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Steve, I've been tossing the idea around regarding spraying the clear over the BMF but will most likely clear first then apply the BMF. I never heard of it oxidizing and was only thinking the clear would protect it. I hadn't thought the clear coat might not stick to it too well. Giving some of the problems I've encountered with painting so far I think I'll play it safe and apply the Bare metal Foil after the clear is sprayed. Mike.

What are the advantages/disadvantages of spraying the final clear coat(lacquer) over Bare Metal Foil? Is Bare Metal Foil durable enough on it's own?

Which setting solution is best on decals that are applied on lacquer, specifically Testors Custom Lacquer System? Is setting solution necessary? BTW, I'll be spraying Testors Ultra Gloss Coat over the decals.

Back in the '80's when I was in my teens I used to spray car bodies with enamel paint. The enamel sprayed real smooth and glossy. I never had a paint job with orange peel. I used whatever cheap enamel I could find. I did use Testors enamel a couple of times and it sprayed beautifully. The Testors Custom Lacquer System seems to need a lot of time to cure and while this is happening it's not to durable. Real auto lacquer might be a better alternative since it cures faster or enamel could be the way to go.

Steve, why can't a liquid polish be used before the clear coat? If the body is thoroughly cleaned after a liquid polish is used would that be OK?

This is my first time using the Testors Custom Lacquer System and I thought by airbrushing it would lay down nicer. I sprayed even coats over the whole body and didn't stay on one area longer then any other. I may have been spraying a bit too far for some of the earlier mist coats but I did move in closer with the airbrush for the wet coats. It did airbrush nice and thin which is good. The texture isn't too bad. I might try polishing it a bit with the Micromesh cloths before applying the clear.

Thanks so much for all the great advice Steve and Bill. I was under the assumption that using an airbrush was the better way to go. I did take another look at the body and the sand paper finish isn't as bad as I had thought. It's there but I'm sure with a few coats of clear, from the spray can this time, and polishing should fix the graininess. Steve, you really did put my mind at ease. Your '60 Fury is beautiful! Thanks, Mike.

You live and you learn, saying goes. Overall the finish isn't too bad. The clear will hopefully fix it.

Steve, It's a slight rough texture. I though using the airbrush would have made the paint lay down smooth but that wasn't the case. I used a non-metallic. Maybe in a week I'll polish it with the Micromesh cloths a bit before applying the clear.

It's not exactly an orange peel texture. It has a rough look to it. Is this how the Testors Lacquer color coat looks? I know I have to spray the Ultra Gloss Clear Coat on top and I'll be polishing that with Micro Mesh cloths. This is my first time using the Testor Custom Lacquer System. I used an airbrush to spray on the color coat and will most likely just spray the Ultra Gloss Clear straight from the can. It was too much trouble decanting and using the airbrush in my apartment. I'll spray the clear outside.

I sprayed the body today with the Testors Custom Lacquer using an airbrush. It has a slight texture. Is the texture OK? After I spray on the Testors Ultra Gloss Clear I will be polishing the body. Should I not polish the color coat? Will the clear coat smooth it out? Mike.

Thanks for that information Steve! I have some decals to apply and will be spraying the clear Testors Ultra Gloss Coat over the decals. Should I spray the clear on before applying the decals and then spray some more clear on top of the decals? Or will the decals be OK to apply to the color coat(before decals are applied)? Mike.

Thanks Bill for the advice! I guess I'll spray some more on and see how it is with the clear coat applied. I'm using the airbrush to keep it thinner but I might have overcompensated.

I sprayed it over Tamiya Fine Surface Primer that was sanded before applying the Testors Lacquer. I did decant it and spray it through my airbrush. Its sprayed on very thin. Could it be I overcompensated with the airbrush and it needs a few more coats? The funny thing is I have a small sample I had sprayed a while ago onto a piece of scrap plastic thats pretty durable. I had sprayed (the color) right out of the spray can onto bare plastic to make a quick color chip. I never sprayed any clear coat on top and it's very durable.

When I grabbed the chassis my nail grabbed an edge and the paint scrapped off. Could it be that it needs to cure longer and the clear coat needs to be applied? I sprayed the paint into a spare bottle after shaking the can and poured it into my airbrush cup.

Yesterday I sprayed Testors MM Custom Lacquer System(color coat) paint on some chassis parts and under a hood. I'll finish the body in a few days. I decanted it and sprayed it with my airbrush. Today I noticed it chipped easily. Could this be happening since the clear coat isn't applied yet or since it isn't fully cured? I know this is a 2 part system.

I'm looking for embossing powder to use as carpeting in a tan color that will be a somewhat match to Tamiya Desert Yellow. Does anyone know of a particular brand/color or will I have to just get something close and possibly paint over it.

Thanks Steve.

Steven, Are you saying the Dupili-Color General purpose Sandable Primer is very thin?

How does Dupli-Color Primer compare to Tamiya Fine Surface Primer? Is Dupli-Color General Purpose Sandable Primer a thin primer? I see it comes in white which is what I prefer to use.

Thanks guys!

Elyashiv, did you find the paint yet? On my monitor that orange color looks a lot like Chevy Hugger Orange. Testors has Hugger Orange Lacquer in a spray can. It's a 2 part system that requires a gloss clear lacquer to be sprayed over the base color. If you can get Testors spray lacquer than that might work well for you. Mike.

What shade of gray primer should be used for a '68/'69 Charger chassis? Should it be a light gray, medium gray or light gray primer?

Did you use black embossing powder or did you paint it?

Incredible job on the chassis! The factory overspray is perfectly in scale. BTW, what color gray did you use in the chassis? Is it light gray primer? Do you have a picture before the weathering and overspray was applied?