Scale-Master

I would like to see the application device you invented to apply this media. Did you invent the match, or just fire in general? How long does it take to dry? Do you need a special respirator? Did you invent one? How did you do the chrome on the wheel? It looks smoother than your grandmother’s trailer hitch ball. No gravel at all that I can see. You David’s sure know how to do tutorials!

But we still haven’t heard from the topic starter… He hasn’t finished teaching his methods… He hasn’t answered the “students†questions… How can you say it has jumped the shark? Enquiring minds want to know! And I do have to agree with you Michael, about the creep factor now that you mention it.

Looks like I am a slow typer, but I do multi-task… And in my defense, the site is running really slow on my end.

Piping can easily be created with the vinyl tubing that comes in Tamiya 1/12 scale motorcycle and F1 kits (and yes in Super 7 kits too). I think Detail Master and other aftermarket companies also offer it. Soft wire inserted into the tubing can make it more manageable too. The wire can be found in the floral arrangement section at Michaels. Some people use just wire, but I prefer the softer look of the tubing. You’ll have to mix paint to match or compliment the material/leather. I find it easier to paint after application. Just cement it to the seams. A ¼ to a ½ inch at a time and let it dry. Straight runs (like across the top of a bench seat) can often be adhered in one shot. I like the RC560 canopy adhesive for this. Sorry I have no photos to help illustrate what I am describing; hopefully my wording is clear enough. As for stitching, I make them using custom made decals. Examples can be seen on my Blue Super 7, (steering wheel and seat belts) but again I have to apologize for not being able to post pictures here, but they are floating around cyber-world. And I have no easy way to explain how it that process is done, plus it uses equipment not in the arsenal of most builders. No, I did not invent the equipment. (Darn sarcasm font is not working…) But I am a professional decal artist, (Scale-Master Decals anyone, anyone…Bueller?) and that does provide me with a few perks. Hey, one out of two questions answered isn’t too bad, and I offered a legitimate reason for not providing info. Was not difficult at all. And you have every right to question my claim (statement of fact) of creating the art for many decals that come in major model company’s production kits…

