Sergey

Thank you Tony. Do you mean a rim around engine/gear box joining? Thank you again. I was not sure about it. I guess I should file the rim off? As for the straps - they will be made using black and chrome vinyl tape. This picture was kindly granted by Don Schumaker, Mack Museum Curator Thanks to every one.

Hello Ben! Here are the examples: As I mention before the tanks will be replaced. Tank brackets too. Here are the tool and materials for that: Here are the tank side pieces: I used the rest of the material for tank brackets: Fuel tank: Fuel tank brackets: On the frame: A photo of the real frame to compare:

Thank you Ben. I will think it over. One more thing: I plan to paint the engine in gold, like on top photo. I saw they also were light blue and red. Am I right about my decision?

Kit starter: It's location on the block: I cut off the part, which will be painted with the engine ...and added some detailes to unit: The engine (not finished jet): Some parts are not glued because they will be painted seperattely in a different color. Filters were cut of brackets by the same reason. Up on the right is the tube locating above the valve cover. Up on the left is reinforced tube surraunding air filter hose: Kit radiator suffered form lack of rim on the back side. I used 25mm plastic tube to cut a short piece for radiator. By the way, this tube will be used to make fuel tanks. The hose between air cleaner and intercooler proved to be too short. I plan to cut it and insert pieces of aluminum tube 6mm: First cross member will be replaced by brass tube (on the left) because it will hold bull bar hinges. Feel free to ask questiones.

Hello, friends. I started with the engine. It should look like this: Laying out fuel lines fron injector to cylinders. I decided to improve pulleys. Cut off the belts. Alternator pulley was turn using power drill and device on photo. The rest of the pulleys were partly punched from styrene. The result. Alternator seemed too simple. So it was altered with one more lug (marked with arrow, flywheel (on the left) and bracket(on the right).

Absolutely agree. Well done! Keep on Trucking!

Once again I like the painting scheme and the background of your photos!

I like it! Especially the painting scheme!

Hello, Romell! Well done! Could you tell me please - where did you get '99 F350 body. I very like the design of this grill. I would like to build '99 F350 or Excursoin in 1/25 (1/24) scale.

Yes, I guess it for brass (cooper) photo etch only. For example I made photo etched parts from sheet bass (bumper, grill, etc). Now I need to cover it with firm chrome layer. There are some cavities, that should be painted black after that. So, nobody tried plating set like this?

I like the color scheme.

Looks nice. I would use chrome tape for tank straps.

Hello, colleagues. Does anyone tried blue solution for photo etch blacken? I have some fine brass meshes with tiny holes. It have to be black. But I afraid to fill the holes with spray paint. "Blacken it" should solve the problem. How effective is it? Does it worth the money?

Nice going Scott. It looks like left side of the cab sit lower than the right one. Besides center wind sheeld bar is suffer from damage. I like the cab color and decals. Are you sure that chair ceter could be not leathern?

Hello! I recently photo etched some parts, using brass sheet. Many of them have to be chromed. So I need some kind of crome plating kit. Does anyone used this kit?: http://www.micromark.com/Plug-N-Plate-Copy-Chrome-Plating-Kit,8327.html I woul be glad to read your opinion about it. Is it worth the money? Regards, Sergey

Could you tell me, guys: whom should I ask about plans to reissue Model King's kits? I'm searching for '79 Ford PickUp 4x4, but it's rare and no one willing to ship it outside USA.

I agree with Leo.

Thanks Doug. I knov that. Jim makes the decals for this truck 4 years already and still haven't made them. I decided to make my own one.

Thank you Tony. I appreciate your words.

Thank you Jim. You are the Nice guy.

Hi colleagues. Does anyone know how to contact Tim Sherman from "All Seasons Collectable Toys"? I know this e-mail: PlasticCar@aol.com but he doesn't answer my letters. Want to ask him about his resin. Regards, Sergey

Here is the jig to solder a lug to bigger tube: Tubes a little smaller in diametr, but slide each other perfectly: I didn't like kit's cardan shafts: So I modified one. Cooper wire, cooper sheet, brass tube and plastic rod were used: Here are cross pieces and U-brackets: Feel the difference: The result: The other hand: All driving wheels are touching the ground : Here is U-bolts on front axle :

Thank you, Dave. The museum answered and I could continue, so I finished working drive axles, like Semi Trailer Mechanic. We both think the same way and same time, though I needed more time to make it tidy:First I filled brake chamber mounting holes (consider teir location wrong) and made new ones : Here is how they should be from Cruiseliner broshure. I here is how I made camel back suspension. 0,8 styrene strips were used for springs: Here I cut original suspension for axle brackets and center point hub. I found Mack Center point suspension on line: Here is the jig to glue and shape springs: The idea is: spring ends sit inside brackets free. Pins (marked with red circles) are hold springs in place: Of course we need working shock absorbers here. So I used brass tubes: Billets: Shock absorber:

Good question, Jose. It is not so hard to do. First of all you should know nominal voltage of Light Emission Diodes you got. If you linking them in line you should summ their voltages. If you linking them in parallel - you should supply the voltage jf one LED. And do not parallel LEDs with different voltages. Also use LEDs of same current (aprox. 20 mA). 2 lordairgtar: Well, perhaps our kit manufacturers do not feel potential in developing and salling Russian car kits. Perhaps our cars are so bad, that there is nothing to proud of to reflect it in plastic. We learned so well to make weapon and forgot about civilian products. I guess the same in hobby (though I make only model cars and US trucks).