Sergey

Thank you! Hello to everyone! As part of maintaining activity, I made cardan shafts. However, there were not enough crosses. I need to visit my good friend - resin caster. Well, I chose the Ford’s transfer case. It is even put on custom TopKick Photo is small and bad, but I hope you can find similarity. Good luck to all! bye:

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Thanks to everyone! I was guided by this reference photo: It was the easiest way to mount them. Thank you Anton for more reference pictures!

Hello, Friends! There is something to update in this topic. Finally, on the fourth attempt, the hood bent. Now it touches the plane with all 4 points. ? The truth is now another trouble: the rear edge of the hood has become an arc. I don't know whether to leave it like that or think something. When I have barely achieved a certain success, I am already afraid to bend further. May return to the original state. The recipe is like this (suddenly someone will come in handy): we boil the water and pour everything except the grill (the bars are thin there, I was afraid that it would lead) and bend it, and you need to bend it into cold water with a margin, because the hood springs back a little after a couple of hours. Only in order not to walk on my rake, it is better to file (and then glue back and fill up) the front corners of the hood. They give the entire structure maximum rigidity. But the convergence of the hood and ... the wings are better now than they were And everything would be great, if not for one more thing, namely: Does anyone have a similar photo of a real car? I rummaged through a bunch of photos yesterday, but I didn't find such an angle. Can there really be such a gap between the hood and the windshield frame?

Thank you Mike! Let's shake the dust off the topic! As promised in August - rear shock absorbers: Finally installed, and at the same time adjusted the tail of the frame in hot water. Due to the deformation of the silicone mold, the left frame rail "went to the left" and became shorter than the right by 2mm. The same frame rails, but with a tank Yes, I was looking at the reference photo here and realized that not only the front of the wing has a negative slope, but also the entire front panel But trans-kit has it vertical That is, before giving the right slope to the front of the wing, which I have already started to do (hurried) from the left side... ....I still need to cut off the front end at the panel line, give the end a negative slope with a putty and glue the front end back, but higher, because it will not work to raise the wing from above / in front, leaving the headlights and grill at the same level. In addition, a slight strabismus of the headlights was found, which also requires correction in the sawn state. Fortunately, the grill is a separate part here. I hope I will manage without losses. Stay turned!

Hello, colleagues! And Happy New Year! Thank you Anton! I guess I finished fuel tank modeling for now. A bit of good old-fashioned modeling. I assembled a resin engine. Well, it's not bad. Besides even with the hood open, it is almost invisible. Added a 4mm spacer between the crankcase and the block. The turbine was bent from 3mm solder. I will still refine the oil filters. So far, it will stand without pipes. By the way, here is everything that has not been used yet (or already). Well, a couple of views on the frame: Good luck to everyone!

Well done, Anton! I like it! Head lights and grill worth the effort!

Hello, dear colleagues! There is no progress on model itself, BUT the work from the workbench smoothly migrated to the computer. I tried my hand at a more complex element (for me) than the hubs I did it according this photo: Friend of mine helped me to discover this one That's what I got: These stiffeners were my headache for some time.

Thank you, Anton! I recently saw your 88' Silwerado. That is beautifull work too!

Wow, Charles!!! What amazing build roud here! I like the way you make louvers on hood! Nice touch! The only minor thing I see is distance between steering wheel and door way. It seems that driver should Squeeze through to get in and out the cab. I guess the tent can be done in down position.

Thank you Dennis, Alan and Francis! I try my best! To catch up to yesterday: I soldered and put in a steering link, and also made a blank cover over the clutch. It will also be necessary to process the edges. Stay turned!

How d'you! The working season is over and finally I can get in modeling, my precious! I remembered that there is such a project where it's time to put something on wheels. I started with axels. Shortened both about 10 millimeters. From knitting needles bought earlier, I cut the spindles. The rear one is longer. The rear hubs and brake discs will sit on it. And the front ones are very short. Actually, only the hubs and disks fit on them. Here, by the way, is the proof. The holes in the brake discs from Plamoz (and, accordingly, in the hubs) are about 2.3 mm, and there were no such spokes in the arsenal. It is obvious that the brakes with wheels will stagger However, with the help of adhesive tape, you can glue anything! In this case - electrical tape. One layer was enough. I made new steering rods. Ford's one were too large and in wrong place for GMC. Finally - test fitting! Enjoy watching! Feedback is welcome! :bye:

Nice progress, Roger!

