MrObsessive

Thanks for the tip Larry! As an eyeglasses wearer also (the lenses get thicker and thicker every year ) I should pick some of this up. This'll be great for cleaning up 1/43 bodies in a pinch!

Scott, if you'd like.............you can click here for a mini tutorial on flocking I did when I was building my '59 Buick. You'll have to scroll down a bit to get to the section, but pictures are worth thousands of words! :wink: One key thing about flocking is that it's best to do it in sections and not all at once............at least that's worked best for me. Hope this helps!

Hmmm........I never noticed that! Thanks James! That gives me a heads up as I'm about to paint the interior this weekend sometime. I'm gonna respray the vinyl top, as it's still not to my liking. :?

Beautiful, Beautiful Ferrari Antonio! I kinda like the "pillarless" look without the glass! Although that wouldn't be practical........... Keep us posted!

Ahhhhhh! The 'ol Silver Sharpie trick! I forgot about that one! Thanks Gerry!

Another suggestion you may want to do is to block sand with 600 grit paper or so, around your door panels and trunk lines. Those sections tend to have "troughs" around the door and trunk lines, and you want those areas to be as flat as can be around the perimeter of the doors and trunk. Paint wants to pull away from these areas and settle into troughs..................this is critical if you were doing a candy paint job! :wink:

Just a little update here.............It was time to get the rest of the color painting of the body out of the way.............I masked off the critical areas with Tamiya Tape and Parafilm. To airbrush the vinyl roof, I used Krylon Semi Flat Black and let sit in the dehydrator for a while. This paint dries pretty darn quick, so I could pull off the masking reasonably soon. I'll admit that painting vinyl tops is NOT one of my favorite things! :shock: I'm never satisfied with the texturing so this is as good as it gets! :wink: Well half the battle is done now...................Later this week I'll clearcoat the lower body, doors, hood and trunk. Then it's on to BMF all the trim. One SNAFU on my part was I forgot to BMF the scripts beforehand to try and bring those out with some rubbing out of the paint. :oops: Oh well.............I'll try to dry brush those near the end of the build. Meanwhile..............I need to tackle the somewhat fiddly interior...........sigh............:? Stay tuned for more! :mrgreen:

Not wet sanding clears is a personal preference of mine because the water on the clear "hides" the progress too much for me. I've burned through creases and edges when wet sanding clears, so it's easier for me to dry sand it. I just have to clean the polishing cloths more often. Getting a final smooth coat of clear (or solid color for that matter) all depends on how well you paint to begin with............if you're painting techniques are not up to par to begin with (ie: Too far away, not enough pressure, etc....) then the last coat of clear can be a moot point. The wet sanding/rubbing out should be the final things you do before polishing with wax. Scott, as Bo Jackson once said in a famous commercial........."Just do it!" :wink:

Scott, if you haven't seen it, take a look at my Turbine Car thread where I just painted the car the other day. I used Tamiya primer as a base................it laid down smooth enough where I didn't have to sand much at all, just a few dusties. I won't wet sand the paint because it is a metallic, but I'll "spot rub" a couple places where there is some dust flecks and then clearcoat the whole works. After the clearcoat is dry (Tamiya X-22) I'll rub that out, (I seldom wet sand clears) and then do a final polishing with Meguiar's Car Cleaner Wax, and a chamois cloth.

Scott, I use 600 grit sandpaper to do primer coats but I don't go any higher than that because I want my color coats to have some "teeth" to lay onto when painting. If you're applying enough coats, that should cover any minute scratches that the sandpaper leaves behind. Wet sanding color coats is up to the individual builder................I wet sand solid colors as I mentioned so the paint residue doesn't clog up the polishing cloths. I don't wet sand (or rub out) metallics due to the flakes possibly getting "disturbed". Wet sanding alone WILL NOT get you the desired shine! Final waxing does. What you've written it seems like you've already done the hard part............now get some wax and start polishing!

4 days?? It can take me that long just to get a door cut open! Great build as always Irv!

A very clean build you got there! That's one of Revellogram's nicest kits in that scale. I built one years ago and didn't have any issues with it. 8)

Looks killer Manny! The link you posted is not working...............or maybe Fokti is down?

