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Everything posted by Scale-Master
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“This is a Miltary owned color and still have the rights to it, The do not even let you have the color code or even the PPG Store here could have the code.†You should have checked the Federal Standard guide (F.S.) for that “military colorâ€. All “military†colors are assigned an F.S. number and the book is readily available to civilians, as it is in the public domain since the military is funded by our tax dollars… Just ask someone who builds airplane models. Testors may even have the color in their military line of paints.
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I find it interesting the one person is offering firsthand experience and sharing his method and results, and another is trying to justify his methods as being the better way by bolstering his claims of experience with second hand knowledge he got from friends and acquaintances. Just a footnote, I have been employed as a “real†automotive painter as well as a model painter. Doing is way more conducive to learning than talking and telling what was heard from someone else. And it is Mark Taylor the one that can build the 24 hour wonders, not me. As for the Matrix, I use MSV-21. California has restrictions on what we can purchase…
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If you were to show a quality finished part that you made of what you were trying to explain, it would go a lot further in the direction of any tutorial. Most builders want to learn tricks and tips to improve their models. Also do some comparisons of what others are doing to see if what you are offering is truly relevant and useful towards improving other’s builds. Keep up the enthusiasm and thanks for sharing.
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I have used the solder with rosin (not resin) core. There is also acid core, it is different. One trick is to soak the lengths of solder you cut for your pipes in hot water; you will have to reheat the water a few times. Add hot water to the solder, don’t nuke it… The heat will soften the rosin, some will drip out. You can force more out with compressed air and thin wire, (depending on how long your pieces are…). Lacquer thinner or carb cleaner helps with the clean up.
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It is my opinion that if you want to learn how to work with urethane's and have the least amount of headaches you should follow David's advice. The points he makes mirror the same experiences I have had, and I have seen his paint/finish work in person. "Dave's way" is one of the many right ways to paint. Just look at his results. Chas's comment amounts to bad mouthing a DuPont competitor's product, instead of accepting someone else has the ability to paint and is willing to properly teach others. Brand loyalty is one thing, ignorant snobbery is another. I know a lot of people who get great results with both PPG and DuPont products. I also use Matrix and PCL clears and DuPont Chroma colors. Snidely portraying a product that looks to be applied with better results (than the product you are using) by someone else is bad form and serves no purpose. Not finishing the paint after it is sprayed is often the difference between being complacent and accepting what was shot, (which is fine if you are happy) and really making a 100 Point finish. Remember, you have to build for yourself... Real car paints look like real car paints when properly applied to models, the only problem is they often look out of scale due to the way they lay down. Cutting and finishing them properly can bring them into scale. Some soft flowing cars can get away with comparatively thick but smooth uncut finishes. But what treatment do the best of the best real cars get after being painted? David's photos really don't do the paint quality justice. That green truck won best paint because it is flawless, I know, I was there. Seriously, no defects. Take a second to think about NO DEFECTS. Honestly, how many absolutely perfect paint jobs has anyone seen? It may look boring, but that just leaves less areas to hide any imperfections. And speaking of those photos, thanks for wearing pants in that last one David! Also follow Ed's advice about the respirators to avoid headaches. You can also add me to the list of lacquer thinner users...
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As a Hot Wheels customizer myself, I can see the work you put into that. It is a tough sell to pull off what you did in a small scale and post it with "full-size" models. You may have fooled some into thinking it is larger than it really is. If so, good job.
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Just quick Hot Wheels as a present for a buddy...
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See Steve... I told you it was an Oberg! (I did answer via PM...) Thanks everyone. Truly a fun build for me. And the front doesn't drag, the shadows however are sharp.
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As far as the sponsorship on this one, specifically the tailgate as requested... I was just following through with a comment I made about building something I thought was humorous a few months ago. It was a by product of conversations on this very forum: A quote from a prolifically posting younger member about his Rockford Files Firebird and the amount of time he claimed to have invested in building it: "and second I have over 800 hours into that car." Reference: http:/e/www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=30718&st=20 And an answer I provided to that same person's request for a towing company name: "I still think Firebird Wrecking is my best offering… Cmon, call 1-800-Hour-Firebird? I may just have to build it…" Reference: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=31554&st=60 Post # 68 http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=31554&st=20 Just noticed, we never did get to see those pictures of those real trucks as offered up in that thread too... The engine is the kit supplied parts with a new intake and some detailing. See provided WIP link in first pot of this thread.
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Very cool vintage work there Dan. So does this mean you are about to start building again?
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No sir, I will not take that ill advice, one should never get involved in a land war in Asia...
