Scale-Master

Pete’s comments are valid and descriptive of the way many shows go. But my point was more to accountability on the part of the promoters, organizers and judges. It can outwardly look really bad if a judge for example wins an award; especially in a close call and even if he honestly earned it. So rather than let it become a case of an entrant feeling slighted, it should be protocol to have as many of the judges on hand as possible after the awards have been announced to alleviate these situations. If it can be explained to the entrants, many if not most of them will understand. And certainly it goes a long way to cultivate a positive inclusive environment, not one of “us and them†between the judges and entrants. I have been to contests where the judges are anonymous and have been to shows that the judges are conspicuously absent after the awards presentation. When questions regarding the outcome were asked of the staff, no one would come forth that had any knowledge of that part of the contest. By those actions it appeared they did not want to deal with the aftermath. Were they not willing to stand up for their decisions publicly? Something done they would not want to be held accountable for? Yes, supposition, I know, but see how it looks? If the judges are true to their convictions of what they chose to be winners, why not stick around? Explain the reasoning? Why one was chosen over another… I’ve had entrants who entered two models in the same category in my shows want to know why the one they thought was better was judged less than the one we chose. It goes to show that the builder often does not use the same criteria the judges do for comparison. That is good info to impart to the contestants don’t you think? I think if there was more of that “clean-up†and “stand-up†by the judges after the awards, there would be less negativity among the entrants who feel slighted. And maybe a few improvements in everyone’s skills to boot… (Anyone who has attended one of my shows should know most if not all the judges hang around until the end for just those reasons.)

Many good points brought up here. Some of the things that I would like to see more often have been touched on, better quality of judges, and consistency of judging through out the show, ethics. As for things I’d like to see more of or changed in some cases… How about judges who don’t vanish once the judging is done and the awards are presented? Many builders want to know why they placed where they did. (How often have we heard the chatter of builders thinking their model was better than the one that won?) Wouldn’t it be nice if they could be provided with the thought process that rendered the outcome from the actual judges who made the call? If the model was not as good as the competition, maybe the builder would like to know what to improve? I know of many builders who use contests to learn from the competition, and the judges. It would make for a much better event if the entrants were able to find out why, from the judges who made the decisions, why they were awarded (or maybe not) what they got. When the judges are not available for questions after the show, it raises some accountability issues. Especially if it looks like a “Good Ole Boy Deal†had been played out. I have no problem with the club members or show promoters entering in a show, in fact it would benefit the show to tap into as much expertise as possible. But no one should EVER judge a class or even offer opinions when they have a model in the category. Also, if the judging room is to be closed during the judging, try to not have it be closed for too long, especially where the venue does not offer much in the way of entertainment. Yes, the vendor room is a great time to burn time and money, but after a few passes though it looses its entertainment factor. As far as NNL’s having awards, to me it seems counter to the original idea. Once an awards system is introduced to an ostensibly non-competitive arena, it becomes a contest, not an NNL. To address Junior classes with too nicely finished models by 6 year old kids who don’t know anything about the subject, kit, techniques, (“Daddy, what color did you paint this…?†“What kind of car is this?â€). Note to these parents: You building a model for the kid does not earn either one of you a legitimate award, but it does steal one away from a kid who did their own work. Well done cheaters, great lesson and ethics to instill in your kids. Shame on you! Is an ill gotten little plastic trophy worth all the deception? And the Hooter’s girls…, I prefer my models made of plastic and aluminum, so they should fit right in… to some degree. But I would not be allowed to bring one home even if I won her fair and square.

Today I saw on the road (near JWA) a GMC panel of what sure appeared to be a brother to this. I know I'm off topic a bit considering the direction of the thread, but I thought it was very ironic due to the timing, hopefully it will be considered worth sharing. One thing that struck me was how small it seemed in relation to the size the kit gives me of what it would be like. Not a scale issue, just my perception, then again I was in a big Sprinter van... This one even had a few speed equipment stickers on the rear windows and was running the stock appearing wheels/tires. Very vinage looking. Of course I did not take pictures, again ironic since I was testing a camera system in the van... Hmmm something to check for tomorrow... And hey Jairus, nice decal work!

