Matt Bacon

Thanks, guys! As for the scale... it dates from the late 1950s - the "box scale" era - and since the Camel was the first, it may not be a coincidence that the wingspan scales out to exactly 12". There was no precedent to follow, and the idea of "standard" scales was a way in the future, so why not? Of course, once you had the Camel, it makes sense for the other WW1 models to be the same. It must be said, though, that depite its age, the level of detail is very impressive... bestest, M.

This is the old Revell 1/28 Camel, which is still a pretty good kit, for all it's 50+ years of age. This is pretty much from the box, with the exception of correcting the lower wing dihedral (it should be 10mm above horizontal at the drilled location for the wires joining the elevators) and decreasing the gap between the wings (about 6mm off the cabane struts). I added a bit of cockpit detail, including a windscreen and decking, but you can tell from the photos that the interior improvements are pretty hard to spot. The scheme is for F4017 at 204 TDS, Eastchurch, in late 1918 (seen in the Windsock Camel book on p25) - I found it in a build by Nigel Julian over on Aeroscale. He did his in 1/72, and I don't fancy the masking at that size. This is for the CBK "101 Gems" stand at Telford - 101 classic kits that are still worth building today. On with the pictures... It probably seems like a lot of pics, but if anyone else wants to build one, you need to see it from all angles, and I also like the way the different elements of the "camouflage" slot together across different parts of the aircraft... Build thread is here: Revell Camel Build bestest, M.

If you have no luck direct (and you probably won't), HLJ offers a parts ordering service for Japanese vendors. I've used it a couple of times, and it's great. You do pay, but only cost - they do it as a service to customers. HLJ's Mr Oishi will contact the kit makers in Japanese, which helps. They "stack up" orders for a particular maker, and then do them all at once when they have enough, so it can take a few weeks or a couple of months, but with Fujimi you should be OK. You can find out more here: http://www.hlj.com/helpcenter/products.html#parts Scroll down to section 5, near the bottom... Good luck! best regards, Matt

...it's my birthday today, and my wife bought me a K&R Replicas 1/24 Jaguar XJ-13 kit and a big book of Gil Elvgren pin-ups, and the kids bought me "The Last Open Road" by Burt Levy, which I've heard nothing but good about. All in all, I'm feeling very lucky that they understand me so well! all the best, M.

That's a very nice job - I think the 365 GTB Coupe is one of the best of the Italeri Ferraris (though I don't know if it was tooled by them or someone else like Esci or Protar). And you've made a really good job of it, especially that engine bay. When I do mine, I'm going to give the chrome wheels a light coat of matt varnish just to knock the "brightness" back a bit - I think they're the only thing that detract a bit from the realism of this outstanding model... And I think it's GREAT to see more Ferraris... Personally, "European exotics" are all I build. I just can't get excited about Hemis and Offys and Rods... and a _proper_ GTO is made in Modena, not Detroit! bestest, M.

I'd really like a 1/24 Jaguar XJ13 race prototype, and it looks like the only option is a K&R white metal kit. Has anyone got any experience of this manufacturer in terms of accuracy, fit, buildability etc? The white metal itself doesn't scare me... at least no more than a full resin kit! bestest, M.

I know you're joking, but seriously - it comes with parts for both right and left hand drive dashes. Why don't they do that any more? Eh, Mr Tamiya with your DBS...? bestest, M.

This is the early 60s-vintage Revell Jaguar E-Type. Despite the oh-so-American scale, this was a product of the Revell shop in Potters Bar, following on from some smaller scale cars that had also been tooled in the UK - in 1/32 and the Cadets in 1/48... This is built almost entirely OOB - the point of the exercise is to show how well some vintage Classic British Kits respond to a bit of TLC in construction for our CBK SIG display at Scale Model World 2010. There are some challenges in getting it together - mostly building it in a way that allows you to eliminate the seams between upper body and chassis and around the nose of the bonnet, but generally the fit is very good, and the detail is impressive for a kit of this vintage. Some parts are a bit crude - notably the headlamp surrounds. The only additions are some fake fingernails to form the "sugar scoop" channels for the headlights, where otherwise there is a big hole behind the glass, and a "stalk" for the scratchbuilt mirror, rather than fitting the chunky chrome part to the dash. I left off the wing mirrors because they spoilt the lines (as do many 1:1 cars), and went for a bonnet-top number plate, because I think they are cool! Paint is a homebrew from Zero Mica Silver and Blu Scozia to represent the original Opalescent Silver Blue, and the upholstery is mostly Citadel and Vallejo dark blues... It's not a state of the art kit, for sure, but I think it scrubs up pretty well. Why isn't there a Tamiya E-Type, though? Its arguably the most iconic car EVER, and sold a lot in Japan! Oh, and I couldn't resist this: ...cars looked better in the '60s, didn't they? One day, my dream garage will contain all of the above ;-P bestest, M.

