Scale-Master

There you go with that attitude again kid, get over yourself, following you around? I thought you wanted constructive criticism, but I guess what you write and what you mean are different. You’re being hypocritical just like in your “trucks†thread. Read what you posted, then read and COMPREHEND what I posted. I responded to your comment. If you post on an open forum, expect to get comments that are honest fact based opinions occasionally. Other people called you on your workmanship and you unload on me when I do the same, even with suggestions on how to do better? I guess your apology was just BS after seeing your response. Just as I figured, you’d rather get false praise than the truth, but as I’ve said, shooting the messenger is not going to improve your skills. “I'm not starting this again†Uhhhhhhmm, I think you crave the attention, and that is why you are doing exactly the opposite of that statement by posting your comment.

“What body work problems? the roof, all of that popped up after it was painted. It is semi correct, give me a break, no ones perfect.†Since you asked…, as stated earlier, your body prep was not done well enough, the paint’s job is not to hide poor workmanship. You are following Mark Taylor’s tutorial right? You say it all popped up after it was painted, who did the prep work? Who did the painting? Who would you say is responsible then? Did it look like this before you did the final assembly? You’d take responsibility if it came out well would you not? If you are happy building to this level, fine, but please don’t ask for help and then try to justify the shortcomings with excuses like no ones perfect. No one is, but some of their builds are darn near because they work for it. Or it popped up after it was painted. You’ll never learn if it is always “something out of your control’s faultâ€. Semi correct is usually not right, i.e. it is wrong. Look at how you can see the deck lid behind the rear spoiler? It is too far forward. Splitting hairs whether it is “WAY†too far or just too far will not make it less worse, better, or correct. Since you posted photos of the car you were inspired by, it is more apparent how far off the model is from the real one. If you had these photos you are using to justify the spoiler is not “WAY†to far back, why didn’t you refer to them or the instructions when assembling the model? You were quick enough to copy and paste the Wiki on Tim Horton, why not use the same amount of energy to look up “BURNISHâ€? I’ll repeat myself, it does not matter how long you work on something, what matters is how it looks.

I’m just glad it wasn’t me…

It doesn’t matter how good the quality of the materials you purchase is, you have to use them properly too. Burnish the edge of the tape down before you paint, and don’t put the paint on so wet that it wants to bleed under the tape. Putting it on straight is another issue. But you are showing some signs of improvement. And the rear spoiler is way too far forward.

You guys crack me up, are you here all week? I can vouch for Steve’s ability to imbibe and not damage the food. But I will also take credit for steering him away from Mr. Daniel’s and toward The Glen. Room temp, nothing added please…

I’d try the tape first, if that does not work, I’d move up to a little lacquer thinner on a paper towel or Q-tip. Stay clear of the wheels though since they are still in the tires, you wouldn’t want to knock off the chrome or paint…

Yes, you are correct! In the right (wrong?) light the tires are blueish. Built it when it was first released. I always meant to build another, must have 3 IMCs and 1 or 2 Lindbergs in my stash...

Yep, telephone wire with the insulation stripped off, and painted after the engine was wired.

I tried to make it one post, had it written that way. (Explains the header on each...) But I could only get six of the pictures to show in preview at a time. I thought I had too many photo links, so I posted this way. Thanks guys, I have even more that are older. I never blew up my models. But I did do a smokey burnout over a Charlie's Angel van. It exploded, good times, good times... And I still have that car I did it with... Hmm,... it makes about 3 times the HP now, wonder what it could do today to an old model...?

These were pulled from my display cases and lightly dusted today. They were properly cleaned about 10 months ago, during my semi annual cleaning of all the models on display... I have decades of builds on display in my showroom. Cougar II Built when I was 14. Engines had to wired, with yellow wire!

