
62rebel
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Everything posted by 62rebel
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This is why you don't use Testor's tube glue
62rebel replied to Fabrux's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
sounds and looks more like "this is why you don't expect mint unbuilt kits in an auction lot." -
Painting transparent without the paint?
62rebel replied to '08SEAL's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
when i built the Monogram "Rambo" (later the Tour of Duty) Huey chopper, the windshields over the pilot/copilot needed to be tinted green to even come CLOSE to looking right... so, i bought a bottle of Testor's emerald green metallic, and carefully decanted off JUST the "clear" portion into another bottle. by slowly brushing it on those two parts and letting them sit until absolutely dry, they leveled with no streaks and looked the cats johnnies. i've seen several hints/tips on masking the windshield and doing something similar to get the "top tint" effect nearly EVERY American car had from the '60's onward.... -
no, it was horizontally ribbed all the way across. not too difficult to duplicate, i don't think, but if i convert the nose, there's no need to duplicate the tail panel, just use the GT500 piece. maybe i should have titled this a resto-renovation!
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Painting transparent without the paint?
62rebel replied to '08SEAL's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
doesn't Clearview attract plastidids? -
automotive Jolly Ranchers... sweeeet.
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i found a mis-named build thread on that "other" site (i mean, come on, the name is spelled right, right there on the BOX) that showed a concave full width custom taillight treatment on the IH. familiarity with both the AMT '66 Mustang hardtop and '68 Shelby GT500 kits showed me that some of the parts ended up back in the '66 kit, and a couple are in the GT500. i think i can use the GT500 body shell to repair the "funny car" header cutouts on one body, and to convert the nose so i can use the GT500 hood on both. the '66 kit has the custom rear bumper and exhaust quad tips and valance to do them, but neither has the concave taillight section, which i can probably scratch build. i popped my spare Revell '68 GT hood in place on the IH; it fits width wise, but has a pronounced downward droop towards the front and is about 1/8th inch too long. the interior tub is a strange, redheaded stepchild: it looks like a stock Mustang 2+2 interior with the back seat folded down, but has squared off door trim panels engraved in it. the locating pins for the seats put them FAR too close to the dash IMHO. it also has the full length console from the '66 kit molded in, unlike the unit from the GT500 which is molded into the front seat unit. so, i need four more kits to restore two old gluebombs... yikes.
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A Plea for a RUST ONLY Section!
62rebel replied to Dr. Cranky's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
no offense meant, Crankster.... i don't feel that there's any divisiveness between any "camps" of builders at all. good natured (i hope!) ribbing and humor is all part of the hobby. i'd hope that if there is a new section made, that people don't skip by it because of some preconcieved notions regarding the subject matter. myself; i'm an information junkie. i gloam over every thread, every post, trying to see just what's up. -
second keyboard in six months that has to be replaced because of droooollll.... i'd be soooo tempted to put up a track around the upper end of the walls of my living room, with a slight bank and set to run at "idle" speed just for running cars like model trains..... one lane going one direction, one going the other.... hey... that would only take an eight inch wide platform...... where's my rototool.....
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1/25 AMT 1973 Chevy Custom Van - Dirty Donny VANTASY
62rebel replied to disabled modeler's topic in Truck Kit News & Reviews
that is AWESOME in it's sebbentiness. shades of shortened '57 Chebby wagons.... and, you could use the section cut out, to lengthen ANOTHER van! -
dang.... you're right... ain't that a kick in the butt!
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digging on those antique two-piece plastic tires from the sebbenties..... man, i hated those things. and i actually built my Matador X WITH them...... just because.
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A Plea for a RUST ONLY Section!
62rebel replied to Dr. Cranky's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
with respect to Cranky, et al, i think there's room within the standing forums for Rusty/Weathered/Apocolyptic builds... simply make sure to put that descriptive in your title if you think you need to. as it stands, if i see Cranky's signature i know it's gonna be crusty and interesting to look at! -
oooooohhhh.... we don't even HAVE a slot track nearby and i want these BADLY. what's the suggested retail on these?