Thanks Brian and Jairus! Brian, I airbrushed a couple shades of Alclad on the engine and the suspension arms. Mostly aluminum was used on the engine, while the upper and lower suspension arms were done in Alclad Steel. The main engine "block" was done in Polly Scale Engine Black which is water based acrylic. This shade of black is great to use on interiors because it doesn't dry totally flat black. There is a slight sheen to it which is good for vinyl. The only caveat is it doesn't stand up to handling very well, so I won't use it for the roof's vinyl top.

Absolutely Fabulous Bro! Would love to see a 1:1 in that color! 8)

Well progress is chuggin' right along on this one! ...........hopefully if I can keep up the pace, I can get this done in time for the Mid Atlantic NNL in May. I was able to get the front suspension done and see how the engine will sit in the engine cradle. In the 1:1, Chrysler touts this as a "service module" where the Turbine Car if it needed service in this area, the engine and front suspension could be pulled out of the car as one unit. The model features poseable wheels...........I can tell you that the tie rod was a real beeyotch to snap on the king pins without the tie rod snapping itself! :shock: I figured I might as well get the other door latched before I started to paint! I got the door latch working like the drivers side.................and should pose no trouble once the door hinge pins are permanently epoxied in. I've been puttin' it off for too long......but I dove in and got 'er base coats put on. The primer is Tamiya primer..........in a faux pas on my part it wasn't until I got the first few coats on that I realized I forgot to Future coat the body. The plastic didn't craze, so that's no issue here. After about an hour, the primer coats were dry and I went ahead and put on the color coats. The paint is '66 Chrysler Turbine Bronze, and seems to match pics well......although without seeing the car in person, it's hard to tell exactly what shade of bronze the car is to be. Here's most of the body color pieces all painted now. I'll wait a few days and paint the top Krylon Semi Flat Black. Then wait a couple more days and clearcoat the body, after I rub out a few dusties. Next I'll work on the interior while the clear is drying and also build up the rear suspension which is just a few pieces. I remember some trouble spots with the interior from the last time I built this, namely the seats that were too floppy, and pulled off the hinges too easily. The interior color's the same as the outside, I'll just add some dullcoat to the airbrush jar to knock some of the gloss off. Thanks for stayin' tuned! :wink:

Ooohh Nooooo!! I would be very upset if something like that happened to one of my models! Temps inside a car can get quite toasty even in the winter time. With all the glass and such that a car has, the interiors just radiate heat..........especially if it's sunny out. Your storage room while a bit toasty too...........doesn't get the direct sunlight.

Ooohh.......That's gonna be pretty! Subtle yet effective color for that bodystyle. I still like the curious little mono fin in the center of the trunk lid........definitely gives it some character! As far as Testor's paint..............they're the reason I learned to use an airbrush back in '85. The cans were too unpredictable!

Jeff, why not try the frame out of the Revell '65 Mustang kits? Although they are 1/24 scale that could make up for the width you'd need. You might need to adjust the wheelbase though because of the scale differences....................just a thought. :wink: Edit: I'm not sure if the Galaxie chassis would be correct for a Falcon if scale accuracy is what you're looking for. Galaxies were still body on frame for '68, while the Falcons and Mustangs were always unibody built.

Nice builds all!! Those opening doors look pretty good to me on that Chevelle...........that's just how they should open for a '66! 8)

Y'know Lee, I was right there and talked to the guy who's building that, and for the life of me I can't remember what he said it would be. :shock: IIRC, I think he said it would be all metal with little or no plastic, as he wanted to get away from plastic building. The fella was a long time builder, having won the Salt Lake Championship way back in the mid '80's.............real nice guy! I just wish I could remember what's the project he's building...................and it was right next to my turbine car! :wink:

Neat little Beetle!! I like the wearing of the tires......something I usually forget to do on my builds! :oops: Gotta try and build mine someday.........

Sigh.........that brings back some senior year high school memories circa 1978-79. Some pleasant some not so pleasant. I knew of a couple classmates that had '68 Firebirds set up exactly as your model is done, albeit different colors. 8) Raised white letter tires and all. Beautiful job on this one my man!...........And thanks for the memories. :wink:

I heard an August release date.......but with Revell who knows? :?

Now THAT is nice!! Great save on the old girl! I've always like the looks of the '61 Chevy and it (actually the whole GM '61 lineup) reminds me of wingless jets......... Those fender skirts IMO really make it look super sleek!