Longbox55

Depends on the finish. Reds and blacks seem to take the longest, especially if they're old. Silver seems to be a problem, too. I've had some come of in a matter of hours, others had to soak for much longer. It does work best if it's fresh and at least at room temp. Remember to rinse the parts afterwards. I like to give them a dip in 91% alcohol to get any residue off. Personally, I use the Superclean, as I can get it for less that Purple Power at the local Menards. It's less about paint stripping and more about using it for its intended purpose as a degreaser/floor cleaner. There is a strength difference. If I can find it in a gallon jug, I would like to try Valvoline Cartoclean (yes, that the actual name) degreaser. We've been using it at the shop, it's definetly srtonger than either Superclean or Purple power. Tried an experiment with a pop can, ate it in under an hour. The other two would amybe etch it a bit, but not completely dissove it in that time. I don't belive it's on the market for non-commercial use, though.

Was at the flaps today to pick up some Dupli Color primer, got to looking at the pre-mix clear they have for their Paint Shop system and was wondering if anyone had used it on a model. I'm mainly wondering about compatabilty with styrene as well as hobby finishes.

Nissans lawyers will be right with Shelbys, there's only room for 1 GTR! OTOH, I do like the paint, headlights are ugly as sin, though.

Well, you're going to get plenty of opinions, like Harry said. Seems everybody has their favorites, ans I'm certain that most of us on here are like me, using whatever brand has the specific color/finish required to get the look we're after. Primarily, I use Testors and Tamiya in both their bottle paints as well as the hobby laquers from both brands. I used to use Testors spray paints, but haven't used them since i got an airbrush. Now, if I use Testors enamel for spraying, I use the bottle version, usually Model Master, and airbrush it. I also use the Apple Barrel acrylics, mainly for interiors, and recently have started using Citadel Paints, which is aimed more at the miniature RPG crowd. They do have exellent washes in that line.

The 4 black engines are all AMT, looks to be 2 Nailheads from the '40 Ford Coupe, the Flathead may be from the same kit, but might be from the '39/40 Sedan or the Sedan Delivery version, kind of hard to tell for sure. Another posability is that it's from the '32 Coupe, would need to see the heads (bolt count is different) to be sure. The Smallblock Chevy in the back with the 6 carbs is from the AMT '32 Ford Coupe.

I would be hesitant to use it on a model, as the adheasive is very strong. Basically, it's duct tape, only it's REAL duct tape, rather than the stuff you see at the hardware stores called "duct tape". It's an industrial product, meant for sealing metal ductwork. My Dad is a retired sheetmetal worker, and used plenty of it over the years. I've also used it myself, as it is great for sealing down the foil backed insulation used in car interiors. Once stuck, it does NOT come off!

Thanks, Rudy. The whole project actually started as a joke, as the original plan for the kit was a mild '60s style street custom. But I was follong around with a set of the TE37s I picked up on clearance from Hobby Lobby, just seeing what they woud look good under besides Skylines. Tucked one under the '55 body just for gggles, but then realize "hey, that looks pretty good!". So thus a project was born .

5K? Again, S10 4x4, or maybe and Explorer or Cherokee. Can be found inexpesively, throw on a set of BFG All-Terrain KO tires and you won't need a second set of tires for winter. I'm running that very setup on my '85 S10, 1/2 to time I don't even have to engage the 4wd drive, as the traction is that good with the All-Terrains. My Blazer has never failed me. Only major repairs has been a transmission overhaul, and I had to put an engine in it due to some overly agressive driving (sucked a valve jumping railroad tracks). Otherwise, only routine maintainance (brakes/tune up) and a front end overhaul (balljoints/idler arm).

Those wheels from Alan are 18" for the '47-'59 Chevy 1 tons, but I have seen the same wheel used up to at least '72 on dual wheel trucks. I've cast up a set of similar wheels (my castings are nowhere near as nice, though) for doing the same conversion on the AMT '72, they look "correct" to me, as the Monogram Ford duallie wheels are way too small, almost like a 15 instead of the 16.5 that would be correct. Here's a shot of a mockup of mine with the wheels I cast. BTW, if you use the AMT/MPC '67-'72 Chevy, the wheelbase is short for a 1 ton. The 1 tons used a 133" wheelbase for the standard truck, 157" was optional. The kits are the 127" wheelbase, which is correct for the long 1/2 ton and the 3/4 ton trucks. Also, there was a dual wheel option for 3/4 ton, so that might be a route to go if you don't want to lengthen the wheelbase.

That's not correct. The Cobalt is a rebadged Saturn Ion, based on GMs Delta Platform. If you take a good look at them, you can see the roots in the last generation Cavalier in the basic structure and suspension. The only part of it that resembles a Civic is that it's a 4 cylinder compact. They're actually not bad little cars, Enterprise Rental Cars use them, and they get beat on pretty bad. But they hold up very well to the abuse. BTW, the HHR is also based on the same platform.