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1960 Ford F250 4x4
62rebel replied to modelmonster's topic in WIP: Model Trucks: Pickups, Vans, SUVs, Light Commercial
i don't remember which company but i think there was a '59 4x4 in diecast in 1/24.... -
my sad little Mustangs arrived today; two bodies with tubs and chassis plates, core supports, seats, and an engine, some wheel inner halves.... like Dr Goldman looking over Steve Austin, a man barely alive... i can rebuild these; i have the technology..... and some spare parts! i wish i hadn't given away the four or five Shelby GT500 donor kits i had, now. a couple of hours in brake fluid and about an hour in the purple pond got most of what must have been a whole bottle of red Testors enamel brushed on... one interior tub must have a half bottle on it alone. it is STILL in the pond.... George 53; if you're on tonight; these are molded in metallic blue; the one i had was molded in a translucent white. any thoughts on the issue sequence these fall into? i need some more box art views to see what the rest of the car was supposed to look like; else i'm going to use Shelby GT500 rear valance and grille/front valance/hood to repair/modify these. interesting to note that, for a Ford Concept car, it has the cowl vents smoothed over and no wipers... AMT also molded in a guide line for cutting the roof off across the B pillar for some kind of targa roadster..... more mileage from a mold!
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Good news - Tire refresh from Round 2
62rebel replied to Bernard Kron's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
what pleases the eye is not always scale in proportion. what satisfies one does not satisfy another. -
try having a shelf display full of models attended to by a raccoon. well; she was a pet.... and the models, for the most part, were easily repairable..... she just wanted to see how they went together. moved the shelf a LOT higher after that, and got an enclosed glass display case.... my SON broke that one. let him live THAT down....
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Good news - Tire refresh from Round 2
62rebel replied to Bernard Kron's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
decals don't do the trick for me. tires that have raised letters NEED engraved molds to replicate that. racing tires that get painted on lettering can have decals IMHO. Revell's lack of a licensing agreement and resulting lack of ANY sidewall detail is chewing through my tire stash installing recognizable branded tires on my Revell builds. i don't build much late model/modern stuff so a lack of steel belted radials isn't affecting me. decent tread detail and recognizable branding DO. so, go Round2 and keep it up! -
the LHS has a WW2 Jeep with field-improvised armor plating shields around the passenger compartment, brass photo-etch stuff, that's been marked down a couple of times so far... AND it has a machine gun.... don't know if it has a driver, though. might snatch that bad boy up now....
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this appears to be the new Willys tool and not the old SWC kit; the SWC came with opening doors and trunk. i haven't built one of the new Willys but i do have two SWC coupes in the stash, old builtups. very nice detail and paint work!
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get a tall bottle of thinner/brush cleaner and keep it just for cleaning brushes. don't use it for thinning ANY paint after that. keep a separate bottle of thinner for thinning purposes. lots of guys use small gator clips for holding parts, i use clothespins. cementing, i.e., takes on a lot of permutations. i'll confine myself to solvent-based "glue" and solvent "cement". red tube Testors has it's place, where it can't be seen or smeared on surfaces. the best way to use it is to place a small pool on an index card and transfer the amount needed with a toothpick. liquid cement is easiest to use with a brush; fit the parts together and let the solvent flow into the gaps. it sets quickly and won't shrink over time as red testor's tube glue will. gator clips can be found at Radio Shack and in WalMart's automotive section. glue them onto bamboo skewers, and keep a block of styrofoam handy to stick them into while the paint on the part dries. a brush dedicated to each color would get expensive and time consuming after a while; just keep them clean and the bristles straight. once you've collected a bunch of brushes, you can start modifying them for specific purposes, like cutting down bristles for painting trim.
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most of my builds are "replicas" of cars i've had at one time... sometimes more than one, because i HAVE been known to buy another of that same car.... re Falcons, Galaxies, Mustangs, F100's.... well over 150 1:1 cars in my lifetime.... only two Falcons, an F150 and a Taurus, not counting the Fleetwood motorhome, now. (well; doing a replica of the F150, already have replicas of the two Falcons..)
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Testor's clear parts cement gripe
62rebel replied to 62rebel's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
ahhh.. never had to shake the first three, always creamy... canopy glue; is that an R/C product? -
i wonder if Chip has ever been approached by a model company wanting his name on a line.... if so, and if he did, i'd hope he had final say and better taste than the ummm "less than optimum" Rides By Boyd junk.... his visions translate into metal a heck of a lot better than most designer's do.