A bigger update today... things are coming together: It took about four reads through the instructions to figure out how this rather nicely detailed axle goes together. In the end I built the axle, and glued the subframe together and painted them both, leaving them to dry overnight. Then I fixed the forks to the stub axles. I press-fitted the springs to the sub frame, and then flexed the subframe open while I popped the forks in place. Finally I flexed the springs into place and over the pins, then when it was all in position, used superglue to fix everything in place. This is another example of the high quality engineering and design of this old kit. Some bits leave a lot to be desired - like the chrome, but a lot of the most complex parts fit very well indeed... Like these: This is the front frame, which with care and some trial fits goes together really well, and is very solid when it's set. Note the "wash bottle" - a clear part pained with Tamiya Clear Blue. This is the engine bay completed. You could do more with it, obviously (especially with all those detail photos at www.xkedata.com), but I think this is pretty good for "out of the box". ...and finally, this is where I am tonight. In case you're wondering, the big red sponge block is to stop the steering wheel being knocked off when I turn the car upside down! I'm now starting work on the chrome, lights and final details. The windscreen clear part will need some TLC! bestest, M.

Here we are, making some progress: Picture's aren't the best, but... The bonnet and main body are just clipped together, and they more or less close of their own accord, which is a relief! I've added some chrome trim to the bonnet lines (after sanding them off, natch). The lower part is fuse wire, the upper part is some self-adhesive "chrome" vinyl I have - I wasn't convinced that BMF would be strong enough at this width, and they are raised in real life anyway... I printed a teeny-tiny Jag logo for the "scoop" splitter, and I think it adds a neat touch of colour. The close-up does it no favours, but I'm pleased with the wheel! Again, I printed out a logo for the boss, for some additional colour. The rim is a "warm flesh" colour overcoated in Humbrol Clear Orange... More tomorrow! bestest, M.

It's taken a while of filling, sanding, priming, filling again, sanding again.... etc. etc. But now it's painted, with a Zero paints homebrew based on Mica Silver with a drop or two of Blu Scozia, to get the Opalescent Silver Blue look... The bonnet is just clipped on for the clearcoat,, having basecoated the two separately to make sure the firewall and bonnet interior are body-coloured... Now to let that cure good and solid... bestest, M.

Thanks for all the help, guys! Without wanting to get into a fight about it, "Remembering Revell Model Kits" pegs the E-type as a model that was designed and tooled by the Revell UK team in Potters Bar for the mothership back in the US. They'd done some 1/32 car kits earlier (the 1/32 Healey is another "gem" being built by a friend of mine), but this was the first larger scale car kit originated in the UK... Anyway, first up, many thanks to Agent G: The "sugar scoops" are indeed made using false fingernails! From most angles, including this one, the combination of the fingernails and "coke bottle" headlight lenses means that it looks OK - no big gap into the body, anyway... The lower bonnet is attached, and the duck tape is pulling in the sides of the upper part to meet it. I guess you can see where I'm going with the colour now... the jar contains some homebrew (from Zero paints) "Opalescent Silver Blue" (the one on the box-lid). With that body, a '61-3 model E-type could have a grey or dark blue interior - so the excellent folks at XKE Data tell me! (And a huge thank you to Harry P for that one - I've printed off SO many pictures from there...) I'm going for the dark blue option. after a straw poll (of the people who have to live with it after I've built it) The moulded wire wheels are undergoing the treatment... They'll be fine when I've done with them... bestest, M.

