Matt Bacon

Autocar driver review here, if you haven't watched it already: 599 GTO driven by Autocar Never mind the 1/24 version... I want the real thing! The best value supercar on the road today, they reckon: 80% of the performance and handling of the 599XX at 30% of the price ;-) bestest, M.

Looks good to me! Thanks to hobby-show.info for the original image. You can see the rest of their excellent Shizuoka show coverage here: http://www.hobby-show.info/shizuoka2010/ bestest, M.

I think I've used up all of my model-hunting luck for the next few years! I was doing my usual trawl of the charity shops in Ilkley today, and Cancer Research has a nice box of the Revell Marauder in "Flak Bait" markings, for £2.50, so I bought it. Then I spotted the old Revell Lanc in the "jigsaws pile" for £3, so I bought that, too. By then, I wondered if they had anything else, so I asked. The nice lady said "No, but there might be a car.... it'll be a bit more expensive because it's James Bond. OK, I said,hardly daring to breathe, "I'll take a look." And out she came, saying "It's a lot more I'm afraid - six pounds fifty..." And here it is: Of course, I'll be building it, not selling it! bestest, M.

I think you're gonna have to justify that - comparing the photos of Mike's excellent and very clean build with the ones in the DBS brochure, which I have here (and he has several shots from angles which are almost identical to those in the brochure), I can't see any major issues. I've not seen one in the flesh, for long at any rate... best regards, Matt

...from a Smer box, bought painlessly and very reasonably from Modelimex... This is for a display of classic British kits, so I'm doing it "old school", without any aftermarket, like wire wheels! Here's the box 'o' bits: Not the best presented kit in the world, I'll agree, but what's there looks pretty much the right shape. A pretty large proportion of the parts go to making up the engine! This is only the main block - there's a supercharger, radiator and so on still to come. This is the engine trial fitted in the (three-part) body. The only addition I've made is the supercharger air intake trunking, made from softened, bent and sanded sprue (it's a good job the runners are so thick!). Not all the Alfettas had this arrangement, which excuses the fact that it's missing (a much shorter intake is provided), but I thought it looked cool, and it's what the cars in my reference images have... And here's the body finally assembled. It's not as much of a filler queen as it looks - there are no gaps to fill, it's just to make sure the step at the join disappears completely when I sand it smooth. I'm filing the outside of the tyres back (which are just propped in place) prior to fitting a band of plastic card to represent the tread better... There's more to do in the cockpit, but since it needs to be masked off, I'm leaving it until I've painted the body... Talking of which, if anyone has any good ideas about how to mask the suspension and brake drums while I paint the body, I'm all ears... bestest, M.

Hi, guys... I picked up the Airfix box of the Aoshima 1/24 MGB kit in my local model shop for a very reasonable price. It loks like a really nice kit, and includes parts for both the early chrome-grille version and the later "rubber bumper" version. Now, I can't stand the rubber ones, and I want to build it as the '67 model. I've read somewhere that the "ride height" needs adjusting for the early version, because the original kit set-up is for the later model. Can anyone tell me _how much_ lower the early suspension was, and ideally, exactly how I go about lowering it? The front axle has wishbones, the rear is just held on two leaf springs bestest, M.

Thanks, Chris, and don't worry, that's just me not pushing the tyre and wheel back into place properly and not noticing until AFTER I'd taken the pics... The profile shows the "sit" straight out of the box. I didn't adjust anything... bestest, M.

This is the excellent Revell 1/24 kit, done in the style of the Cali that Top Gear took down the world's deepest road tunnel in Norway a few issues back. In terms of building, the only issue I found was that you need to fit the ?radio/aircon? controls at the front of the central console (part 41) the opposite way to the picture in the instructions, so that the interior will fit up against the dashboard and allow you to close the whole body without breaking something. But when you do close it, the precision of the fit is VERY impressive... The exterior is Zero "Bianco Fuji" with two-pack clear-coat. The interior is Citadel acrylics, replicating a pattern I had fun making in the Ferrari.com configurator. The rear panel, diffuser and front wing are in carbon fibre - another configurator option! Overall, I'd recommend this kit highly. Bring on the 458s... bestest, M.

Thanks, guys... here's the last bulletin from the bench before I clean her up and take some finished pictures in the daylight tomorrow: I've got both versions, as well - except I got mine because I bought the closed top version on eBay, the seller sent me the wrong one, and when I pointed it out they sent the right one and told me just to keep the incorrect open top kit! Great traders! I think for the open top one, I'm going to do it in "classic" California style - dark burgundy red body, with the front wing vents and the trim on the air intake in chrome, silver wheels, and tan upholstery. I've got the 275 NART Spider to sit alongside it... bestest, M.

