Sergey

Thank you, Anton! My slipway was ill- conceived to glue the cab level.

Hello, Friends! It's time to upgrade, after 3.5 months. About the long break a little later. I have sanded trim lines in the draft version Yes, I noticed that gutters run along the upper edges of the roof... ...decided to reproduce them. Cut "skis" out of brass Something like this they could look like: And here's the reason for the break: 5 or 6 times I glued the side panels. I was never able to glue them perfectly, and even squeeze a piece of brass between the roof and the sidewall In general, "skiing" has been postponed for now. Then I'll stick it on...from Evergreen. I took care of the front axle. The donor Ford has a narrower track than the GMC. Front axle with rotary fists is about 64mm, and you need about 80. I cut off the plastic axles from the gearbox, replaced them with brass. It's harder. Drilling the differential was difficult. One half inside is a pipe, but of a smaller diameter than necessary. The rotary knuckles also had to be drilled to accept the brass pipe. First with drills, and then, at the edges, with an end mill. Yes, the reciprocal parts of the fists were also drilled and cut to accept the brakes. The right one hasn't been cut yet I tried on the wheel on the cargo hub. There was a reason to start learning 3D. To begin with, the wheel hubs are the very thing. The front of the cabin lacks rigidity. Pasted sheet plastic for now Only in the photo I saw that the front of the roof on the left is lower than on the right. I'll have to re-glue it again Enjoy watching!

Interesting build! About used engine: the border between paint and dirt turned out too sharp for reel thing. I would take cotton swab with a drop of solvent and wipe off the excess on some border lines. About the flares: I would cut them to hood line OR lengthen them to the bottom of side skirts. Good luck!

Magnificent work! My compliments to your wife, Conrad! But I supose, that 1/12 motorcycle will fit the scale better.

Yes, Dennis! This is it! Thank you!

Thank you! I will think it over.

Thank you, Anton! As a matter of fact the engine is too simplified (visible part of it) to get work.

Hello, dear colleagues! Today is the day when there is something to show, but not so much has been done: I made a batch of castings from transparent resin. While I'm writing the post, the second batch is maturing I've made slits in the handles of the rear doors I cut the door cards in half, because the upper part is the same color as the door. Added a magnet I have sanded the tires first with the 80th grid, then with the 220th. Sawed the inner back wall to make it easier to insert the glass later. ... although it was possible not to do. The glasses slip through these frames. I decided to cut a couple of details of the engine compartment. My usual problem with the details of different colors The photo shows a drilled exhaust pipe (green arrow). For contrast, the pipe under the tow bar has not yet been drilled (red arrow) ... and here - already drilled. I really got carried away, I took off too much I decided to carry out the dry fit to the maximum Please note that the hood does not close, no matter what I already do... It is necessary to disassemble and adjust all the parts responsible for this. As a summary: The kit is replete with details. Some are even frankly superfluous. Many parts are cast with zero clearance. Barely fit into each other. There are a couple of parts with such a gap that polystyrene needs to be glued. But the plastic will have to be removed from the hood hinge/ bumper/frame. Because of all that has been said, you definitely won't have to be bored. However, the vehicle is worth it. Brutal-brutal, and everything opens up. You just need patience with fine-tuning. Enjoy watching photos and ask questions!

Thank you, Jacob!

Thank you David, Dan, Jonathan, Anton and JASON! Good evening, colleagues! A little more progress: I have made an antenna, well, and put everything under the hood as best I could Perhaps I have reached the stage where I can put this project on pause and already do the other two. A couple of general plans. I am always glad to have questions and suggestions!

Hello, Peter! My mistake. Tape name is Oracal. I have mat white, mat black and mirror one.

Hello, colleagues! Let's continue. Rebuild the moldings. Black chrome turned out to be friendly, but it looks worse than rubber black paint. There is a Aluminharu from MFH on top of the Black chrome. The most difficult thing was to glue it with a perfectly strite strip. Pull it a little more and tear. And here - there is a strip of Oracle tape instead of foil. I did some magic with optics. I made fog lamps with the help of large lenses (it seems from Aeromax) and a file That's how it's all assembled There are 2 round lenses left. There is no reference to them in the instructions, but I think they are intended for ceiling lights. Their thickness is two times less than that of the rest of the glazing. But the diameter is about 1 mm larger than the lampshades. I had to reduce it. Once again on the hood lifts: The hood is open In the closed position, the hinges go inside I showed off - I made an oil dipstick and a couple more little things under the hood Yes, I did make a sast food tray I think many have guessed what kind of fruit vegetable it is preparation for the next painting Yes, not everything turned out perfectly, but let's pass it The fitting of the cabin and the chassis showed that the track of the left front wheel is more than a millimeter and a half than the right one. Perhaps because of the replacement of the front springs, perhaps because of a small frame screw... or maybe Revel messed up. I tried to put the disk on the hub better. It's half a millimeter better, but not enough. In short, I removed the wheel, cut the pins from the rotary hub, replaced it with a brass rod. Yes, the tag between the wheels was too small. I had to cut off a pin from left rotary hub and paste a piece of polystyrene between them. Marked with an arrow. While impaling the hub, the paint was rubbed on the rim. Tinted with glossy black "enamel". After drying, rubbed with Guin Sun powder. For such repairs - an indispensable thing. Any questions and suggestions are welcome!

I agree with you, Francis! Now I learn to convince myself that my faults are acceptable. Sometimes I succeed, and sometimes I don't (like with Silverado's trim line; I already regretted it).?