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SuperTruck Finished [PICS] May have spanned a couple of months, but it was actually a rather quick build considering actual time investment. But it was fun! No decals for the exterior, just painting. Ghost gray real flames? A few machined details, detail decals from the parts box, seat harnesses made of vinyl and mylar, wheels and tires from some Tamiya leftovers... WIP thread: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=32485
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How to make a nitrous tank
Scale-Master replied to HotRodAlex's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
I'm partial to aluminum. While this was done with a lathe (and a mill for the detail parts) it is a much more stable material to work with. Even in a drill... Just find some pictures of what you want to replicate, figure out what size it should be in scale, and turn away... -
Tamiya offered that RX7 as both curbside and with an R1 turbo engine. It is a favorite kit of mine. The GTR does have an engine, but maybe not in the same sense you may expect from an American kit. Give it a chance as the ones I have seen built look good.
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Would There be any Interest?
Scale-Master replied to Danno's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
I could go for a CanAm, or a GrandAm. -
Scratchbuilding vs. Kitbashing
Scale-Master replied to Harry P.'s topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
Many excellent points have been made in this discussion. Thanks for starting it Harry. I have a little to add too... It has been my observation that many who dismiss quality scratch-building as using the same skill set as assembling a model are unable to execute well rendered scratch-built parts themselves. Anyone can scratch-build, just as anyone can build a kit, but we have all seen a wide variance between the levels of quality different modelers build at whether it be out of the box or something more substantial. Another point was made that if a part was used for a purpose other than its intended use, it can be called a scratch-built part. I disagree in many cases. For example, the Revell 1960 Corvette has a separate windshield wiper motor. But if you turn it on its side, paint it yellow and tan, it becomes a rather convincing Accel Super Coil. No changing of the shape, just using it in a different part of the engine compartment with different paint. I realize that is a specific situation, but it does illustrate another angle of that view. The idea of using a pen cap as an exhaust tip has been around for decades, but is that simple addition and change of use for a piece enough to earn the term scratch-built? I don't think so. But I will accept there are cases when using a part for different than intended use and modifying it may bring it into the realm of being scratch-built. The IPMS rules are about the best around (when they are followed by the judges, which unfortunately they too often are not). Just because they say a scratch-built entry can have kit sourced parts, does not by default make said model automatically truly scratch-built. But imagine finding enough entries of only truly 100% scratch-built models? The rules allow enough latitude to have mostly scratch-built models compete with fully scratch-built models. The "Out-Of-The-Box except" phrase gets me too. It is or it isn't, look at the instructions for that answer. But Factory Stock has nothing to do with OOB, unless you are entering a model of a Factory Stock subject in an OOB category. And I have added "seams" and other manufacturing defects to a few of my scratch-built parts. Not to mess with anyone, but to replicate the real life part. Take a look at a transmission housing casting for example. -
If that is MJ's house, then isn't that MJ's dust? Consider it a gift, no charge. You may have your own dust at home, but that my friend is Beach Dust! While that is one impressive model on so many levels, and one of my favorites, I am not ready to say it is my absolute favorite build of yours. I suggest you post some others (and no the Caterham is not one of the several I am thinking of...) to help me remember and for you to share some of your incredible work with the world. ummm whos MJ ? See name below...
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Thannk. Had a little time and made some good progress this weekend. The chassis is close to being done, the engine and interior are close too.
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Thanks. The blue thing on the wheel, and most of what is that color blue, is padding, standard NASCAR style from the mid 90's.
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I drilled out the kit gauges and put some parts box decals in from the back. The interior is coming along... Floor mats are some pre-flocked paper with adhesive left over from a Pocher build.
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What do you think is most important?
Scale-Master replied to bigmikevee's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
I agree to much of what you wrote and the spirit it was offered, but if you build something that would not work mechanically in the real world, it could be viewed by some as “wrong†if it is intended as a feasible drivable vehicle. That’s not to say you should not build what you want to. Build for yourself, absolutely, and if you don't like the look of aluminum parts, you can skip them. But in your opinion you state "Maybe it's a finish thing. A turned part looks like a turned part no matter what size it is." Much of what I replicate in scale are machined aluminum scaled down versions of machined (often aluminum) real parts. To me they look fine. But not everything is left raw metal either. There are a variety of finishing techniques to take a raw machined piece to a finished replica part. I use everything from abrasives to paints, even acids. You wouldn't use an unfinished resin or plastic part very often on a model, the same holds true for many turned/machined aluminum parts. An unfinished part will look out of place no matter its composition. Some in progress shots of an old build made with a lot of aluminum: -
Just curious, what material is the outside perimeter of the bed “box†made from? Is it wood sandwiched between sheet plastic for example? The pictures don’t tell…
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Raising the top of the windshield looks like a good addition/idea, but if you clean up the edges, like where the burrs are on the lower corners, it will go a long way to making this build look clean overall. Rough edges like that will not be hidden by paint (actually BMF will exacerbate it) and will become a focal point that could take away from the other work you are doing on this one. Your painting on the seatbelts looks like you are improving with the brush... Are you going to repair that chunk taken out of the rim? If you paint the rims orange like your drawing, it will really jump out if you don't. I'm looking forward to seeing you apply the tips and direction Mark Taylor provided in his tutorial for you. This should be a nice step up for you.