Why am I not allowed the same rights to ask Dave to simply to clarify his statements as he was afforded when he made them? This is an open forum. I did not swear, or “beat up on him†and as uncomfortable as what I wrote maybe for some to digest, it is not dishonest or misleading. I dare say in my opinion what Dave posted is both. Why are we deemed by you to “have a problem†if someone is being less than honest and we simply ask for clarification, you know, proof? What is the reason for all the negativity directed at those who only ask for something to be explained? The only flaming is from people who have chosen to insert themselves into the discussion without offering anything constructive. I have not flamed Dave. Apparently those who are taking issue with Dave being asked to show us what he claims he has done are having problems comprehending my questions and comments and it the spirit in which they are being presented. Let me be a little clearer. We all have opinions. I don’t care how much anyone may disagree, but my opinion is just that, not an issue to be deemed right or wrong, it’s just my point of view, just like yours. So being offensive or name calling does nothing but cloud the issues. If I say “I scratch-built the wheels on my modelâ€, that is stated as a fact. Call me on it you don’t believe me. It becomes my responsibility to present proof. Not a reason to attack the person(s) making the observation or posing the question. If I say “I invented spray cansâ€, that also is stated as a fact. Call me on it you don’t believe me. Obviously I did not invent spray cans and so I would not be able to back it up. And I do believe a statement like that by anyone (except maybe David Susan) would elicit a response of disbelief from the members of the forum, as it should. But again that does not mean it is open season to demean the person(s) asking for proof of the original claim. Nor does it mean it is OK to use swearing towards anyone even if the are being dishonest. I do recall clearly stating that I and others have quietly not said anything for quite sometime, but come on, Dave opened the door, and he started the topic! All I asked was for him to back up what he said. And I still would like him to do so. Is that tearing him down? Is that bashing his work or talent? Absolutely not. And to intimate otherwise is just plain dishonest or ignorance. You choose which fits. It is not a case of disagreeing with what he has to show, it is case of asking him to back up his claims of what he said he did. How many times does that have to be stated? And really, the person he is “trying to make happy†is himself. And there is nothing wrong with that. But that does not grant him the right to state falsehoods either, at least without the possibility of someone calling him on it. What does the speed at which one types have to do with the issue? Please elaborate on that. And when you do respond, please make use of the spell check feature, if you “acnâ€. Again, asking for answers is not tearing someone down, but from the tone of your posts it seems you have no problem blindly supporting your friend at the expense of the reality of the situation. And George 53, why are you apologizing to Dave? Just seems odd. And if being our being honest is going to make you loose respect for us, then I for one don’t need your kind of respect. How many awards I or anyone else has won compared to anyone else is irrelevant. I don’t measure my worth or skill level by the awards I’ve earned, but since you seem to attribute the amount of awards to some sort of class, do some research about my track record before you shoot your mouth off and try to put me down. You may also want to do some research and see how many How-to’s online and in our host’s magazine I have done. Care to share your credentials? Your ignorance speaks volumes. (This is opinion folks, not a flame. See my points above please. We are allowed opinions, hence George 53’s rant…) And as for thinning out leather. Believe it or not, I have some experience on this issue, but I did not invent the technique. I figured it out by trial and error, as most people do using common sense. Cut a much larger piece than you’ll need and tape it down to a smooth hard surface, I prefer glass, but a table top will work too. I like duct tape. Secure one edge and then stretch and secure the opposite edge. Do the same thing for the other two edges. Smooth and taut with no wrinkles is the goal. Using a new razor blade, drag it with the grain at about a 45 degree angle. Scrape the leather, don’t try to shave it. Try to uniformly remove material, not just in the center. After some progress, untape and check, repeat the process if needed. Much like sanding or polishing. To apply your leather to the part(s) I prefer to use garment hemming tape for adhesion. You can get it at any fabric store. Jo-Ann’s is where I got mine. I supplement the tape with CA around the edges and inside, but use caution as it can soak through and discolor the material. I don’t use it on 1/24 scale seats, to me it is generally best suited for large scale models. Works for me… But build it for you… Oh, if anyone would like some tips for making patterns, just ask…