Totally agree with those yellow little men! My eye rejoices at this level of work! Only minor notice: aren't those exterior door handles slightly short for hand? Any way they look perfect! I wouldn't have succeeded either if I had tried! ?

Hi, Gents! http://scalecustoms.ru/uploads/emoticons/default_drag_06.gif The kit I bought "from hand" turned out to be missing the C54 part. ...this is the panel covering this hole: It follows from the reference photos that there should be cup holders and pockets with lids So I made a blank from profiles The hole was covered with a piece of styrene, because this whole gear cover is the same color. Yes, I cut off all the elements, that should be sprayed black In my version of C54 - all black elements will be inserted after coloring Couldn't resist trying on a cup for another project I cut off the cigarette lighters completely. I'll replace them with homemade ones The hats were punched with his old puncher. For diameters of 1 and 1.5 mm, it is still needed. Enjoy watching!

Happy New Year To all! My last update this year: I decided to change all blind turn signals and marker lights to transparent ones. That's how it was. and so it turned out. Yes, these transparent sprues are from Tamiya's Modena. Right next to the side windows. Slices of it - fit perfectly. Here I have moulded the marker lights. Then I 'll fill it with transparent resin I cleaned the underside of the rear gate from the pushers. At the same time, I changed the overlay bar to a thinner one. I also drilled and cut the pins with a hole (I don't know what it is). They are difficult to mask, and they should be painted black. Yes, here I decided to change the tactics of masking: Disguised BEFORE painting, so as not to cut the paint. Let's see how will it go later. Here I made the upholstery on the central posts And finally I started dismantling the dashboard panels. The excess that was removed was sealed with epoxy. It dries. Question? Is this panel line, which is formed when the roof and back wall are joined, is there on a real car? I didn't find any good photos of the back of the roof. So I am tormented by doubt: glue and putty before painting, or to glue them together - after. HAVE A NICE HOLIDAYS to everyone!!!!

Thank you Steve! Yes, My builds "Goes a long way" (c) Thank you, Francis and Anton!

Thank you, David! How d' you! Did you miss me? The pieces begin to form a picture. I mounted the wheels, inserted the nipples (although they are almost invisible), dusted the tyres Dusted the chassis too. I think during the assembly process, all this will crack a little. The engine was assembled, brushed and tinted The letters on the lid were made by Molotov. Dipped a toothpick and gently applied with the tip. I tried it on a chassis with a body. It seems to be fine. I haven't tried it on with the cab yet, since it's in the works. I polished the paint step on the door, but apparently I polished it badly... When I painted and varnished, I realized that I hadn't completely removed the step. It was necessary to be "more careful"! Plus, I cheated and didn't primed this piece. Apparently 2 layers of primer gave a good thickness. We'll have to do it in a new way or disguise it with a fast food table on the door. I added front seat belts and mats to the interior Prepared the rear reflectors. First I painted it with an old Molotov marker. It didn't work out very well. I remembered about the Gin San powder and rubbed it over. It got better. I didn't buy it for nothing. It have already helped me twice in this project. And more tar for the last. I don't like the side moldings. The paint did not lie evenly on the foil. I think to take it off, try Black chrome from BMF, and smooth stripes of chrome - on top. What do you think, Gents?!

Thank you, Anton! Yes, this kit is not so easy. Some parts needs dry fitting and fine tuning. But my motivation is not depends on complexity of the kit. My motivation - is beauty of prototype. And I'll try ny best to repeat it in plastic.

Thank you Chris and Carl! I will try my best to make next models like this!

Hi, Gents! I decided to build a Hummer "out of the box" in contrast to TopKick. I have bought it started. The torpedo and the engine were already glued and, it seems, on the Tamiya Extra Thin cement. Barely tore the engine cover off "with meat". Levers and pedals are also already glued. The engine and frame are also assembled. someone patched the grooves on the frame before me. I started to putty cavities on interrior But the main reason for the opening of the VIP: I want to peel off the deflectors and black panels from the torpedo to paint separately. I put it to soak in the brake liquid for a week. Sometimes the parts, deeped into the brake liquid come apart. But it depends on the glue. I was able to tear off only two deflectors (again "with meat"). The rest is stay in place. Question: are there any other ways to take a part the parts glued with plastic glue? All that comes to my mind is: "remove the plastic with a milling cutter from the back side and squeeze out the panels. Only it will be more difficult to glue them back. Next I cut off - 1mm excess of the roof diagonally cut the lower edge of the window frame and the opposite part of the side panel .. and now the roof sits down without deflection between the first and middle posts But this is just one of the fails of the final assembly. In the rear part of the body, a horizontal gap is visible between the roof and the sidewall. The fenders, which are part of the interior, prevent them from coming together. We still need to sand them a little. "That's all, Folks!"

Thank you Kit and Bob for your support! Let's continue! I decided that it is easier to process panels individually than together. The stiffness is greater. I sanded off the excess plastic on the roof. The front side of the roof had to be lifted with putty. I'm slowly processing it, but this is not the final yet I took care of the sidewalls. I started making stamping lines. The upper one: ... bottom one So - it 's clearer Next - putty in the right places, but first - are masks Then the most dreary thing for me: putty, sanding, putty, sanding ... Thank you for watching!

Thank you, Tommy! I will remember final fraze. Have not heard it before. ?

Thank you Francis and Steve!!! Last time I was busy with work on landscape field. Plus I still have work to do to make mý haus look right. I mooved from city to my own home 1,5 years before. But your words makes me to work farther with current projeckts. Thank you again! ?

Thank you very much, again, guys!