Yep... this one, although it is in 1/25, was designed and tooled in the UK in the late 60s, so it qualifies as a "Revell Gem", and will be displayed on the Classic British Kits SIG table at Scale Model World this year. Obligatory parts shot. This looks pretty nice and detailed - a bit flashy here and there, but generally good shape, and lots o' bits. The biggest headache is going to be figuring out how to build it up so that the upper and lower halves of the body and bonnet can be joined, filled, cleaned up and painted as single units.... I shall certainly be deviating from the instructions. You can see the bits I've "de-chromed" already... The main assemblies are just trial-fitted, as part of the experiments to figure out how to build it so I can get rid of the worst seams before painting. The bonnet WILL "snap" into place, but I'll have to see about how much needs to be done at the back before closing it up. It looks as though the rear suspension can all go on after the body's joined, so it's just a question of how much of the interior WON'T fit through the hole in the top! The engine's quite nicely detailed. Cam covers are BMF'd for that shiny look! A lot of the interior is carpeted (including the backs of the seats!). This is NOT the final colour, but I'm using a new product called Plastikote "Velvet Touch" for the first time to texture the surface, and it only comes in red or green, and I thought that most colours would work better over the red... I now need to figure out how to make the "sugar scoops" inside the headlight openings before closing up the bonnet. They don't exist in the kit, which means you can see sideways into the big gap in the extreme nose... bestest, M.

Thanks, guys... I've been thinking hard about how to "re-order" the build so as to be able to paint the main body and bonnet as two complete assemblies after joining, filling and sanding. I think I'm more or less there... I'll post up a WiP to show how I've approached it. Essentially, the bonnet will be "clip-on", and I'll leave out the seats and most interior details and add them through the open top... the convertible-ness makes it a lot easier! bestest, M.

Hi, all... I'm building an E-type from the classic Revell kit for our "Classic British Kits" display at SMW 2010, and I'm, wondering what colours to do it in. Many people think that the late-60s Revell kit is an Aurora mould, but it isn't - it was the first (and maybe only!) 1/25 Revell car model designed and tooled in the UK, by the Potters Bar "out-station". The UK team had cut their teeth on some 1/32 cars, but they were also responsible for several of the ground-breaking 1/32 aircraft kits as well... So, what colours should I build it in? All of the above have real examples online, though the Flame Red is in the "Auto Legends" book that I have, and the metallic blue-grey is the chosen example on the Ultimate Car Page, so I have better pictures of those two... If you want to vote for "Other", please post a photo of the scheme you think that I should build here... Thanks! beste regards, M.

Thanks, guys... If you want to build one of these, Modelimex in the Czech Republic has the Smer reissues for 6 euros each, which must be less than $10... and they are really good to deal with. I ordered from them, and the kits were with me in the UK about four days later... www.modelimex.com best regards, M.

A true classic kit, first issued 50 years ago! And with the Alfa 158/9: bestest, M.

Hi, all... I just picked up one of these for a very reasonable price, as the only bidder. I was bidding mostly because it's a European sports car of the 50s/60s... which is my preferred subject matter and period. I don't know much about it other than it's on a par with the DB4GT, I think. Anyone have one and have any more review/hints/tips to offer? bestest, M.

Hi, all... for various reasons, I've been thinking about how to achieve a "Supercar Matt Black" finish, and also how to paint my DBS. I've seen a few of these supercars in matt black recently: in real life, some are painted in matt, others have a plastic film applied to dull down the paint. I've peered pretty closely in sunlight and shade, and the thing that comes across is the apparent "depth" of the finish, and the fact that it's completely smooth, whilst still being matt (no visible surface texture). For the DBS, I'd like to do the "Carbon Black" finish, which has special paint and wheels, and carbon fibre sills etc. There isn't a lot of reference material available online yet, but what there is shows a very subtle black, with very little flake. What I've tried to do below is present some samples... I'll tell you at the end what I'm going to use to achieve these effects, but I thought the reference material might help some of you to make yor own calls. All of the samples are pieces of plastic drainpipe, primed with auto primer (Halfords grey) that has been lightly sanded with 6000 git micromesh. I'd prep a real body in more detail, but life's to short to do it for a mule! All of these are painted with Zero Paints products... you could have the same effect with other brands, but this is my brand of choice. Left to right: Matt Black; Matt Black with a brushful of the pigment from Graphite Grey; Jet Black with a spot of Mica Silver (very fine flake); Jet Black with a fingernail of real graphite powder (sold as lubricant in my hardware store) The same order, in sunlight. You can just about see that no.2 (graphite grey) is a bit lighter and smoother, and no.3 (mica) has a bit more sparkle With clearcoats. The two on the left are using 2K Matt clear, but only over half the surface. I've never used this before, so it's a learning curve. The two on the right are "Carbon Black" candidates, and are using the usual gloss 2K clearcoat. You can definitely see the difference on the coated and noncoated matt finishes. In this image, the difference between the two "Carbon Blacks" on the right isn't very obvious. Finally, here are the finishes in more detail. Each image shows the finish in full sun and in shade: Pure matt black, with 2K matt clearcoat on one half Matt black with a touch of graphite grey pigment, with 2K matt clearcoat on one half Jet black with a brushful of mica silver residue, with 2K clearcoat Jet black with graphite powder lube, with 2K clearcoat. MY conclusion from these is: for a matt black supercar, I will use the "matt black plus graphite grey" mix, with a VERY light matt clear coat for the Carbon Black DBS, I will use the "jet black plus graphite powder lube" mix, with the 2K gloss clear coat. Thank you for your attention - I hope I've wasted time so you don't have to! bestest, M.