To be honest Dave, and since you asked, yes some of us apparently are tired of your self promoting antics without any true documentation to back them up. You say you got a hate PM from "one of us guys". Number one, who are you lumping me in with? Number two, doesn't something strike you as odd that more than one person has thrown the B.S. flag about your grand claims, your integrity/honesty as it were? Number three, I don't see you backing up anything, just sarcastically commenting. A common sign of someone who has been caught with their hand in the proverbial cookie jar. Dave, I think you have been outed and you know it. But I also suspect you're not going to own up to it. If I were in your place and the claims were true, I'd back it up. Not cry "oh it's only a hobby". In just about every one of your previous posts you clearly show us that you take this hobby far more serious than your last comments would have us believe. Why else would you ostensibly live on this board reposting the same pictures over and over? Waiting and hanging on every response? Responding in amazingly quick time to anything you see as a chance to brag about yourself and what you've accomplished. Those of us who see the flaws in your statements that defy what we know to be the standards of the industry, (like of what you say you have scratchbuilt) have politely declined to comment. But enough is enough. I have seen your models in person and spoken to you too. Don't take this as bashing, (although I am confident your fans will take it as such)it is simply being honest. I doubt you recall even talking to me, the conversation was pretty much one way, all about you and only you and your "inventions" of products and hardware that have been in the mainstream hobbyists realm for decades. I had to laugh in one instance when a patron of the GSL was reading my "How I built this" book for my Super 7 and you assumed he was looking at your diecast green Ford (you know the one with the "flying" red seatbelts) that was to the right of it. You swooped in to hawk your model, talk it up, as you did with anyone who stopped near any of your entries. The guy looked at you and shook his head and walked away. Nice job. I'm sure that guy felt really comfortable. I guess it wasn't important to you that he wasn't interested or may have only wanted to enjoy the show at his pace. It is bad form to openly brag about your model like that at a contest. I don't care who does it, it's crass and tacky at best. If your model is worthy, the people who want to know about it will find you. And since you enjoy bragging here about how many awards you have won with your models, maybe you'd like own up to me beating you in every class you entered in that I also entered in at GSL. Does it make me "better"? Hell no, and that is the point. But I am not the one claiming a resting spot on my laurels as you are. I do have significant credentials, not that I need to share them with most of my posts to show my work for what it is. Getting into a pissing contest about what we've accomplished in the industry is not going to serve the greater good of the hobby. And an award, at best, only means you were better than the others that showed up that one day. I'm not arrogant enough to think I am the best, let alone even one of top of many many builders even with what I have earned. And to throw a red herring in about something that happened at the 1962 Winternationals. Irrelevant. Deflection. Own up man, answer the questions posed. You mustered the energy to respond, how about responding to the issues at hand? Now, please explain these claims you have repeatedly made on this open forum. You have the right to make these claims just as I and all the other members have the right to politely ask you to back it up with facts. Prove me wrong about how the taillights that came in my kit with the exact same sink markings and mold lines under the chrome came to be scratchbuilt by you on your model? As you say :"If someone is afraid to share their "Secrets", then to me they probably have a pretty shallow sense of their own skills and abilities". Yep, gotta say you must be speaking from deep inside of what you know. I suspect you will cry foul and or try to joke your way out of telling us the truth or otherwise providing an explanation for the issues I am asking you to clarify and you'll hope that the guys who like your stuff come to your defense. And by the way, I think it is great so many people like your stuff, the more people are inspired the more people will build. And you may note that I am not saying I didn't like your stuff. Be fair. And to be clear I have met Dave, I have seen his his work in person and I can build. Do a little research before you shoot the messenger. And for God's sake don't spew that jealousy line to me. And if you really, with an open mind, read what I wrote, the issue is not the quality of the building, it is the over the top claims of how he did it and the fact that he won't share as he preaches we all should. I have not attacked his talent. I don't think it is tasteful to constantly tell us how great your stuff is Dave, it is crass; but then be a full blown hypocrite when asked to share your methods? That is the issue. Have a wonderful day and enlighten us if you can, you know, put your money where you mouth is. Or hide behind jokes if you can't bring yourself to be an adult and come clean instead of hiding behind some well meaning fans doing your bidding and ranting because they are misunderstanding the issues I have set forth. I'm really quite sure you won't pony up with a legitimate explanation. PLEASE prove me wrong.

Wowsers Dave, It appears this topic has morphed partly into a chrome paint thread. Please allow me to join in with some of my observations… I saw the 350Z you had painted with your chrome at the GSL and you told me you invented the system as well as an airbrush to apply it. Honestly, Karmodeler2s description while arguably a tad on the harsh side is still a rather accurate assessment of what I saw too. Certainly it was not as good as the existing standard mainstream mediums today such as Alclad and Alsa. Photos can hide a lot of flaws; my eyesight saw it for what it was. Maybe you have refined it, if so good for you, and maybe the modeling community as a whole? You made it sound like it was something you were going to sell. Are you? You speak of sharing your vast knowledge, but if you are not going to sell it, why not share with us how you do it? You say you have perfected your painting system, this should be as easy to explain to us with out us having learn by trial and error. If you are planning to sell it, protect your “secretâ€, but don’t dangle it in front of everyone and withhold it from the modeling community. To quote you: “To me sharing is something we should all do to help each other. If someone is afraid to share their "Secrets", then to me they probably have a pretty shallow sense of their own skills and abilities - SAD.†That is Ironic. I was also wondering about your term of “inventing†an airbrush to apply it. Is it really accurate to say that? If it was me, I’d share my invention with the community, again unless I was planning to market it. Is that the case? You use grand terms for what you do, like “scratchbuilding†for parts I can clearly see are production kit parts. Both because I recognize what kit they are from and the tell tale mold lines and sink marks no one would ever intentionally “scatchbuild†into a part. So “inventing†an airbrush just seemed to me to be your brand of over the top hyperbole too. But it seems to me if you have this system for chroming parts it would make sense to rework vacuum metalized kit parts and rechrome them before claiming they were scratchbuilt. Not honest, but at least it would a little closer to believable. But referring to kit parts, even if they came from a different kit, or are modified as “scratchbuilt†is patently dishonest and an insult to all of us who actually do scratchbuild. As in from scratch, you know raw materials… Now I’ll go back to building my out of the box build that I will proudly claim as simply out of the box…

Looked great going together, looks awesome now. Take a bow Master Modeler!

