include the top trim, but not the aluminum insert, from the Bel Air. I know of no production 210s built this way, only a few pre production cars.

I never have heard of any good explanation as to why they included that. None of the versions of the kit are set up for dual lugs, not even the Fisher head. I do have a pair of the '80s issues of those kits that referred to the cab as being a "Nash" distributor. Nash did have a dual plug head on their 6 cylinder, it was called Twin Ignition. http://www.oldcarbrochures.org/var/resizes/NA/Nash/1929%20Nash/1929%20Nash%20Brochure/1929%20Nash%20Brochure%2021%20Engine.jpg?m=1371832076

I think you're right about that, Bill. Most of the redlines I'm aware of were either Firestone or Uniroyal, and I'm reasonably certain the goldines were Uniroyal.

It's been a while since I've used one, but I seem to recall that they last about as long as a regular 12 ounce spray paint can would, maybe a little longer. Last time I used one was with a steering wheel restoration kit. It had enough pressure I it to spray 4 coats of heavy filler primer on an 18" truck steering wheel.

Part number 46 on the tree. I highlighted the terminals so you can see them. This one is from the recent reissue of the Bel Air, which also has the ultra rare in 1:1 Chevrolet version of the Fisher/Wayne crossflow head.

Bill, the cap I mentioned that's in the AMT '51 Chevies is virtually identical to the Porsche unit you have pictured.

I can't really help you on the head itself, but the distributor cap you would need is in any of the AMT '51 Chevy kits. You will also need to run dual coils with it.

http://store.preval.com/p/the-preval-spray-system You can find these at most auto body supply shops, as well as some parts stores.

I have a hard time buying that. The body of the truck, other than the removal of the trim and the header holes in the hood that was done for the Thunderstruck pulling truck issue, was not altered. The chassis is still stock, as is the interior and engine/transmission. The only thing not stock about the drivetrain is the monster truck suspension, which is on separate trees from the rest of the kit. All of the stock parts are in the LRE, but I'll admit to not knowing if the LRE used the same mold dies as the rest of the Dodge trucks for that. But even then, the parts do exist in a currently used tool. Plus, what about the short bed trucks? The Warlock, Pumpin' Iron, and Fire Fighter all used the same drivetrain. Surely that tooling could be adapted.

Johan also did a '56 Pontiac Star Chief and an Oldsmobile 88 as 4 door hardtops.

That is slick! If you don't mind resin, Modelhaus has a very nice teardrop, as does Jimmy Flintsone, plus Modelhaus also has an excellent '50s-'60s Shasta Airlfite camper.

I got pretty lucky with that promo. Not only was it not marked, but it was in a spot where it wasn't easily seen if you weren't checking what the vendors had on the floor under their tables. Not hidden, just simply not up high. I spotted that long roof (didn't notice how warped it was at first) and knew I just had to have it. Now with resin vendors, I've had the good fortune to have had all of the resin vendors I've dealt with have their prices clearly posted. I mainly deal with a vendor for Modelhaus, plus Jimmy Flintstone and the guys from D.R.A.G. show up, too. All great guys, in fact, Kris Morgan helped me out when the bag I had mad a few other purchases split on me. He gave me a bag, no questions asked. This was before I even purchased anything from him. That left a very good impression on me.

The Paint Shop clear, the one that comes in the quart can, is pretty nice to work with. I've done a fair amount of testing with it, and have found it to be very forgiving, and it works well over not only automotive paints, but also many hobby paints. This one is shot over Duplicolor GM black metallic with the Prismatic Metalflake midcoat. The red half is Kustom Kolor Transparent Red Apple. Same midcoat as above, but the base is Testors One Coat Inca Gold. This one was a little different experiment, The top is Metallic Clear midcoat, the bottom is the Prismatic, the middle has no midcoat. The base is Tamiya TS37 Lavender. Similar to the above pic, but this one was based with Duplicolor Silver metallic (I don't recall the exact color), the topcoated with Tamiya Acrylic Clear Blue. As you can see, the clear coat did not affect the acrylic at all. Dirty Donny Vantasy. The top and bottom colors are Duplicolor, the maroon band in the middle is Tamiya. It also has a faded midcoat of the Prismatic on top into the Metallic on bottom, then the whole thing cleared with the Paint Shop clear. Ignore the car, it's a die cast. But the floor of the garage in this pic, which is made from a laminate countertop remnant, is also cleared with Paint Shop. It first got a couple of mist coats in 3 colors of vinyl paint to replicate a Terrazo style floor, the clearcoated to bring the shine up. It has not been sanded at all, just cleared.

I've seen that, too Richard. But I've also had the opposite experience, too. Found two kits I wanted from the same vendor, both were reasonably priced, especially when compared to the ebay prices. The vendor actually knocked $5 off the total since I bought both kits. I also have a '57 Chevy station wagon promo, the one I posted in the thread about that Pontiac promo. The vendor didn't have a price on it, and when I asked him how much, rather than the ridiculous ebay price (I saw a similar one for about $150), he said "$6 be ok?". That Chevy found itself a new home that day.

I do the same, and even the, only with kits I'm seriously considering. Never with kits just to be nosey.

Sometimes I clear, sometimes I don't. Depends on the paint job and the final effect I'm after.

Chuck and Kris, any chance you guys might get together and do more hop up parts for the Hudson kits?

I haven't tried it with the AMT '27, but the body does fit perfectly on the AMT '25 fender unit.

Another option is Pearl Ex powders. I like to use their silver powder, which makes for a nice primer gray finish on the parts.