Scale-Master

All my Fisher kits are molded in a tan resin. Is your's grey resin? Or is that a shiny primer? Just curious...

Thanks! Is that shift gate a metal or photE.part? It is the kit supplied resin part with the kit supplied PE part on top. They suggest using one or the other, but I thought both looked best.

The interior and chassis are almost done, wanted to take a few pictures of the bottom before mounting the skid plates that cover up most of the details. Even much of the engine is obscured by the package shelf/engine cover that goes under the rear window.

The interior is mostly done. Lots of fun playing with textures in this one for the seat cloth and wrinkle finish on the dash. The texture on the dash photographs very different from what it looks like in person. No decal was provided for the steering wheel, yet it is shown in the instructions. I know, I could have made one, but I decided just to hand paint the stallion, just for kicks...

Yes, keep the spoiler. It fits with the rest of styling. Always liked the 60s and 70s era of factory concept and dream cars, this one really is of that style. You must finish it!

Guess my rebellious side is coming out... I found red, yellow, silver and white ones, even a few different shades of blue.

The engine went together in a matter of minutes, but that was with hours of prep and painting done well in advance... As for the finish on the header, it's to replicate Aluma-Cote. It was popular before we went to the ceramic Jet-Hot type coatings...

Hi Simon, I used to use oven cleaner, (still do for enamels and chrome removal), it worked on everything, and when sealed to keep the fumes in as you mentioned, it works quickly. But the Tamiya lacquers are impervious to it. And thanks!

Now I have pretty much everything painted. It should build into the main sub-assemblies pretty quickly...

I would have done it in blue, (hey, most people who know me know how much I like blue), but I already have a blue Alpine in my collection. I wanted something loud and from the 70's looking. White was another color I was toying with, but it was too polite for the look I was going for. Other than the short learning curve I had to go through to learn how to use the Tamiya TS paints, I've had very good luck with them. And the colors available are great. I've always been an airbrusher, these are the first paints worthy of being used from the can for bodies, but I still rely on my airbrushes for most finishes.

I started this Tamiya kit about 5 years ago. I'd take it with me on vacations and trips, (it's been to at least two GSL's and one or two IPMS conventions), when I thought I'd have some down time and wanted to do some model work. Figured I could clean it up and ready it for paint. Never worked on it for more than an hour at a time so not much really got done on it, just racked up a ton of miles on it... Recently we had to have our home fumigated, so I took it with me and worked on it in the old trailer I lived in for a few days. Limited to "clean" work, I prepped every part in the kit. I did bring a can of Tamiya primer and was able to prime the body parts for painting later. The body is visible on the desk lamp base. Here's almost all the parts removed from the sprue and cleaned up. This kit lends itself to cutting all the parts loose as they are easily identifiable even without the part numbers. The chassis pan, wheels and engine have been painted their base colors here. Here are body parts painted TS-22 Green. Best rattle can job I've done to date, (I'm more of an airbrusher), even though arguably it is a somewhat homely color.... A couple days later I noticed a little defect in the top of the front fender. It is barely visible in the above pictures (I know where to look...), but stood out to me in person. Just a tiny nit or bubble, not sure exactly, but no worries... Went after it with polishing cloths and removed it, but it was too deep and affected the color density/uniformity. Had to paint some touch up. I thought by heating the can (TS-22) in warm water would allow me to lay on a thinner coat of paint. Well... I don't know if it made it any thinner, it may have, but it really made the propellant active, and a bit angry too. Tons of those little pin hole bubbles and a bunch of instant runs, and that particular paint apparently dries very fast, especially in this weather. I decided to strip it, no other way to salvage it. What a Bummer! But the 100% denatured alcohol only made it worse, just a gooey mess. Normally it works as a great quick and clean stripper for Tamiya lacquers. Even left it to soak for over an hour, way longer than any other stripping exercise I've performed in the past. Had to use another approach... So I grabbed a box of baking soda, and plugged my little media blaster (looks like a single action airbrush) into the outside compressor and went to town. I spent the same amount of time (or maybe even less) using it as I had spent trying to chemically remove the paint (not counting soaking time) and ended up with a fully stripped yet detail salvaged body. And my personal ph level had been adjusted too... I did look a bit like Neil Young in a scene from Rust Never Sleeps though... Ready to prime, again... Had another good experience shooting from (the room temperature) can, actually second can, of TS-22. I have been attempting to paint as much as possible before assembling the parts. Again, this approach may not work well for some kits, but this one appears to fit well too... Later...

Thanks Jairus! And Thanks Gregg!!! Third time in the last couple days someone has congratulated me and the mailman still hasn't delivered my copy. Maybe today...!? You know I'm going straight to page 40 when I do get it...

The seat was an important part of the build for the client. I matched the red to some photos with a mix of Tamiya acrylic paints that I hand brushed over a base of black enamel. It took several light coats. That gave it some depth and shading. Then I used my Iwata airbrush to put a fine "splatter" of very dark gray for the "pattern". I considered making a decal, but decided it would come out almost as random when it came to application, but with some uniform areas too (maybe even looking like a boo-boo), and probably too heavy to look right in scale, those dots are really tiny. Several dry coats of clear flat made it look more like the cloth material instead of a vinyl or leather.

Ferrari 512S Final Paint This one is painted with Tamiya TS-49 with a urethane clear coat. Had a reaction with just the numbers and roundels with the clear, first time with this clear. The other decals (from the same sheet accepted the clear with no adverse effects). Oh well, a bit of sanding and polishing on the affected spots, an overall wax, and voilà , it's ready for assembly...

Finally got around to shooting the final paint on this Ferrari last Friday and stashed it in a closet over the weekend. Testors Model Master Italian Red. I must say I am pleased to see how it looks now!

I'm glad I only built the "simple" one! Keep it up Harry, you're doing very well with this one! I am enjoying only watching, not participating... Can't wait to see it finished!

I am currently working on one as a model. The Ferrari 850 Monza. The resin seems to be a good "alloy" for a slot car, but a significant amount of prep was needed on the body I am working on before it could be painted, but I also am adding lights and an opening hood. Here is a link to the thread (within this site) of what I've done to it so far. http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=5680

I never noticed the similarity of the lines on the roof/canopy to a German helmet before... And great job by the way Dave!

I used a two part polyester primer/sealer: An hour or so later I wet sanded it smooth: (The hood scoop has been opened up.) Then sprayed a base coat of white: It's White now, hope to get the Red on it today, better find something to paint Blue too...

Been working on this for a friend/client. It's a Fisher resin kit. Painted it with Tamiya red a month or so back, just now getting on to the decals and interior and mechanicals... It's just set together, not cemented together yet.

Yep, that's where the engine came from, and Thanks!

Here's the engine, so far... And the chassis and suspension being mocked up, again, so far...

Yes, you both are, I suggest you take it up with him though... Think you're cute enough for him?

Very nice rendition of one of my favorite cars. I think that is the best detailed engines I've ever seen built up in one of those kits.

Thanks for the kind words, I actually got the idea from the metal master himself...Morgan Barclay. He has been an inspiration to me, but I work in plastic...cause it's easier!