Sergey

Chris, the lights are - LEDs (white for headlights and red for taillights)added to base kit. Read more about ithere: http://www.automotiv...ad.php?t=979322 2 evilone: Kevin, I will try to scanit for you. Thank you, Guys for kind comments, but you should see some other Russian models here: http://www.dishmodels.ru/cmp/dishow2010/index.htm It's our anual Competition and you can vote after registering. First tour with my Jaguar has just past. It will take part in the final since 6-th Februar.

Yes, This is the Tamiya kit. Peter, rear hatch opening is kit's feature. I only add gas lifts.

Grzegorz, well done. I want to build something like that (wrecker may be), using '80 Ford F. Which kit have you used as a base?

Here are some more photos:

Hi, dear friends. Let me show you the result of my last project: Here is the link to WIP: http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=979322 Thank you for looking. Feel free to ask questions.

Well done, Travis. I like Ford trucks since 50's to nowadays and you made a good replica. I dream to built 1980's Ford F800, but resin hood I wanted to buy and use is out of stock now: http://sourkrautsmodeltrucks.com/?page_id=3&category=2&product_id=4 By the way, does anybody know where can I source one? Keep posting your trucks, Travis!

Well done, Tim. I like chrome trim around doors. You are the MASTER.

I would lift the bumper a little up (to fill big gap). For the rest I like it.

Thank you, Chuchyr. I tied to contact them couple weeks before, (through e-mail) but with no success.

Hi, friends. Some progress with steering axle: I used some pins steering axle in action: Couple views: Here is the reference picture from Cruiseliner broshure: Cruiseliner steering box is located right on front axle. I guess the movment from steering wheel goes to steering box through cardan shaft (marked with red arrow). As the shaft extends, when the cab tilts - it should be something like telescopic shat. Am I right? Drive axles and photo etched bolt heads: Brake chambers with pins too: Rear cab bracket sat too free on the frame. So I used couple pieces of styrene (marked with red circles). The frame again: Happy New year!

Oops. Sorry. My mistake. Of course Burt Young. Thank you, Leo.

Yeah. Thank you. I know that. But I still need some Cruiseliner chassis photos.

I heard Bert Yang saved this name from "Rocky". Something like that.

Hi, dear friends. I decided to start this poject, as I was thinking it over for a long time. Here it is, behind the Dimond. With the Rubber Duck: And here is the Paulie : I plan to start with this pair of boxes: And here is small progress: The frame. I plan to make steerable front axle. And some semiassemblies. Now I need more reference pictures. I tried to search on TruckPaper and eBay and havent found Cruiseliners. I have broshures from PublicFotki, but I need more: more chassis pictures (perhaps made in repair process). I need to see power steering location, axles and suspension details, e.c. Can you help me with this?

I like the model you gonna build. Especially the doser.

Thank you, Clayton. I have filler plates, but didn't glue them down jet. They coul be torn away while fiting all the sub assembly. Thank you, Leo. You already helped me to find this: http://www.supershowrigs.com/PhotoShoots/Dustin%20Foster/DustinFoster.htm Thanks to everyone for your comments and interest.

I liked the Roadway Mack too!

Realy nice trucks you, guys have. I wish I could have at least F150, but with our custom fees it's too much expensive..

Dennis & Leo, thank you. You helped me a lot.

Thank you, Dan. Hi, friends. It's me again. Much time passed since my last update and I have nothing to boast of … New cab mount brackets were made: For new hood I was have to lower the cab about 3-4mm. It was easier to scratch build one, then adopt existing brackets. Here the cab on original mount: Here - on new one: Extended frame: The front half: Cab to hood adjustment: I was have to tear away right front fender and glue it to the hood again 4 times (!), until everything was truth and level. So resin parts without markings are evil things. Filled up hollow chassis parts: There is a fail, I guess. When the hood is lowered, fenders look bigger then on picture of original (the last photo of this thread): Can anyone explain: the front fenders for custom, lowered Peterbilts have smaller radius then originals? I tried to put super singles on front discs, but they look wrong here, though the gap between wheel and fender became smaller: Looks like I should tear fenders off again to bend them slightly and reduce radius. I see the beginning of depression... Can anyone help me to find more photos of this rig?: I know there was a galery somewhere, but I've forgot to save it.

Nice going, Tim. I like your 357-th. Tell me please - how have you mounted fuel tanks and straps to fuel tanks brackets? I just want to do the same with my Custombilt, but I can't figure out jet - how to make it reliable mounting.

No, it was made by my friend, Oleg Malakhov - the guy, who made "Rubber Duck"using Italeri's Superliner and many scratch build things: http://forum.autoinscale.com/viewtopic.php?id=2456

Hi, Winston. Watch here: http://forum.autoinscale.com/viewtopic.php?id=4395 I hope this could help.

O-key. Thank you, Ray. As I'm building 379-th (like yours) too, I should hear your words. As I see - the cab should sit lower then on 378-th? How much lower it must be? I just replacing cab support brackets with scratch built one.

Nice start, Scott. But I thought the top of 379-th hood should sit parallel to the ground. Am I wrong, Tim?