Jim Gibbons

Wow...that is a beautiful model you built! I remember reading an article of the racing version you're going to build that was owned by the artist Peter Helck. His vintage racing paintings are magnificent. I agree with many of you; it's so great to see this recent influx of brass era cars being modeled.

Nice paint and color choice. I'm not a huge lowrider fan, but I enjoy the paint jobs and graphics done on them in this forum, and the cars used as subjects are often some of my favorites. Looking forward to seeing the progress on this. I just raised my beer as a salute!

Bad Spellers of the World, Untie!

Mama said there'd be days like this...

Beautiful; I love it! The first solo model I ever built was this one. I need to find another of these, as I missed it when it was reissued. I built a 1/43 Starter resin model of this car, too, that is shown in my gallery. This is perhaps my all time favorite Ferrari sports racer.

The badging on the coves appears to be tampo printed; no 3D effect.

That was very cool! Thanks for sharing; you are indeed, a lucky man!

Outstanding! Another paper modeler! I have a Schrieber-Bogen VW Bus model to work on. Is the truck model of your design? I'd definitely like to follow that.

I get my Goo Gone at Dollar type stores; small "sample" bottles for a buck. Can't guarantee you'll find it the same way, but that's where I get mine. Any major retail store should have the standard size.

I sold VWs from '85 -'87, and I remember seeing pictures of the Quicksilver in one of the automotive magazines of that time. My friend and I got a good laugh out of it. I do have to admit that's it's one of the more tolerable Zimmer designs, but I agree; that rear end is pretty awful. A little anecdote on the first series Excaliburs; they actually looked decent, and appeared closest to the MB SSK. We lived on Long Island at the time, and dad had a '65 Mercedes 190D. We were on the Southern State Parkway, and we were passed by an early Excalibur. The driver must have seen me staring with my jaw dropped, and that he was next to a real MB (which were fairly uncommon at the time,) as he waved as he passed. I had the 1/32 Pyro SSK model at the time, so I was mesmerized. I recently got an original Pyro SSK off Ebay for a song (under $10), and hope to start a WIP topic on it soon.

Very cool, Mike. Can't believe I missed this build when you first posted it. Superb!

Nice job, Lee; it's refreshing to see a '30s Ford built stock. By the way, I'm also a former Army Engineer; HHC 854th Engr Bn '79-'91

I also vote for Goo Gone, but as Paul experienced, don't soak parts in it, just apply and rub. It contains petroleum distillates, so it will attack certain plastics if left on too long. I have an ostomy, and have to change the appliance weekly. The fabric "bandage" area leaves behind a lot of adhesive residue. I got tired of paying ridiculous amounts of money for medical adhesive removal pads, which are pretty much Goo Gone in an individually packaged wipe. I decided to try Goo Gone, and haven't looked back. I then clean the area with isopropyl alcohol to remove the "greasy" film that Goo Gone leaves. Now that everyone is thinking "Wow, that is just too much information," I will state that if Goo Gone can be used in the manner I do, it should be okay for models!

That one I can't answer; the last time I glossed over paint and decals was on a Tamiya Lotus 7, and it sat painted for well over a month before I added decals and clear. I prefer to have a patient, Zen attitude when it comes to models!

By the way, I've never had a cracking problem so far with Tamiya clear over decals and Tamiya paint. You should be fine since you are using Tamiya paint throughout. I can't vouch for using their clear over someone else's lacquers like automotive paint, though.

Can't say I can actually answer your question, but here's what I do. I used to clearcoat over decals. I don't anymore (especially after the days back when, using Testors clear that yellowed in a heartbeat.) I'll only clear over decals (now using Tamiya clear) when I'm building a vintage racer where the numbers or graphics were painted on. Decals that depict vinyl graphics or "stickers" as used these days, don't have a high gloss finish. If I'm going to gloss a paintjob, I do it before the decals. After the decals are applied and fully set, I wax over them with The Treatment or Tamiya's Model Wax. Regardless, I always allow my decals to dry completely. I have no clue as to what is the right time to wait, as I will let the model sit for several days after decaling before I wax. It likely won't need that much time, but I'm overcautious, especially when building an older resin race car model for someone, and chances of getting new decals are zero. Humidity, whether you used a setting solution, etc., can be a factor in proper drying. I don't have a dehydrator as some of the folks here do, so I "wet my finger, and stick it into the wind" to determine when I feel the decals are completely set. Hopefully, someone with better info than I'm giving can answer that.

This is really looking good! For windows, lenses, etc., I use craft Tacky Glue. It's kind of a thick white glue, and I've had great results with it. I have the Testor's clear glue with the needle tip applicator, but somehow, I always return to Tacky Glue applied with a toothpick.

I agree with Skip; if nothing else, it might attract folks who don't know what a Tatra is, or even have a clue what one looks like. You're doing an amazing job on this, and I'm enjoying the progress photos.

Great Tony; I hope you will find the information you need. I knew of the Lozier, but not a lot about them. I was looking through Skip's link with the Indy video, and what caught my eye was the use of ball, rather than babbit bearings. Pretty neat. Not too many manufacturers did this. The last car I knew that used this practice was 2 stroke SAAB engines. There may be more that I'm not aware of. Regardless, a Lozier must have been a very fine piece of machinery in its day. I'm impressed. Now I'm going to have to find one of the Pyro models of it!

I just got my issue of Hemming's Classic Car magazine, and they had a short blurb on the Champlain Valley Transportation museum in Plattsburg, NY. One of the two Lozier's they have on display is on loan from Jeff Lozier, the grandson of Henry Lozier. You might try to contact the museum to try to get in touch with him; maybe he would have information on your Indy car. http://www.cvtmuseum.com/gallery.htm

Whew, that upper differential might be better sculpted from Milliput putty, etc. The asymmetry will be tricky to adapt from kit parts.

Skip, Testor's Graphite Metallic (assuming they still make that color) might be a good match. I built a '59 Eldorado for a friend using that color, and I was happy with the results. Looks great with a red interior.

Charlie, great save on the Byrds video. You made Harry and me very happy!

x2 on the Byrds

Thanks, guys; I knew this would be enjoyed. It's so cool to see a well maintained original, parking lot scars and all. This is just such a good looking car with the right colors, interior, engine, etc. Way cool.