Darin Bastedo

i'll ask what is it with some of you? This is almost exactly like the thread mark taylor started the other day and the mods locked. My answer to that thread is echoed in this quote from Gregg; "All we ask is to respect each other, and us, of course, and treat this as a place you would like to call home, for your model car needs, of course. If you have any problems with other members of the board, please bring it up to the moderators of the board, send a Report via the topic or thread, or send me an email." Why do you guys feel the need to clog the board with threads complaining about other members? We can't do anything about it, only the mods can edit lock or remove threads and posts. share your concerns with them. As for Mark's "one man troll parade" I think if you stuck to model related subjects and stopped taking it personally when someone disagrees with you, you might feel a little less put upon. I'f you decide to post something provacative, prepared for someone else to be provoked. You can't bully someone into agreeing with you, and no matter how many persanal attacks you make, it won't stop people from speaking their mind.

Using putty means sanding. there is really fine rivit and panel detail near the joint, and sanding would obscure that. I'll explain what hein means when you explain what a modeler builder is. Someone who builds modelers? Ya know, not every one of your posts needs to be a smart-alec response. perhaps when you grow up a little you will understand that. My patience with you is starting to wear really thin.

I got this back from the caster about a month before I went up to visit my sweetie in northern NY, and while I was up there she was diagnosed with cancer, so I stayed to take care of her, until we could move her and our daughter to TN with me. so this sat collecting dust until I got back to building a few months ago. I remember your build, it was very nice, but I think you are right it would really "pop" with a lighter color. I think I'm going to go with the Grabber orange in the pictures of the SEMA car in the pics above.

Not many people know that I also build Planes, ships and just about any other type of model, but here is one of my "other models". I'm working on the Lindberg re-issue of the old Hawk 1932 Gee Bee race plane. I'm used to building hasegawa, tamiya, and accurate miniatures, so I don't often run into wierd fit issues, but I have with this one. As you can see in the photos the wings are one unit, and mount by sliding them through the fuselage. here in lies the problem. It creates a huge gap around the wing. I was thinking of adding a thin strip of material where the wig meats the fuselage on each side and file it until they fit tight, but this seems really tedious. has anyone else here built this kit and if so, how did you deal with this gap? Thanks for any input you have.

57 chevie's look wierd with out their bumpers on. the front and rear bumpers add quite a bit of length.

CSX 2287 at Bonneville

It would seem like a no brainer, but nobody has stepped up.

1. Can you alclad first and then detail paint over it? 2. what is the best kind of wash to use on a part that has already been alcladed?

I'm wondering...Every so often you here of someone having a really long wait time for a resin part or other cottage industry purchace. Now I don't mean sorta delayed long, I'm talking "coulda scratch built the item and walked it across the country long" (12 months or more). I've disable comments on this because I don't want the who why how or to start a bash fest on any aftermarket supplier. I just want to know the numbers. if yo have had more than one type of bad experience feel free to select more than one choice.

Well the bodywork is almost done. I still have to fill the firewall as there are two huge slots for the hood hinges. I've decided to use the photo etched hood hinges out of the Trumpeter 1960 Pontiac bonneville, as I'm buiding that kit as a custome and will design my own higes for that. There are still a few small imperfections in the body that I will deal with tonight. after that it will be off to the paint shop for the base coat and some clear to protect it. As i dive deeper into this kit, I just keep finding more and more to like about it. The Revell 57 chevy kit has the best bumpers I've ever seen! why you ask?, because they finally listened to us and put the attachment points and mold seams where they do not show, meaning smooth chrome with out having to sand it and alclad it oor send it out to be rechromed. Kudos Revell! It's almost a shame to have to cut up the rear bumper to make a correct nomad one, but it has to be done. Another thing I found is a cheap soucer for photo-etch for this kit. The last swap meet I was at the AMT Pro Shop version of there new tool 57 chevy sold for an average of $10 and with a little triming the photo-etch from this kit works on the Revell 57 chevy. I'll mostly be using the hood V and windshield wipers, from it.

Just like in the 1:1 world restoration doesn't only mean a frame off re-build. I attempted to "restore it" to the point where it was a complete model again, by replacing what was missing or broken, but not un-do the original builder's work. As far as taking bows, I believe I was very clear about what was done by me and what was done by the original builder. Nowhere did I claim that I did anything but polish up the paint a bit, and do some repairs. My intent on posting this was simply to show the guys on the board what I think was a pretty cool vintage build, and how much better it looked now that repairs have been done. You really should read a post completely before you accuse someone for taking credit for someone elses work. By the way those of us over 30 prefer the use of full words, and correct spelling over "text writing" when being chastised for mis-using the english language.

