LDO

The way he uses "Late Model" and "Modified" when describing his wheels. I don't know if he's talking about wheels for cars or trucks. Why not make a separate page for each type?

I'm staying in Kaufman, about 20 miles South/East of Dallas. Looking for a club to visit. Thanks

His website is hard to read. I'm sure he understands what he's telling us, but I don't. Is there any other source for dually wheels...and tires?

I want dually wheels but don't know where to get them. this is my first model of a work vehicle and I'm clueless on aftermarket stuff. Oh btw it's going to get at least one more full-width step up to the box. Maybe two. They're going to look odd though. I'm going make them have rough texture then paint the tops bright green. This will simulate Astroturf. I'm getting that on my real truck because I once slipped and busted my @$$ on diamond plate.

If you're using a soldering iron, you may have trouble making enough heat to solder brass rod. I tried soldering rectangular-section rod for a 1/24 pickup chassis and a propane torch didn't make enough heat.

In a few years, when I get my master Plumbing license, I want to have a company of my own. I decided to build a box truck model and put my name on the side of it, just for kicks. I don't know if anyone uses extended-cab pickups for a box truck, but the hobby shop I went to didn't have any single-cab trucks, so I went with what they had. I'm sure I'll build another one in the future. The box is sitting on a little stand to hold it at ride height. It looks high but it's just right. I measured one of the trucks at work. The box is shorter than the truck I measured, but I wanted to keep the wheelbase 184 inches. Some trucks have long boxes, some are short. It's only a concept model, not a replica of any specific truck. I love Evergreen styrene, btw. Sorry if the pics are too big. I'm away from home and can't resize them here.

Billy- To heck with bare plastic. We're breaking new ground here. We're pioneers! Use a primer that's commonly available to hobbyists and report the results. I'll be using Tamiya's grey spray can primer. I may grab a can of their white as well. What is the non-model primer that's so popular? Is it Duplicolor? Can you try that one? It would be cool to have some new color options that are readily available to most of us.

I saw the Tamiya Lexan paints at a hobby shop just a couple of hours ago. It looks like they have some cool colors not available in the "plastic line". Somebody's gotta try 'em. Who's it gonna be? I can test them on a new issue of a Revell '99 Chevy Pickup and an old issue of a Tamiya Porsche 962. I don't have any other kits with me, but I can also try them on Evergreen sheet plastic. It may be a couple of days, though. The LHS is 40 miles away. I am really curious to see how they'll work out.

The problem with "unchopping" is that you will have two glue joints per pillar. You'll have a piece of filler material, be it plastic or metal, "floating" in the middle of a structural member. If it were going to be a rat rod with weld marks showing, this would be no big deal. If you want it to look stock, you're going to have major problems when you try to smooth out the body work. It will come unglued. With eight joints to unglue...well...it doesn't look good. There's no easy way to do this. You could copy it in resin, then unchop the resin piece. Still not fun, but at least CA sticks to resin. You can reinforce the joints with very light fiberglass cloth. I've done that one chopped cars with very thin pillars and it works. As far as cutting two of these truck to raise the roof, you've got a problem there too. If the A pillars are slanted, you'll need to shorten the roof. That's one more glue joint to come unglued when trying to smooth it out. If the roof has any "tumblehome" (posts angled inward when looking at it from the front or back), the roof will need to be narrowed. Again, one more glue joint. IMHO, have it copied in resin or find out of one is already out there in resin.

The best way? Use a mill. You can get them all the right length and make sure the angle is right on both ends.

Nice work. I can't wait to see the Maharajah Rolls-Royce.

Daily driver is a '95 Olds Achieva. No mods. Project car is an '88 Mustang hatchback with 2.3 liter inline 4. No mods yet, but I have an '89 5.0 convertible for its drivetrain. I'll swap in the 5.0 and drive it like that while building a big-inch small block based on a World products 351 block. It's going to have some serious hp but it will be a comfortable driver too. I want a creme-colored leather interior for it. I'm thinking medium candy blue for the exterior.

There were two different guys working on masters but I haven't heard anything for a while.

I wish they would let people know on the box that it's for experienced modelers only. Some lady is going to buy one of those for her nephew and the 3-piece body and lack of chrome will turn him off to model cars forever.

Is it going to be saffron orange and natural aluminum?

B. The subject matter is so unispiring that it's not worth commenting about. B Is the closest answer for me. Not a perfect answer though. I would simply say that monster trucks are not my cup of tea. I wouldn't want to sound snobby. I love Top Fuel, but many people feel it isn't "real" racing. To each their own. "C. Everybody so busy debating the quality of some old resin (or is it an old resin caster) that they didn't see it." UGH! I wish this would go away.

Wow. That's exactly what I was going to say. Use the old Monogram Pro Stock/Pro Street Thunderbird engine. Strip the chrome or gold off the valve covers and use a metalizer-type paint on them...or go bananas and smooth them out and cover with carbon fiber decals. As for paint, I'm partial to purples and blues. Check out Irvin Arter's '50 Cadillac for some nice color.

The Maharajah car? Add my kind words too. It looks great. Yellow and black is a great combo for these old luxury cars.

While deployed, I won a resin kit of the 1928 Stutz Blackhawk LSR made by Etzel's Speed Classics (resin kit). It had been a grail for about 15 years. When I posted about it on another board, someone showed a photo of a 1/24 resin Ferrari 250LM. It was OOP and a grail for him. He said he spent 4 figures on it. I felt like the 90 bucks I spent on the Blackhawk was a bargain after that.

I'm chopped liver.

{tap tap tap} Is this thing on? What advantage does the resin '70 Camaro have over AMT's fairly recent '70?

Does it need to be FWD? If so, good luck. If going RWD, check out the AMT '66 Buick Riviera. If you don't have one, I do. Post wheelbase and track measuerments of the Toronado and I can let you know if it will be a suitable donor. Other posters could also check other models for suitability.

What's wrong with the AMT '70 1/2 Camaro? The '79 looks nice.

Was it the guy from SA forums who wanted us to e-mail Shelby to make this happen? But seriously, I hope it does happen and I hope it's a good seller. I'll buy a couple...even after telling the guy at SA that he's daydreaming.

Andy- Is it possible to get the wicker printed a bit smaller?