Hello, dear colleagues! Summer is hot time for land scape design, so there is so a little chance to modeling. But sometimes I got luck. I scratched the wheels from the inside and that's what I got (the right wheel). Now the track is what it should. Poked around outside the wheel disc in an attempt to get Chevrolet hubcaps Wound springs on a 3.2mm drill bit In this photo, you can see that the frame in the rear overhang curves to the left Therefore, the gas tank is cut out. After editing the frame, it will return to its place at the assembly stage. It seems to have finished with the front suspension. I made a 3-section link between the wheels. The small tubes marked with arrows serve to adjust the length of the link "in place". I started the rear suspension. I haven't trimmed the axle yet. Intermediate result I haven't touched the body yet. just removed the thickness at the bottom of the rear overhang to make it easier to bend. And sand off tail gate a little, because the body is too long/ Next time I'll show you the rear shock absorbers. Good luck to everyone!

Sorry, I meant - delivery. Thanks to everyone!

Thank you, Bob! I also thought that my MCR's El Camino is perfect, before I started to work with it. May be the deal is that I'm a perfectionist? Yes I have bought the kit directly from Motor City Resin. I'm impressed with your work! I think your 73' El Camino is looks more right, then MCR's one. The hood part of a kit I work with is not so horizontal as it should.

Thank you, Guys! Finishing front suspension Fitting. Yes, not everything is symmetrical yet, but we will try. the axis of rotation of the wheel should sit deeper, inside the disc. And now rotated wheel is not in the center of the arch jet. I have already started working with the inside of the disk. I cut out the brake drum to glue it deeper.

Hello, Mike! Steve is right! It is Motor City Resin Casters kit and the price is good. I have payed $100+ with deliverance couple years before. Now let's go! I guess I was lucky to found some pictures of Camino bottom. Though it's 1968 model the bottom looks mostly the same. By the way: what is the right name for car bottom to write down in search window? Here we can see lower wheel arms, which I don't have. But looking at the next photo of repaired Camino I have found the way to make new arms. I can make it from brass wire 0,8mm. But first I should fill rectangular hole in wheel wells with a piece of 2mm plastic. There is how upper arms looks Here are some billets for arms: front semi axles, wells for springs and rotary fists (if I call it right) Semi axles in place Now let's solder all this mess And there are copies of muffler and differential drilled & pierced with 3mm plastic tube and 2mm steel spike inside. Don't pay attention to the bell in front of differential. It is injection sprue to be deleted. Comments are welcome!

Hello, Gents! As all of my current projects are paused for different reasons I decided to start fourth generation of El Camino! It looked like this: or like this in 74-75 So: the resin kit contains almost everything you need to build a handsome car, except for the rear axle, suspensions, wheels, cardan shaft and mufflers But there are some bugs The front bumper is slightly curved outward. That's just it's already covered with chrome and you need to unbend it more carefully. A separate hood is curved, but there is no engine. You can also glue it tightly The bench seems small relative to the width of the body. However, after digging in the network, I found such a drawing That is, the length is almost necessary, but the depth of the seat is shorter by 4mm. I don't know what to do with it yet. I'll decide along the way. The bottom, apparently copied from a similar whale. Perhaps it is 69'Olds 442, which is why it is recommended as a donor for the suspension. It can be seen that the caster himself repaired the bubble on the front stabilizer. The wind screen is vacuum formed and, as we can see, is covered in bumps from bubbles. And these are the taillights, which should be made of transparent resin, in theory. But obviously the stars didn't come together and the red dye probably killed the transparency. But there is also good news: I have already estimated the wheels from the 77 Ford. It is only necessary to sand down the caps. They stick out too much. Yes, I also figured out a donor for the rear gearbox and mufflers and I'm thinking about replacing the front levers, but more on that later!

Hello, Friends! Let's continue our perversions. Re-glued the front left upper corner. It became even. It's time to make the fire wall. I have finally found a picture of the most "stripped" front wall of a cab Started from styrene: Next - putty The floor is made of "candy" plastic 1.5 mm It will be further developed (however, like everything else) Molded a plastic pad under the wipers. It's still an intermediate option. And I tried on a long-prepared etching Enjoy watching!

Hello, Patrick! Beautiful work! I like the idea and the way you make it! I would make a grill by alternating plastic (Evergreen) and metal strips. Then would glued it in frame with plastic glue and take the metal strips off. Other way is to glue Evergreen strips on mesch (it is visible through vertical bars on 1:1 Lincoln), but you also need some conductor for spacing. One more thing: I can see that edge line on headlighs bacame smooth. May be it's better to use some metal strip or angle here too? Keep it going!

Francis,my congrats about Lenco shifter! I know how hard can it be to put such little things together, when you limited in place! Thanks to you - I also now know what Lenco shifter is! Not completely, but I have an idea. I very like your alternator! Top notch, as alaways!

Looking good!

Hello, Friends! There is nothing to show about plastic today, but I will show the first modest experience in 3D modeling. Front hub Many thanks to Mikhail aka Stratos75! He has drawed the cap. It was already faster with the rear hub I'm slowly getting into progress. I should learn a little more and to may print out something more serious :dance: