Aaronw

Nope, my kit has been pretty clean, the worst was the mold lines on the body and that took less than 15 min to fix. The frame just took a pass or two with an emery board.

I was going to detail the motor on this (not something I usually do). If you guys are going to cheat and post photos of real motors I quit.

I'm rather fond of the AMT Model T kits, Revell 1929 Ratrod (Model A truck) and Lindberg 1934 Ford truck. They all offer multiple options allowing different versions of stock or custom vehicles. Most car bodies are very hard to get a good paint job by hand but these are broken into small enough bits to allow fairly easy hand brushing if airbrush / spray paint is out of the question. They also allow for a ton of individual customization like building a wood stake body or similar if he wants more of a challenge and look good in mint show room condition or beat up and weathered like they have been sitting in a field for 40 years. These kits offer a lot more than a snap kit without being terribly difficult. By keeping it simple an average beginner could probably knock one out in a few hours, but there is enough detail that one could easily turn that into a longer project. The two Model T kits actually include enough parts to build two complete models, a stock Model T and a custom hot rod style T. The other two kits include a ton of extra parts, but can't quite build two complete models. http://www.modelroundup.com/product-p/amt-fslash-r2-626.htm http://www.modelroundup.com/product-p/amt-fslash-r2-670.htm http://www.modelroundup.com/product-p/rmx-2085.htm http://www.modelroundup.com/product-p/lind-72157.htm For an extra hand you might look into one of these http://www.micromark...-Hand,6736.html There are many variations with more or less arms, a built in magnifying glass etc.

There are a lot of cars that something like this would be silly, like one of those Wierdoes things. With a Model T it wouldn't be hard to find a photo to back that thing up, I like it. If you need barrels I found some some nice wooden barrels at Ozark Miniatures. I put some of the pickle barrels in the back of my Model T pickup. http://www.ozarkminiatures.com/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=290 http://www.ozarkminiatures.com/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=289

You probably need one of the Ghostbusters kits.

As good as the internet is, I find there is still a lot only available in a book. At a quick count have around 100 books on trucks and emergency vehicles, plus another 30 or 40 other (aircraft, military vehicles etc).

I didn't know they would remove the fuel filler door on a race car, but if that is the case then that makes sense. This is my inspiration for the Hudson.

I just popped mine out yesterday, cleaned up the mold lines and got it into primer. I'm very impressed with the fit of the hood. Looks like there should be no problem just leaving it loose so I can show it closed up, or take it off to show off the engine. I know there were some complaints about the mold lines, but they seem to be more due to the shape of the car than any failure on Moebius's end. The body is one big compound curve. One thing I found odd was the fuel filler door, most models cars have it molded in place. Not a complaint, just seems like an odd detail that I can't see many taking advantage of. I'll be doing mine as a National Park Service patrol car.

You did a great job. I built the same kit last year but did it for Eddie Rickenbacker. I was on a 1/72 kick for about 2 years, it was a really nice change getting 10 or 15 models finished in a year and they take up a lot less space too. I've done most of Revell's WW1 aircraft, they are not as detailed as Eduard or Roden kits, but still pretty nice kits that go together well.

Tower Hobby and Squadron both carry PM. Squadron also has the Beech 18 under their Encore brand, this is just the PM kit with resin upgrades. Since the AT-11 was based on the Beech 18 you could probably use a lot of these parts on that kit if you wanted more interior detail.

Ed, love the gooseneck T. Dave, thanks for the book recommendation. I just ordered The Model T, A Centenial History by Robert Casey, but was able to track down the other and have it coming too.

Awesome, thanks! The rail speeder is turning out to be more work than I initially thought it would be. When I started it I thought I was just going to be swapping the wheels for flanged rail wheels. As I dig into it, obviously there is more to it. Should be neat when all done though.

I wish more paint companies would offer the larger 1 oz bottles. A huge expense is the packaging, Floquil (another Testors brand) comes in 1 oz bottles and is nearly the same price (I think it is about $0.50 more) as Testors Model master and Pollyscale despite being twice as much paint. They could even add a little more profit into the price to offset us buying 1/2 as many jars and we would still come out ahead. I would need to build a new paint rack though since I only included 2 shelves for the larger Tamiya / Floquil / Glue bottles. The craft paints Harry mentioned do work pretty well. I don't use them much on plastic models (mostly out of habit) but I do use them on figures, and other projects. Micheals also carrys them if you are like me and don't have a Hobbylobby. I've also come to appreciate artists oils (the stuff in a tube). Used over acrylics they can be used for wood graining, weathering or just as a contrast (panel lines and such). Used alone they can be easily mixed and used as paint. The drying times are long, but that can be used to your benefit allowing some interesting options. They are expensive up front being about $8 for a 2 oz tube, but they go a long way.

Thanks, I actually ordered the Couplet and Centerdoor last week. I didn't realize the coupelet was a 1915. I started doing this, but realized it is the earlier front end.

So as far as I can tell there are not any early (Pre-1923?) Model T kits in 1/25. I'm looking at the 1925 kits from AMT and they include what appears to be the early style grill and headlights for use on the hot rods. I'm thinking it wouldn't be too hard to build a new hood to go with that grill converting the kit to an older style T if those parts are correct. Am I on the right track here?

I've polished before using Future, but you need to wash the parts afterwards to remove any residual polishing compounds. You also need to ensure the paint has had plenty of time to cure before applying the Future (I've had the cracking issue when not allowing a few days for the paint to cure). Acrylics are not much of an issue but I usually try to allow at least 3 or 4 days for spray paint, and usually wait about a week just to be safe.

I've used aluminum foil and gold leaf adhesive like Bill shows, except I painted the adhesive directly onto the areas foiled instead of putting it on the foil. It is far cheaper (a bottle of adhesive is about $3, a roll of foil $0.99). You want to use cheap foil, not a name brand, because the cheap stuff is much thinner. If you were going to do a large surface like an aircraft fuselage or an entire car body (Delorean maybe?) the savings vs BMF would be pretty substantial. I do prefer BMF for intricate detail like logos, door handles and such as it is easier to work with, but the aluminum foil works well. You can use the dull side for more of a natural aluminium metal finish, or the shiny side for a polished aluminium or chrome appearance. I've never tried it, but I have heard you can weather it with mild acids like diluted lemon juice or vinegar to give it an oxidized aluminium look.

You don't have to buff the underlying paint to a shine, just make sure it is relatively smooth. Future will make flat paint gloss but it won't hide major flaws in the paint job. As far as foil goes, I Future before and then afterwards put a coat just over / near the foil. The first coat helps protect the paint, the second coat helps secure the foil and blend in any scratches or other marks left by tools.

Wow, that will make an impressive display. I've seen some smaller scale kits like that, but never one so large.

Thanks. Chris, just saw your reply (and your Goshawk). I've built all 3 of the Monogram interwar kits (Boeing F4B-4, Goshawk and P-6E) and they all go together about the same. The P-6 is the most difficult due to the paint scheme, there is a lot of painting where you would expect decals to be used. I actually borrowed some of the decals from the Olimp P-6E to finish it because they include better decals. I posted the Goshawk in another post. http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=45671 If you get in the mood to do more from the period Olimp has quite a few resin kits, and a handful of plastic kits. Special Hobby has a few short run kits, nice but fiddly (plastic, resin and photo etch). Matchbox and Airfix did a few too. Starfighter decals is a great solution for ancient decals or just to offer more options. http://www.starfighter-decals.com/

Nice work, I built the Goshawk earlier this year. Those old Monogram kits are pretty nice particularly being 40+ years old. Sounds like you got lucky with the decals, mine were showing their age and took alot of work. I have an AT-11 from PM, it looks like it could be the same kit. The I-400 is neat, it looks a bit like the WW1 German Junkers monoplane.

I have a 10/0 liner brush that sounds like what you are looking for. Liner brushes have bristles 2-3x longer than a regular round brush.

If by proper you mean period correct well then no. As a modernized restoration why not. I've seen a blog following an L-700 restoration that is repowering the truck with a Cummins out of a Dodge pickup, so I see no reason a V10 is not a reasonable alternative. The L700 was available with a 470 cid diesel so I would think a V10 could be squeezed in there.

Well by its very nature you are dealing with projects that for one reason or another have not been progressing. I have been getting a little work done, hope to get some photos up later tonight or tommorrow. Luna and Chuck, thanks I have made a little progress on the T and Lancia, so will have more to show.

Great idea, nicer and cheaper than most of the readily available commercial cases. Just for future use, one thing you can do to work around the 5 pic per post thing is to make several posts in a row. Quickly (before others comment) reply to your first post. The software wont let you leave a blank post, but you can leave some basic place holder text (reserved, saved, even just a letter) then the forum software will allow you to make the post. You can do this as many times as you think you will need. This gives you one or more consecutive posts you can go back and edit when you are ready to make a full post. If you are in a smart alecky mood you can do a burma shave kind of thing with the posts until you finish your tutorial.