These were pulled from my display cases and lightly dusted today. They were properly cleaned about 10 months ago, during my semi annual cleaning of all the models on display... I have decades of builds on display in my showroom. Jo-Han Sox & Martin Cuda done as a Bracket Racer. Built when I was 13-14. That is NOT BMF, I don't think it existed yet. It is thin kitchen foil applied with Micro Metal Foil Adhesive. (My Dad worked at MicroScale at the time. Free stuff Whoo Hoo!) Decals form the old Revell kits. Note the entirely Scratchbuilt hood! .030 styrene sheet actually... But it does have brass pins to hold it on, no clips, PE had not been invented yet... Notice the wrinkle finish I applied to the valve covers. High-tech!

These were pulled from my display cases and lightly dusted today. They were properly cleaned about 10 months ago, during my semi annual cleaning of all the models on display... I have decades of builds on display in my showroom. Bad News Built when I was 12-13. Free hand pin striping! Of course it has ignition wiring. I recall just discovering Flat Aluminum paint.

Mr. Taylor is correct, it was the Predicta. It was dumped in the ivy of his front yard early in the AM, after all, Monogram sponsored the contest and Darryl was a Revell employee. It was Candy Apple Red at that time. Since my Dad worked at Revell at that time too, we went to Darryl’s house that Saturday to check it out. They kept taking it to the gas station to put a few cents in it just to watch the reactions of the attendants and customers. I know one person did the expected over filling of the tank while staring at it… And yes Pete, I agree, that was the greatest award in modern times for sure, and see, I didn’t tell anybody about the Tyrrell “incidentâ€â€¦! But I can still hear it in my head…

Hey, I’m all about building for yourself, read my sig line… But those HID lights are not blue. The have a blue cast when illuminated, but when off, pretty much the same as “regular†lights. Thanks for the explanation. As long as you are happy with it that’s all that matters.

Decals are made to stick to paint, not plastic. As Mark Taylor said, tape - n - pull. You can use a little decal solvent or alcohol to remove the little chips that may hang on without damaging the plastic at all. I'd avoid any "paint" strippers.

I gotta ask why? I mean on a Hot Wheels or a full on custom, OK, but on something that is a believable model/streeter? I just don't get it. What am I missing? I've never seen blue lights, only blue dots, and not on headlights. Please elaborate.

For the most part decals. But then I can make my own... Some could be done with a combination of paint and decals like the Power Wagons, but for the best results, I say decals.

A quart is a near lifetime supply for a modeler. Be careful about two things besides the regular heath precautions: 1-It evaporates almost as fast as liquid cement. Keep the lid on tight. 2-It wants to run like a little girl. Use one or two dry passes. Wait a minute. If it needs more make one or two more passes. Be patient. If you make it look good and shiny while you are spraying, I guarantee it will run. Let it do its job. It may take 10 passes, it may take one. But never more than two between flash times.

Man there is a lot of clean stuff up today, and these are no exception! The white pearl is very clean...

My thoughts exactly.

Clean building, however I really like the dirt on the yellow Ram truck's tires.

Blender is a chemical painting product, (just like Reducer is a chemical painting product). You will likely have to go to an automotive paint supplier. It works on enamels, lacquers and urethanes. I prefer the Dupont brand, but the 4 digit code/part number escapes me at this moment and I am not at my shop. The info and description I provided is enough for a paint shop to identify the product for you. They’ll know what it is…

I don't know if this will help you or not, but it does explain how to blend the edges making a spot repair possible. I posted this mini how-to several months ago: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=12193&st=0&p=94820&hl=Paint%20repair&fromsearch=1&#entry94820

Very interesting. Could it work? Probably. Will it work most of the time? Highly doubtful. As mentioned earlier, it can only work if ALL involved can be impartial. I could see it working with a small group of entrants who are all respectful and truly don't care if they win. But multiply that by the number of categories and the likelihood of ruffled feathers goes up exponentially. Great for a discussion, and thanks for offering it up. But I just don't see it working as planned in reality. And one other point, I know some great builders who have not a clue as to what is the reality of what they build. They may have the skill, but not the historical and mechanical knowledge. So to judge another's model would not work as planned by this scenario.

“I don't know NASCAR and refuse to judge it.†That’s why we have you judge the Lowrider class David… Easy boys, just funnin’