You could also try getting hold of a silver "Gundam Marker", made by Gunze Sangyo. I have a couple and the "chrome" effect of the ink is pretty impressive. bestest, M.

This is the very old (c.1960) Merit kit, as reissued by Smer. Built more or less OOB, because it's for a display showcasing older kits, so aftermarket wheels are a "no-no". I'm pleasantly surprised by how good the basic shapes are, and the parts count - since these Merit kits were also released in "slot-car" versions. I'm not sure that they all have the engine detail that this one and the Talbot Lago (also reissued by Smer) include. There are some things that I'll do differently on the Lago build - specifically I'll mask the radiator detail before doing ANY priming, painting or clear-coating. I added a fuel tank and the padding around the seat in the cockpit, and changed the instrumentation slightly. I might noodle a little bit more - those bonnet-catches are now annoying me - but overall I'm pretty impressed for a 1950s vintage kit... bestest, M.

Thanks very much, folks! Not so sure about the "modern" techniques ;-P. I'm building this "old school" to demonstrate that some kits from the 50s are pretty good, so, yes, I'm gonna use the clear plastic discs for the spokes! I've reworked them by scribing on the BACK, filling the lines with silver paint, and then polishing the disk to remove the paint from everywhere except the scribed lines. Not there yet, but definitely on the home straight: I've put some Milliput around the seat to represent the padded covering on the pictures I've got. It'll be painted "chamois leather" colour when it's set. The wheels don't look so bad, IMHO... Real wire wheels would be better, but they're not a disgrace, especially in the right light... bestest, M.

"almost as if"? I think we should give them the credit where it's due... Tamiya's 1/32 Spitfire IX (which I have in the "build pile" right now) is just FULL of examples of incredibly careful thought about parts breakdown, sprue layout, sprue gate locations, ejector pins, potential sink marks and the rest. I think we can assume that the mould separation line is where it is because that's the easiest place to clean it up, and that it's "prominent" because that, actually, makes it easier to see clearly and to remove. I suspect that a careful "shave" with a new #10 blade and a polish may get rid of it without even needing much sanding... I shall see when mine arrives - it's left Japan this morning, apparently! bestest, M.

Maybe I'm not being clear. This: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Chequered-Flag-Years-Motor-Racing/dp/0297824023/ is a one-volume history of motor racing, well illustrated, but which talks about drivers, races and results. What I want is an equally well-illustrated one volume account of the evolution of the design and engineering of sports and racing cars, identifying and explaining the key innovations in engine and car design and technology, the breakthrough cars, the key designers and so on, ideally with good scale drawings of the important cars (to 1:43, like those in the Tanner Ferrari book) and cutaways. And even more ideally, if it could cover more than simply F1 and its immediate ancestors - I'd like to know about Quattro rally cars, Bentley 4 litres, Aston DBR9s and the rest as well... Does that help? bestest, M.

Hi, all... I recently bought a book called "The Chequered Flag - a history of motor racing", which is quite an interesting read, but... 1) It only covers what became Formula One and the Indy 500, not Le Mans or endurance races, nor rallying, not GT racing or DTM 2) It's really only about seasons, drivers and results (and a LOT of crashes and deaths!) - there's very little about the development of the racing cars, or engines, and the way they are optimised for different kinds of motor sports. So, can anyone recommend me a book about the history and development of the racing sports car, in its different specialised forms? Ideally one that's a bit easier to read than the very technical descriptions in Hans Tanner's Ferrari book, which assumes you already know what different kinds of suspension or valve arrangements are called, rather than explaining the innovation the first time it happens! Thanks! bestest, M.