Actually jimmy, it appears that when originally built the hood did fit but in the nearly 50 years since it was built there was som warping of the hinge. Because I didn't know what the fender flares and other body work was composed of I didn't want to do any disassembly of the model for fear of damaging the body work. I can live with a poorly fitting hod, knowing that the rest of the car stayed intact, and as the original builder intended.

I didn't notice that, I was pre-occupied with the joyous angel in the foreground

this reminds me of the storm scene Forest Gump, where Lt. Dan dares god to kill him.

I don't move much as it is, just for snacks and an occasional potty break.

I bought this last month at a Swap Meet in Morgonton NC, and when I got it home under close inspection realised that it was 60's vintage build by someone with a good deal of talent. While I didn't want to undo any of the man's work, I also couldn't bear to see it in such a state of disrepair. Given that I decided to only replace missing parts, clean it up, restore the chrome a bit. In the end I ended up replacing the Passenger side sidepipe, one headlight lense, and one wheel spinner. I buffed off some marks and overspray from the body, and touched up the worn chrome with Testors Chrome silver paint. This is less shiny than actual chrome plating and was a good match for the faded chrome on the rest of the parts. Before After looks like the old man approves.

Yes it started as the 2007 Ford GT which came from the factory as a coupe only, but an aftermarket firm converted them into roadsters.

Iwas showing a friend the resin 1961 Falcon I built for my sweetie, when he brought up the fact that I'd mastered several resin kits, and have yet to build any of them. Of all the kits I've mastered so far this is the one I like the best, Ironicly this also was the one done the quickest. I saw the photos from SEMA just before dinner, and 4 hours later I had the finished body ready to be sent off to cast. I'm still deciding on the color but It doesn't matter I ordered one of each color decals from Kieth Marks so that any color I pick I have decals for. because of all the small openings in the body, it actually took me longer to trim the flash and get it ready to paint than it took to do the original conversion. Here's the inspiration for the build...

Pictured here is the third model exactly like this I have built. The reason? Shortly after building each one the somehow met a dire fate. The first one I built in 1991. shaortly after completion, I moved to a different apartment and a bowling ball fell out of a zipped case and smashed it to bits. (the bottom of my roomates bowling bag ripped out. So I built another 1992. I had it in a display case on a shelf in my livingroom. all was well for six months, until one day at sunset, the sun was in the right place in the sky, at the right time to shine through my window and hit the display case at just the right angle to melt the car on the passenger side and made it look as though it had been T-boned. In 1996 I built the one pictured here, and it was damaged to the extent you see here in a move from Columbia SC to Spartanburg SC. The inspiration behind this build is and always has been, that I really liked the 911 Speedster concept but thought that it would be truer to the original 356 model if it was more of a barebones car. so I combined the Fujime 1989 Porsche Speedster kit, with their 1973 Porsche Carrera 2.7 RS kit. This time around I'm planning to change up the color because I'm over the whole Chapagne gold color. but will otherwise rebuild it the same as you see here. so do you guys think I should build it again, or is this build truly doomed?

I've owned at least three, never built any of them, gave one as a birthday present. they aren't exactly the easiest to build but I have seen others build them up nice. I ended up buying the HRM Resin kit. it costs $185.00 but is worth every penny. It's clean and very detailed.

Mere's My sweetie with her birthday present. It even matches her blouse.... Being able to bring a smile to her face with all that's going on is better than the fun of building the model.

Like sickfish said above the kit itself does have saome flaws, but your build of it looks great. I a huge 'Cuda fan and I love it!

It depends on what your shooting for. Will this be a stock build and you want prototypically accurate hinges, or just something more to scale than the kit hinges, which agreed are very toylike. If it's stock appearing hinges you are looking for, there are a couple of guys locally with '40 fords I could photograph the hinges for you. At least one of them should be at the cruise friday night. if your looking to just have better looking hinges and a custom design is more to your liking I'll look at my kit, and see if I can figure out a better solution.

fellow board members, It appears that yes, I did step over the line especially when I posted the picture. I got carried away when trying to make a general observation and made it way too specific. It was suggested by several modellers whom I respect greatly that the thread should be deleted so I took it upon my self to do so. I was wrong and I admit it. I feel badly that in the eyes of some of those who like me, I have tarnished thier impressions of me. I promise to do my best to regain their goodwill, and to not behave so rudely in the future. Again, I apologise and ask for the forgiveness of all who I offended.

I've opened a New York style all you can eat resturant. 20 minutes after you start eating my cousin Vito comes up to your table and say's "Yo, That's all you can eat."