The radiators and ducts were done a few weeks ago, but there has not been much sunshine to shoot them in until recently. I made the decals for the Calsonic lettering, (had a problem with the ones in the kit cracking), a little wash brought out the depth, and the bright silver plumbing was brush painted using a Tamiya Mini 4WD paint pen's paint mixed with mineral spirts. Not as bright as sprayed Alclad or Alsa chrome paint maybe, but certaily bright and very easy to work with. And yes, it does dry fully in a few hours. The trans/rear suspension/engine assembly is growing too. ScaleMotorSports decals were used for the shock arms, fronts were done at the same time as the rears for continuity. The injectors are almost done too. SMS C/F decals on the airbox base. That's all I have to show for now...

Well, since you asked, I am one to say they did not sponsor him. Those sponsors came from one of the NASCAR decal sheets ironically I drew the artwork for, the Labonte Pontiac. And I know they were not on the real drivers suit of the Mobil 1 Porsche. Do a little research if you want the facts. There is no problem building fantasy or fiction, but don't try to pass it off as reality. (I am aware Dave did not try to pass the driver decalling off as accurate.)

Just curious, why does the driver have the NASCAR Aero wheel, Interstate Batteries and MBNA decals on it if you were matching the exterior or replicating the Mobil 1 driver? Seems that with your skills of painting you might have opted to adorn him with series correct sponsors…

Anyone know what this is? Says? It is on all of the 79,80, & 81 numbered Red White and Blue C5s he raced at Limerock. Sorry for the size, it's the best/largest one I could find.

If you brush a thin coat of Future on the area you are going to apply the decals to, and let it fully dry, the decal will adhere to the tire better. Once the decal is completely dry, knock the sheen down with a light application of Dullcote. And avoid stacking them or any sidewall decalled tires...

Wow, again! Another post that had me rolling on the floor due to rediculosity. I’ll refrain from identifying the post or poster, but my guess is those who witnessed the thread that apparently spawned this one know what I’m talking about. Someone needs either a time out or a reality check. Now, back to building!

Thanks for the kind words. This is the Tamiya 1/12 kit, original issue from 1992.

The front wing end plates are finished. The C/F is ScaleMotorSports Hi-Def decal. I planned to use only Tamiya paints for the body exterior. (TS-26 for the White.) Unfortunately even though I “snuck up†with very light coats of clear (TS-13) over the decals, when the third coat was drying, the Goodyear decals cracked up. The odd part is that they came apart several hours after the application, but I had set the parts out to dry in the sun, possibly the reason for the cracking. I created a new set of Goodyear decals and had better luck with the clear, but I did not put them in the sun to dry this time either. The wing adjustment holes were drilled out, but otherwise these parts are just the way they come in the kit.

I started this kit about 2-3 months ago (Sept/Oct 09), but with other obligations it has progressed somewhat slowly. While I have a handful of sub-assemblies in progress, including the body, these are just the first to be far enough along to show anything of tangible progress. The kit is being built straight out of the box and will represent the car as it was at the German GP. The only addition is decals, mostly in the form of composite patterns. The headers were cleaned up and painted, including shading, as individual pieces, then assembled and the seams addressed and blended. Tamiya lacquers (base color) and acrylics (shading/staining) were used. The airbox is covered with mostly ScaleMotorSport C/F decals. Some additional shading was done with Tamiya Smoke. The transmission color was mixed per the instructions with acrylics. However, the engine block was shot with a very dark gray instead of black. It will be "adjusted" as the build progresses. More as it grows...