Little by little I am making progress on this project. Many parts and pieces are being worked on, but these are the first (only) completed sub-assemblies I have been able to get done since the last time I posted anything on this. I still maintain it is a nice kit, I really wish I could dedicate more time to it, as it is an enjoyable kit. Just OOB, a little shadowing with washes and dry brushing of parts that will be mostly out of sight once the car is completed. Colors are Tamiya, both lacquers and acrylics. The calipers and rotor faces were sprayed, the hubs and details brush painted (didn't feel like masking...) More when it happens...

Oven cleaner is my first choice. It is the most economical and removes everything down to the plastic. Only use the “nasty†stuff, the low odor brands do not work well, and do use plenty of ventilation, and the aforementioned gloves…

Hey, that site at the link to the Deekshoonaree mis-spelled Deekshoonaree!

Yeah! What he said! Harrumph!

Sorry, just another unrestrained sporadic repercussion from my existence of yesteryear as an oversized garrulous school marm…(?) Ironic original title of this thread considering its current tangent, is it not?

I don’t have that exact set, but I have made several different companies offerings. One thing most have in common is the general order of “stacking†the parts as follows: The “bottom†or inside rim (the one that faces the wheel well) receives the heavier of the PE spoke set, (the one with the most spokes). A spacer or spindle goes in the center of that. Make note that the part of that spindle that will receive the knock-off must be pointing upward (outward). The finer PE spoke set goes on top of that. Many sets have “keys†or slots or some other device to help orient the two PE spoke sets to each other. You need to pay attention so all the wheel’s spokes are aligned the same or they won’t share the look. The outer rim goes on top of all the previously stacked parts to make a sandwich. The knock-off is the final touch, but I prefer to install that part after assembling the tire and rim together. Hope that helps…

Contadictively?

Why thank you Harry, very kind of you to say. I like your articulate style and I accept the compliment for the most part. But I’m not 100% sure “effusive†is correct in this case, certainly not the esoteric interpretation of “a large gushing femaleâ€. I’ve been called worse, but at least never an antitermilogicalexactatudinarian.

I'll try to keep this short for those of you who have thus wise attention spans. One point I left out but was touched on subsequently is the dry time of decals before clear coating. 24 hours is usually suitable, but a minimum of 3-4 days is preferred. Why? Sometimes what appear to be fully dry decals can have moisture trapped under the decal. These areas may not manifest themselves as bubbles, but the lack of adhesion can allow the decals to be "attacked" by the clear since there is no support under those spots. What you get is seemingly random damage. By letting them dry longer, the moisture has a better chance of evaporating out. So, it would seem even with more than a few sentences earlier, I did not provide all the pertinent info to the query. Do we really want to pare down the info requested by one for a few others who probably won't read or use it? No, I don't think so. Maybe if we took the time to read and learn and applied that philosophy to our building there would be a few more improved models and satisfied modelers? That should be a sufficiently long enough post to deter the non-interested viewers… Yes, there is some sarcasm in there too… Enjoy!

Are you asking or stating a fact Nick…? Usually I do this with paint and my fine airbrush; a very light “splatteringâ€. If you want to also put the build up of rubber into the wheel wells, it is a bit coarser and chunky and can be made by blotting thick paint into the wheel well with an old brush or piece of open cell foam. SMS Faux Fabrix is a great product for this as it has a bit more body or texture than regular paint (which can also be used). It can be sprayed into your airbrush cup, (or bottle) and if need be thinned with a little lacquer thinner. You can also tint it with a bit of brown & gray (enamel or lacquer, not acrylic) paint to look more like rubber.

If you clear coat your Alps decals with the same clear you are going to clear the model with there will not be any problems with the clear eating the decals. Tamiya TS-13 clear can be used, and if you mess up the decal by putting it on too wet, you can make another decal without risking the model. You can also use Future for both clearing the decal and the model, but Future likes to run easily. At least it can be removed with Windex. David makes some very good points, dive in and teach yourself some new tricks, it really is not as intimidating as you seem to have convinced yourself it is. You will have to find out what works for you. Not everyone get s the same results from the same procedures and products. But sharing those results, while it may sound like there is some contradiction, is how we learn. And there are many variables with each product and technique so it is inevitable there will be more than one “right†way to do many things. I know there are things I do that are considered “wrong†by other builders but they work for me. You’ll find out what works for you by experimenting and practice, there is no one right way to do it all. Oh yeah, once you figure something out, sometimes it still won’t work every time… Good luck.

