Jump to content
Model Cars Magazine Forum

Sergey

Members
  • Posts

    633
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Sergey

  1. Thank you, Dave. The museum answered and I could continue, so I finished working drive axles, like Semi Trailer Mechanic. We both think the same way and same time, though I needed more time to make it tidy:First I filled brake chamber mounting holes (consider teir location wrong) and made new ones : Here is how they should be from Cruiseliner broshure. I here is how I made camel back suspension. 0,8 styrene strips were used for springs: Here I cut original suspension for axle brackets and center point hub. I found Mack Center point suspension on line: Here is the jig to glue and shape springs: The idea is: spring ends sit inside brackets free. Pins (marked with red circles) are hold springs in place: Of course we need working shock absorbers here. So I used brass tubes: Billets: Shock absorber:
  2. Good question, Jose. It is not so hard to do. First of all you should know nominal voltage of Light Emission Diodes you got. If you linking them in line you should summ their voltages. If you linking them in parallel - you should supply the voltage jf one LED. And do not parallel LEDs with different voltages. Also use LEDs of same current (aprox. 20 mA). 2 lordairgtar: Well, perhaps our kit manufacturers do not feel potential in developing and salling Russian car kits. Perhaps our cars are so bad, that there is nothing to proud of to reflect it in plastic. We learned so well to make weapon and forgot about civilian products. I guess the same in hobby (though I make only model cars and US trucks).
  3. Chris, the lights are - LEDs (white for headlights and red for taillights)added to base kit. Read more about ithere: http://www.automotiv...ad.php?t=979322 2 evilone: Kevin, I will try to scanit for you. Thank you, Guys for kind comments, but you should see some other Russian models here: http://www.dishmodels.ru/cmp/dishow2010/index.htm It's our anual Competition and you can vote after registering. First tour with my Jaguar has just past. It will take part in the final since 6-th Februar.
  4. Yes, This is the Tamiya kit. Peter, rear hatch opening is kit's feature. I only add gas lifts.
  5. Grzegorz, well done. I want to build something like that (wrecker may be), using '80 Ford F. Which kit have you used as a base?
  6. Here are some more photos:
  7. Hi, dear friends. Let me show you the result of my last project: Here is the link to WIP: http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=979322 Thank you for looking. Feel free to ask questions.
  8. Well done, Travis. I like Ford trucks since 50's to nowadays and you made a good replica. I dream to built 1980's Ford F800, but resin hood I wanted to buy and use is out of stock now: http://sourkrautsmodeltrucks.com/?page_id=3&category=2&product_id=4 By the way, does anybody know where can I source one? Keep posting your trucks, Travis!
  9. Well done, Tim. I like chrome trim around doors. You are the MASTER.
  10. I would lift the bumper a little up (to fill big gap). For the rest I like it.
  11. Thank you, Chuchyr. I tied to contact them couple weeks before, (through e-mail) but with no success.
  12. Hi, friends. Some progress with steering axle: I used some pins steering axle in action: Couple views: Here is the reference picture from Cruiseliner broshure: Cruiseliner steering box is located right on front axle. I guess the movment from steering wheel goes to steering box through cardan shaft (marked with red arrow). As the shaft extends, when the cab tilts - it should be something like telescopic shat. Am I right? Drive axles and photo etched bolt heads: Brake chambers with pins too: Rear cab bracket sat too free on the frame. So I used couple pieces of styrene (marked with red circles). The frame again: Happy New year!
  13. Oops. Sorry. My mistake. Of course Burt Young. Thank you, Leo.
  14. Yeah. Thank you. I know that. But I still need some Cruiseliner chassis photos.
  15. I heard Bert Yang saved this name from "Rocky". Something like that.
  16. Hi, dear friends. I decided to start this poject, as I was thinking it over for a long time. Here it is, behind the Dimond. With the Rubber Duck: And here is the Paulie : I plan to start with this pair of boxes: And here is small progress: The frame. I plan to make steerable front axle. And some semiassemblies. Now I need more reference pictures. I tried to search on TruckPaper and eBay and havent found Cruiseliners. I have broshures from PublicFotki, but I need more: more chassis pictures (perhaps made in repair process). I need to see power steering location, axles and suspension details, e.c. Can you help me with this?
  17. I like the model you gonna build. Especially the doser.
  18. Thank you, Clayton. I have filler plates, but didn't glue them down jet. They coul be torn away while fiting all the sub assembly. Thank you, Leo. You already helped me to find this: http://www.supershowrigs.com/PhotoShoots/Dustin%20Foster/DustinFoster.htm Thanks to everyone for your comments and interest.
  19. I liked the Roadway Mack too!
  20. Realy nice trucks you, guys have. I wish I could have at least F150, but with our custom fees it's too much expensive..
  21. Dennis & Leo, thank you. You helped me a lot.
  22. Thank you, Dan. Hi, friends. It's me again. Much time passed since my last update and I have nothing to boast of … New cab mount brackets were made: For new hood I was have to lower the cab about 3-4mm. It was easier to scratch build one, then adopt existing brackets. Here the cab on original mount: Here - on new one: Extended frame: The front half: Cab to hood adjustment: I was have to tear away right front fender and glue it to the hood again 4 times (!), until everything was truth and level. So resin parts without markings are evil things. Filled up hollow chassis parts: There is a fail, I guess. When the hood is lowered, fenders look bigger then on picture of original (the last photo of this thread): Can anyone explain: the front fenders for custom, lowered Peterbilts have smaller radius then originals? I tried to put super singles on front discs, but they look wrong here, though the gap between wheel and fender became smaller: Looks like I should tear fenders off again to bend them slightly and reduce radius. I see the beginning of depression... Can anyone help me to find more photos of this rig?: I know there was a galery somewhere, but I've forgot to save it.
  23. Nice going, Tim. I like your 357-th. Tell me please - how have you mounted fuel tanks and straps to fuel tanks brackets? I just want to do the same with my Custombilt, but I can't figure out jet - how to make it reliable mounting.
  24. No, it was made by my friend, Oleg Malakhov - the guy, who made "Rubber Duck"using Italeri's Superliner and many scratch build things: http://forum.autoinscale.com/viewtopic.php?id=2456
  25. Hi, Winston. Watch here: http://forum.autoinscale.com/viewtopic.php?id=4395 I hope this could help.
×
×
  • Create New...