I think I can be of help here... While the artwork is created by Scale-Master Decals, different vendors (print houses) are used to print (manufacture) the Scale-Master decals you get in the kits and also sold as aftermarket products, with and without Invisa-Clear. Invisa-Clear is a process that yields the least amount of net clear around the individual images. Sometimes the printer'€s company name is included on the sheet, (Cartograf, Champion, MicroScale... ). Often it is not, as in the case of many kit manufacturers, as they will just put their info on. (It will say "€Printed By"€ next to the printer'€s logo or name and is not to be confused with the design of the art images.) Many modelers have built kits containing Scale-Master decals without being aware that they have since not all sheets have all related info and logos printed on the sheets. We don't have a website, but are there any specific questions can I answer for you?

Tamiya kit, pretty much out of the box, except for the wheels. Used the Euro version parts, but also added the U.S. marker lights. (People do almost everything to import/tuner cars out here...) It's also lowered a little bit. Telephonica Blue overcoated with TS-13 clear, all rattle can. The interior has Scale-Master decals for the upholstery graphics and cam cover. SMS decals for the C/F.

That looks like ######, and I mean that in the nicest possible way. Excellent technique. You have the touch. I wonder why real cars don't look as cool as your model when they rust out like that.

Thanks everyone! As you can see, I am not afraid to use all the colors in the crayon box... Yes, it is the Revell snap kit. Overall it fits very well, (goes together in the dark). There are a few sink marks on the body, but they were sanded out when I took off the mold lines and I didn't have to use any putty. It's not perfect, but it was a fun build. I do recommend it for a relaxing build, great kit if you approach it as a slammer. I was originally drawn to the wheels, but the set in mine were not as crisp as I hoped, it may just have been the one I got (a plating issue) or it could have been in the actual molding. Without stripping the chrome I can't make that call. It comes with some pretty nice stickers too, if you trim them they look quite nice, like in the rear quarter trim. But they won't conform to the Bel Air lettering, so shave the lettering if you want to use the stickers. That is why I went with the vinyl and now it's a '57 Chevy Huntington... The stickers on the seats are from the kit. Dresses it up real quick.

A quick build kit, used HOK Tangelo over a red base and the lower accent color is a warm cream/pale yellow mixed from Testors enamels. I went with a gunmetal instead of chrome for most of the trim to give it a meaner look. Some decals from a sheet I did for the '07 IPMS Nationals, and a vibrant spash of color from some refective yellow vinyl in the rear q-panel trim. I did shave a few items from the body, but besides that and the decals, it's what came in the box... - Mark

Needed a fun project that could be finished over the weekend. Stumbled across a re-release of the old Wierd-Oh's kit this after finishing the last Tiki Hut and was still in the mood for playing with textures, washes, and drybrushing. Built straight out of the box, it was just the ticket for enjoying the hobby before diving into a more comprehensive project. Mostly painted with Tamiya acrylics and Testors enamels, lots of brush painting after the basic main colors were sprayed. Distressing the wood was the most fun for me on this build...

A friend and member of this site, who provided some replacement parts for the last Surfite & Tiki Hut I built also gave me the parts for another hut. A little trimming of the front curtains and it will be a business card holder for my office. I went with a bit more of a cartoonish color selection and added a few vintage era west coast drag race track decals. These things are fun to make...

As I have said before, this is one of those under appreciated kits. Deemed by many as just as toy or a simplified little fad car, it really does hold it's own with it's contemporaries of the day as far as detail and fit. Built out of the box using good old Testors yellow for the body. I found some photos that showed a few of the called out colors in the instructions to be different, at least as it is now. I did cut some mylar for the mirror face, but that is as for out side of OOB as I went unless you consider the board... The surfboard received some decal graphics I made. The brand of surfboard is fictional, but does have authentic roots. (Care to comment JimDaddy?) The Tiki Hut was a blast to paint, very little in the way of building there. I have wanted one of these kits since it came out, and finally I have one, I recommend and encourage anyone even just thinking of getting/building one to follow through... - Mark WIP Thread: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.p...&hl=Surfite