Yes, I agree it is a great kit and I too enjoyed building mine. Nice work.

Well, it's about time. One of my favorite F1 cars. That is great news!

Nice and clean! I agree, fun, fun, fun.

Thanks! It's really not that small, at least as far as most 1/43 models go. And to be fair, it is rather simple too. I think the wheels make it look more model than the toy it is/was. Road Champs line, came in a two-pack with a late 90's S-10.

Just a quick die-cast redo. About 1/43rd scale. Made new wheels. Tamiya colors layered to make the green, decals from my Hot Wheels sheet for flames and taillights.

This is the part of growing old I hate, (and it sadly is only going to continue to accelerate as we all age), seeing the most talented builders pass on and take a bit of this hobby with them forever. Never met the man in person, only knew of him and was duly impressed with his work and humbled by his anti-competition ethic. We all could learn something from life of Ivan. Today I feel I’ve lost a little piece of my modeling soul, as has our hobby. R.I.P. and Godspeed Mr. Steppenik

I may have a cold style of technical writing, but please don’t misinterpret my “just the facts†style as intentionally being mean or derisive, it is not my intent. Now on with the show. (See, not sure I do “funny†as well…) I find it ironic Dave that you expend as much effort as you do to try to ignore the simply worded questions about things you bragged so heartily about creating only a week ago. Man, if I made all that stuff, I’d want legitimate credit for it. You try to twist the issues of the legitimate question asking forum members into it sounding like they are taking the hobby that you have bragged about inventing or introducing so many things to, too seriously. Maybe it is that blind perspective to see only what you want to see and maybe want others to see that allows you to believe the claims you made to the point we have reached today? You make it sound by default that there is some meanness directed at you. Not at all, just a call for you to answer questions raised by your claims. If it was a case of exaggeration and hyperbole getting out of control, own up to it, otherwise it comes off simply as dishonest braggadocio. Is just asking that being mean? Is asking for the truth of what someone stated as fact mean or rude? You could have more easily, and in less words, addressed those questions than try to use misdirecting responses (as if most people following this thread don’t know what transpired) and comments of how it is not a serious pastime for you. C’mon! You say there is too much attitude? I guess if anyone, you should know… Is that mean? You said you enjoyed boasting. You tell us to lighten up when the heat is now too hot for you, not us. You lit the fuse when you brazenly boasted about your scratchbuilding accomplishments, and the chrome system you invented (complete with inventing the airbrush for it). But when we simply ask for an explanation we become the bad guys and are now playing too rough. So now you tell us that you’re done here, the squirrel is officially dead. You can’t yell fire and not expect to be held accountable. Really, the squirrel ain’t dead until the Treehugger sings, i.e. explains his claims of inventing these products and tools and shows us how to scratchbuild a part with mold lines & sink marks under a vacuum-metalized finish. Or owns up to the reality many of us suspect. We’re not going anywhere Dave… Please enlighten us. Why are you unwilling to answer these questions “teacher� Seems to me your method of teaching is more akin to preaching; without sustainable facts or stories that fully reconcile. Are we to just trust you on blind faith that what you claim you did you actually did? Normally not an issue, unless one steps over a line with his claims. I for one don’t buy it and as I mentioned before. I think you know you have been caught with your hand in the proverbial cookie jar and for whatever reason; it seems you’d rather cling to whatever it is you think you have with your colorful bragging instead of honestly answering a few over due and clearly asked questions. Is that being mean? Was there a flame in there? I see more unanswered QUESTIONS than anything… Consider it “dead†and go away if you choose to. Seems a bit cowardly, not what I would expect from someone as full of vigor as seemed just last week and the preceding months. But it won’t resolve the issue, or answer the questions. Only you can do that. But we can keep on asking… And again, we’re not going anywhere…