Fitted together now... ...and I think the fit is pretty impressive, It really does snap together, with just some tacking at the front and sides needed... A LOT better than the 612... bestest, M

Thanks, chaps... I've toned down the valve covers and intake manifold with some matt varnish - it looks much better. Here's a TOP tip for builders of this model, though: The instructions would have you fit the additional console (part 41) (aircon controls? radio?) at the front of the central console between seats the wrong way round. If you put it in as shown, it fouls the bottom of the installed dashboard, and prevents the interior sitting up properly into the bodyshell, and eventually would stop you getting the floorpan/chassis into position. Simply fit it the other way up, with the cut out-on the bottom, fitting over the silver trim. Then everything fits together nicely, without forcing it... I hope this helps someone! bestest, M.

I have two of the old Merit 1/24 racers in Smer boxes - the Talbot Lago and Alfa Romeo Alfetta. Instead of wire wheel spokes, they have disks of transparent plastic with spokes engraved on. The rear of the wheels are solid disks which the spokes sit in front of, which is correct for the original full size vehicles. Because these kits are being built for a display at Scale Model World, where we're trying to show what you can achieve with "classic kits", I'd like to build them as "out of the box" as possible, which means replacing the wheels with Herb Deeks etched wire Borranis is not an option, although they look pretty good in the build-ups I've seen! My first thought is to thin and polish the back of the disks as much as possible and draw on the spokes witha Gundam marker; I'm wondering whether to matt down the front surface to prevent reflections between the spokes. But I haven't really got a clue. Has anyone made a convincing effect with transparent plastic "wire" wheels an wants to tell me how they did it? Or anyone got any other bright ideas to experiment with? best regards, Matt

This is the rather nice Revell kit, looking a bit like the one that Top Gear (the magazine) took to the deepest road tunnel in the world, in Norway a few months ago. Zero Bianco Fuji for the body, kit wheels, stripped and painted black, and the interior configured on the Ferrari site in Citadel acrylics. I think I'm on the home straight now... best regards, Matt

I use Games Workshop's "Citadel" paints, which are water based acrylics intended for painting wargame miniatures. I think they dry with a perfect semigloss for leather...and if you want something shinier, you can overcoat with one of their washes, which snap out the raised detail as well, and are available to highlight any colour. I'm sure you could spray them, but they brush paint perfectly over primer, without brushmarks. There are stockists all over the UK and US, and in many places worldwide. You can find your nearest using this: http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/storelocator/search.jsp I'll try to get some pictures of my Ferrari California WIP to show what they look like... bestest, M.

Hey, all... I just acquired the Gunze Ferrari 250 GT SWB kit, which shares many parts with the GTO. One that it doesn't share is the radiator grille, which is made up of photo etched slats, horizontal and vertical, notched to slot into each other. It looks very intimidating, but also like it could look very good if I don't mess it up. In the interests of which, have any of you guys built one, or anything like it, and have any advice to share on what to do to get the best result (or what to avoid!)? best regards, Matt

This may help. This is from the instructions for the Gunze "Hi-Tech" Jaguar XK-E, with PE "wire" wheels: You want the two "denser" wire frets at the bottom, dished downwards, one clockwise and one anticlockwise (ie flip one over before dishing it), then the spacer, and then the two "lighter" wire frets, one flipped over, dished "upwards... HTH, bestest, M.

If a well-known kit manufacturer, perhaps with a "track record" in 1/32 scale model car kits, were going to make a series of new kits of modern sports cars (for example a Veyron, a Noble M6, a Koenigsegg CCX and a few others that have been driven for a popular TV programme by a mystery man who wears white...), then should they be in 1/32, to continue the "traditional" scale, or should they be in 1/24? Disclaimer: I have no information or knowledge about any such kits, I'm just asking because I have my own view, but I'd be interested to know if the forum feels the same. Of course, your view carries more weight if you also had any interest in building European road/GT cars, if the kits came to be... bestest, M.