Sorry about taking a bit to get the pic up, kept forgetting to charge that camera. This is just a mockup, I'm still sorting out the suspension mods. All of the trim is done in Alclad, even the side spear that was on the chrome tree. I redid all the crome to keep a consistant appearance. If anyone is wondering, yes, those are Volk Racing TE37s under it. The plan is a loose mix of several types of custom/perfomance cars, ranging from '50s classic, resto-mod, Nascar, and tuner. Still working out some of the details, though.

18 years professionally as a certified master mechanic, but have been wrenching since I was old enough to pick up a wrench and turn a nut. I was one of those kids that took stuff apart to see how it worked, and most times, put it back together and it still worked! As far as car choices, can't go wrong the those Buicks, the Camry is a fine car, too. I would also throw in the late Impalas as well. Just watch out for the front hub assemblies on the GM products, they're prone to early failure. Other good choices would be the S10 pickups/Blazers. Solid little trucks, decent mileage, and they do well in the snow, especialy the Blazer due to better weight distributation.

I usually knead the tube a bit before I squeeze any out in addition to shaking. Seems to mix it a bit better.

I've heard a few rumors, but the few that know what's really going on are sworn to secrecy until they are ready to make the official announcement.

I've been using Bondo Professional Spot Putty, the 2 part kind, not the 1 part red Glazing Putty. It comes in 2 tubes, the filler itself plus a catalyst. It's similar to the regular Bondo, but a bit thinner and has a smoother consitancy. Sticks very well to styrene. I get mine from the FLAPS or Wal-Mart.

You are on the right track thinking it is for a convertible, as that's exactly what it is. The Hardtop has the windsheild trim molded to the body, the frame is simply a leftover part due to both kits sharing the same chrome tree. If you're good at masking, you can use Alclad to do the trim around the windows with good results on the kit. That's how I did mine, as I don't have much luck with BMF. I can get a pic up for you once I get my camera recharged.

I've actually worked on one of those Custom Sport Specials with the 426 engine. Came into the shop for a set of tires. The one thing I really rmember about it, other than the 426/Torqueflite edrivetrain, was what was under the nasty Earl Scheib paint job. While the paint on the truck was a faded medium blue, the original color was Plum Crazy! Never saw the truck again after we worked on it, sometimes I wonder what happened to it.

X2 on that.

According to the Chilton manual I have handy, looks like the 261 made it at least '71 in heavy trucks.

You can detail paint over Alclad, but you have to be carfull about what type of paint you use. Acrylic is best, I've had bad results trying to use enamals over Alclad, as it lifted it. As far as washes, same deal. I would think any acrylic or water base wash would work fine.

I've been using Alumilites Quick Set and their High Strength 3. I have a preferrence for the HS3, as it is much stronger than the quick set as well as being far more flexable. Takes detail well, too, though i do have the occasional air bubble show in the mold. Not really the silicone's fault, more my lousy mold making skills. I have used the Mold Putty, it's not bad for open face molds, especially relatively flat parts. You do have to watch what you're doing, as it is easy to end up with a crease in the mold cavity if it kicks while you're molding the part. If you do try the putty, I suggest getting the regular Alumilite (purple) from the hobby shop over the Amazing brand at the craft stores. I've used boht, the Alumilite version seems to be somewhat more pliable when working it, and tougher once set up. Both brands are made by Alumilite. I have recently picked up some Smooth-On products, I have the same PMC 121/30 that you have. The 2 molds I've made have varied wildly on quality. One took exelent detail, ad works pefectly, the other self destructed the fist time I cast a part in it. Not sure what I did wrong. I do like Smooth-Ons resin better, it seems to flow in the molds better with less air entrapment.

I used to use Tenax, too. But, for the same reasons mark mentions, I switched to a different product. I've become rather partial to Tamiya Super Thin, which works very well. I've also tried the Ambroid, which I also like. I can find both easily, my SLHS has the Tamiya in stock all the time, I get the Ambroid at the Hobbytown in Castleton when I make a trip to Indy. They've always seemed to have both in stock every time I go. Tenax has been off and on with them, they did have it last time I was there, which was about a month ago. I've also experimented with aome unconventional solvent adhesives, namely Xyline, which was suggested by Art Anderson. So far, my own luck with it has been so-so, might be the brand I'm using, as it's an "environmentally freindly" variant.

If it's stainless, should be ok. That stuff doesn't seem to affect it at all. Now aluminum, that's a whole 'nuther story. It'll eat aluminum like Stone Cold chugs beer! I have seen it eat right though a pop can in 20 miniutes.

I have one of that same issue sitting under the bench awaiting it's turn, it's bowed out, too! I also have my share of the Model As, 3 of the '29 pickup (Hot rod issue, getting chopped, the Rat rod, and the Goodguys) the Sedan (getting a Roth-esque makover), and the Woodie.

Call me crazy (wouldn't be the first time), but I actually like the old tool Revell Tri-5s. The only one I ever truly had issues with was the '56, seems that all of the '56s suffered from bowed out bodies. But I never really had any issues with the '55s or '57s.