You all just had to know I’d have to offer an opinion. Let me break this down and respond to Dave’s individual quotes so my viewpoints can be taken in clearly… Watch carefully, this is done without the use of any flames. (But sarcasm may be present…) “Won't post anything tutorial on this for a while as I think it takes time for dust and feelings to settle.” Not sure why any dust must settle to finish the tutorial that was offered. Heck I even pitched in to try to provide useable information on the subject while the dust was still thick in the air… I even answered questions posed on the subject that were directed at me. “Complaints will be ignored like the last time - I DON'T ANSWER COMPLAINTS IT'S JUST PLASTIC AND A HOBBY.” You say complaints will be ignored. That is acceptable, but what about QUESTIONS? I (and others) asked QUESTIONS not complaints. Please do not try to rewrite the history of the event in an attempt to change the tone. Will QUESTIONS continue to be ignored also as you chose to do when several QUESTIONS were asked of you to provide explain your claims? And if it’s just plastic and a hobby I’m having a hard time understanding why it is so important for you to brag it about it so much. As I mentioned before, I am sure it is much more to you than what you are saying about it now. Just review your own previous posts! “When I post a topic, it's not because I think I'm the best builder out there, or the best at any given discipline. Lots of builders on this forum are just as good or better than me, it's just not everyone shares how to do it, especially for the new builders, and I enjoy sharing.” I never intimated that you claimed to be the best builder, nor did I comment negatively on the quality of your workmanship. I did however request that you answer questions that arose when you made other claims of your accomplishments that seem to be a case of gilding the lily or in some cases even more egregious and outrageous. ”Anyone who wants to do anything bad enough, will find what they need to do it, AND THEN I'LL SHOW YOU SOME WAYS TO ACCOMPLISH THAT.” Yes, again, that is part of the frustrations expressed by many here, you opened your “tutorial” by saying you’d show us how to do something, and then failed to follow through. Boasting and being proud are two different things. I for one am very proud of my accomplishments, but I don’t boast about them, certainly not in every post and absolutely not to the grand level that you often do. It is crass and obnoxious and it rubs many people who do not say anything the wrong way. It is your God given right to be rude and boastful, but it is also my God given right to dislike it and share my opinion too. Oh yeah, I back up what I say (you know, answer questions, sometimes even comments for that matter) when asked to define or clarify my comments. ”I THINK BECAUSE WE ARE MEN, AND WERE MADE ARROGANT TO A CERTAIN DEGREE, AND THAT WE SHOULD DISPLAY AND ENJOY THAT MASCULINE CHARACTER TRAIGHT PROUDLY” It is your right to voice your own opinion, but with a perspective like that, you should not be surprised when it polarizes people. And just out of curiosity, is a traight like a taint? What is it? What is it close to? Any coincidence they sound so similar? I still would like you to answer the questions I, (and some others), asked regarding the claims you put forth in the original Leather Covered Interior thread. One would think a spiritual man as you would relish the chance to show the truth of the things he stated as facts. Is deflection and refusal to answer the questions (not complaints as you are trying to claim they were) an ethical thing to do if the claims are true? Rhetorical question. But the answer is: No, it’s not even ethical if the claims were untrue. So Dave, how about it? Please, why not answer the questions and put this all behind us?

Careful now, it screws only together, I can put still your oh so favorite Mazda wheels on it... But really, shouldn't they be put on a '70 Mustang? (Still an inside joke...)

A little diversion from a more serious project... 8 colors of blue, mostly decanted Tamiya TS, and some HOK Candy Cobalt. I cut a few masks to start, and put down about three of the blues, then without the masks over laid several colors free hand to "fire it up". My BMF went all crackly, so I had to brush paint the window trim. I did shave the drip rails and was glad by the time I realized I had no BMF to use. Wheels & tires were donated by a friend, knock-offs from the parts box. The rest is O-O-B Revell...

I would like to see the application device you invented to apply this media. Did you invent the match, or just fire in general? How long does it take to dry? Do you need a special respirator? Did you invent one? How did you do the chrome on the wheel? It looks smoother than your grandmother’s trailer hitch ball. No gravel at all that I can see. You David’s sure know how to do tutorials!