That sounds like it's drying before it hits the surface. What are you thinning it with? Tamiya paints don't need thinning very much, but I've heard people use all KINDS of different things. I would use Tamiya thinner, IPA, or Screen Wash, and I would get some "Acrylic Flow Enhancer" from your local art shop and put a drop (literally) in your mix. Make sure it's thoroughly mixed before spraying. Don't use too high a pressure, either. I don't know what settings to recommend for an Aztec. There's no point in talking about "PSI" - it's all to do with the air flow rate through the brush. I have a Badger 150 and an Iwata Eclipse, and "40psi" is barely getting started with the Badger, but it's a hurricane through the Iwata. Tweak the settings upwards, slowly... you want just enough pressure to stop "speckling", but not much more. Basically, don't try to master your paint/airbrush combination on a model! Get some primer (I use bumper (plastic) primer from the local auto shop - Halfords in the UK) and spray some plastic soda bottles and let them dry. These are your "mules". Then, set aside an hour, and mix some paint and thinner and flow enhancer - when they say "like milk" what they mean is if you swirl it round in the jar, it coats the sides before it runs downwards. Then, do some practice. Try different pressures, more or less paint flow, closer or further from the surface. Basically, the big thing to remember is that an airbrush is NOT a "spray gun" You don't just hold it a foot from the surface and move it backwards and forwards at maximum pressure. If you get the pressure right, you can hold it an inch from the surface, with a very low paint flow, and "colour in" a part that's a few MM square. An airbrush is able to do everything from an "0" fine point brush to a 1" wide flat brush, all in one tool - that's why they're so expensive. Aztecs have lots of tips, but I suspect you probably only ever use one or two - I work most of the time with a 0.5mm nozzle and needle on my Iwata, and VERY occasionally switch to a 0.35mm and "crown cap" combination for very close detail work, and that's with enamels and acrylics and several different kinds of thinner. So, if I had two recommendations: 1) Remember it's a brush, not a spray gun 2) Practice, practice, practice on something that's not a model... Good luck! bestest, M.

Thanks, Guys... your encouragement is much appreciated! The wheels on the GTO are etched metal, provided in the kit. It's the Gunze kit, re-boxed by Airfix in the early 90s as "Hi-Tech", and it was a gift (along with the 1/24 Jag XK-E from the same stable) from someone who was never going to build them, so in value for money terms, it was priceless! The E-Type has a full white metal engine and "origami" etched brass spaceframe, so it's more of a challenge... More pictures, like this: are here: http://gallery.me.com/cmatthewbacon#100238&view=grid&bgcolor=black&sel=2 The seats are just Citadel (Games Workshop) Skull White paint, hand painted with a fine brush, apart from the outside edge, which was wide enough to hold some Tamiya 6mm masking tape to get a sharp edge. I wouldn't like to build ONLY Ferraris, but if someone told me I could only build models of one make of car for the rest of my life, Modena would be my spiritual home, just as if I could build only one type of aircraft, it would be a Spitfire... bestest, M.

This is the excellent Hasegawa 1/24 kit, which has to be one of the best engineered and best fitting kits I've ever built... Highly recommended! bestest, M.

Thanks very much for all the positive responses, guys - they're much appreciated... The figures come with the "Goldfinger" boxing of the kit. They're injected plastic rather than resin, but as you can see the detailing and likeness is pretty good - the only slightly disappointing area is the hands. To put them in perspective, though, this: is the Eagle Editions resin George Preddy figure... which is in 1/32! Mind you, this is sculpted by John Rosengrant, who is a master. best regards, Matt

Thanks, Bob... that was what I needed to get the confidence to try the "make or break" (literally!) And it worked: Thanks! best regards, Matt

Hi, all... I'm just about ready to bring together the chassis and body of the 250 TR, and I'm looking for tips from those of you that have done it. With a nice shiny and decalled body, the last thing I want is to hear a loud "snap" as I flex it outwards to slip the chassis in... The instructions, despite having numbered sequences for several other stages aren't at all clear about how the chassis goes in. I'm assuming you slide the radiator end into the nose, then swing up the back end into place, flexing the "wings" outward so it'll go in. It's not obvious (to me at any rate) where the location points are, and the shape makes it almost impossible to "dry fit" to check everything - once it's in, it's staying in! Soo... any ideas, anyone? bestest, M.

This is all very useful stuff, guys... now, can anyone in the UK provide me with "translations" for some of these products? I have some "Household Ammonia" (what it says on the bottle); would that do it? Is "Fairy Power Spray" like "Dawn Power Dissolver? bestest, M.

This is a bit of a "blast from the past" - it's a few years old, and there are some things I'd do differently these days. It's the big Airfix kit, built straight from the box for an "Airfix 1977" display at SMW '07. The only "tweaks" are a reworked instrument panel, replacing the thick transparent part with CD-case plastic lenses, and a linkage for the brake lever, which looked a bit silly just flopping about! I picked up the kit for under £30 in a Modelzone sale, and it was worth every penny - not sure about the £80 retail price, or what it goes for on eBay these days... If you like the look of it, but don't want to pay the steep price, the Heller 1/24th kit is virtually identical, just half the size, and is easy find as well... best regards, Matt